Best mountaineering boots for 6000m peaks

I'm headed for Nepal and will be trekking to EBC and climbing Lobuche, so I'm in the market for some good boots. I've already got some good hiking boots and am looking for a good pair of mountaineering boots. I'm just getting into the sport, so could use some guidance.

I understand what everyone says about fit, single vs. double, weight, gaiters, etc. but what I can't get to the bottom of is how warm certain boots will keep my feet.

Basically, what I'm after is what boots have people used in the past in the same sort of climbs (6000m range)? Is something like the Scarpa Mont Blanc Pro GTX warm enough? Or even the Mammut Eisfeld? Or do I need to upgrade to a warmer boot? What about the Koflach Arctis Expe?

I'm based out of Northen Utah and the highest peak I typically hit on the weekends is 10k feet so I have experience with cold but not the kind of cold I'll see at twice that elevation. :)

I'm open to any and all advice that anyone has! Thanks!

Scarpa Phantom 6000 and La Sportiva G2SM would be worth a look.

Boreal Super Latok.

Crazy warm. Fairly light. Extremely durable.

I have some US size 11 to sell ya.
Also, some womans US size 7.5

+1 for Scarpa Phantom 6000 and La Sportiva G2SM would be worth a look.

wide feet = scarpa, skinny feet = sportiva

Jonathan Haws wrote:I'm headed for Nepal and will be trekking to EBC and climbing Lobuche, so I'm in the market for some good boots.

A number of years ago...we hiked the 18k peaks in approach shoes. I'd hate the thought of wearing boots on those scrambles (Kala Pattar, Gokyo Ri).

Used plastic double boots on Island Peak. Only wore them from high camp on summit day. Probably could have gotten by with a less warm boot, but, its what we had at the time. We rented all of our technical gear in Namche.

A friend of mine just got a pair of G2SM, she's usually on the cold side but had no issues during a -25°c outing this weekend, apparently pretty comfortable too, but that always depends on your foot.

G2 SM

I think Sprotiva is trying to move away from the idea that they are a narrow foot fit. The G2s have substantially more room in the forefoot than any other Sportiva that i have ever owned. They fit more like a Scarpa, to me.

^^ +1

I don't have a narrow foot by any means and all new Sportiva shoes fit me very well. I've got the G2 SMs, Batura 2.0s, Nepal Cubes, Trango Cubes, TC Pros, and they all work well with my relatively wider foot.

Does anyone have any experience at these elevations with a single boot rather than a double?

Jonathan Haws wrote:Does anyone have any experience at these elevations with a single boot rather than a double?

When I climbed Elbrus' North Route there was a group a day ahead of our schedule who all climbed on Sportiva Nepals or Scarpa Mont Blancs. They had a 20hr summit day and all had major foot problems - some with suspected frost bite. I have a buddy who climbed a sub-6000m peak in Peru in Baturas and got frostbite. On the other hand, there are people who go climb Island Peak in singles on a normal basis.

Moral of the story: why risk it.

Jonathan Haws wrote:Does anyone have any experience at these elevations with a single boot rather than a double?

I wouldn't want to bring a boot that I couldn't pull out liners to put in my sleeping bag personally. It's ~7oz per foot to run phantom 6000 over the guides. I'd stick with a double.

Chris Ccc wrote: Moral of the story: why risk it.

+1^^. G2s fit my wide foot pretty well and they are super warm. I wore them for a week on Katahdin in 5ºF weather and they were fantastic. Very warm, lightweight and nimble. Great boot.

What type of climbing will you be doing? If you will be static for any amount of time, i.e. belaying and if you value your toes, doubles - no questions asked. If you will be moving with a fair amount of hiking involved, you *might* get by with singles.

But, why risk it? ^^^

Chris Ccc wrote:^^ +1 I don't have a narrow foot by any means and all new Sportiva shoes fit me very well. I've got the G2 SMs, Batura 2.0s, Nepal Cubes, Trango Cubes, TC Pros, and they all work well with my relatively wider foot.

How do you like the G2's vs the Batura 2's?

G2 much warmer other than ability to take out wet liners at night?

Baturas climb nicer?

jdejace wrote: How do you like the G2's vs the Batura 2's? G2 much warmer other than ability to take out wet liners at night? Baturas climb nicer?

The Batura 2.0 are a pain to hike in, not much rocker in the sole, not great ankle support. But they're amazing to climb with.

This is exactly the kind of feedback I was looking for. Thanks everyone!

I like what I read on a blog post somewhere - don't look at the boots as $1000/pair - look at them as $100/toe insurance. :)

Sounds like a double is definitely the way to go. Is there a significant performance difference between something like the Scarpa Phantom/Sportiva G2SM vs the plastics like the Koflachs (aside from weight of course)?

jdejace wrote: How do you like the G2's vs the Batura 2's? G2 much warmer other than ability to take out wet liners at night? Baturas climb nicer?

They are very different boots. The G2s are my go to for multiday climbs, while I reach for the Baturas for more vertically oriented terrain. The G2s aren't sloppy in vertical settings by any means, and much better than the Spantiks, but nowhere nearly as good as the Baturas. The G2s are significantly warmer than the Baturas as well.

You can also easily tighten and loosen the G2s in the middle of a climb which is something that would be super annoying with pretty much any other boot. For example, they are nice in climbing technical routes with long snow climbs involved before any real pitching. I'll keep the boots looser while on snow, and while setting up for the first pitch I'll give the knobs a spin for a tighter fit.

I've never climbed in Baturas, but it is worth noting that I do not feel inhibited at all in my G2SM boots compared to my Salewa single boots. Then again, I don't lead anything that is especially hard!

So it sounds like the Scarpa Phantom 6000 or the La Sportiva G2 SMs are what most people are using for climbs like these. Any other brands I should look at for doubles? I tried on a Scarpa Mont Blanc and a Sportiva Nepal EVO. The Scarpa felt much better on my foot, but not as good as a Mammut Eisfeld.

Thoughts or experience with others?

Thanks again for all the great feedback!

Chris Ccc wrote: They are very different boots. The G2s are my go to for multiday climbs, while I reach for the Baturas for more vertically oriented terrain. The G2s aren't sloppy in vertical settings by any means, and much better than the Spantiks, but nowhere nearly as good as the Baturas. The G2s are significantly warmer than the Baturas as well. You can also easily tighten and loosen the G2s in the middle of a climb which is something that would be super annoying with pretty much any other boot. For example, they are nice in climbing technical routes with long snow climbs involved before any real pitching. I'll keep the boots looser while on snow, and while setting up for the first pitch I'll give the knobs a spin for a tighter fit.

Thanks for that. Do you wear the same size in both?

Jonathan Haws wrote:So it sounds like the Scarpa Phantom 6000 or the La Sportiva G2 SMs are what most people are using for climbs like these. Any other brands I should look at for doubles?

I don't personally own a pair but Lowa boots are well regarded, they make a 6000m model.

^ yes I do

42.5 in the G2SM, Batura 2.0, Nepal Cube GTX, Trango Cube GTX, and Spantik

....I've got a boot problem