New Petzl Removable Bolt
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Saw this on Rope Test Lab, I'm sure coming from Petzl they will be super expensive. $20-$37 a piece for their glue in's. I'll stick with the Climb Tech Legacy bolts and RB's for my purposes. Do you think this is going to be marketed more towards industrial work? What do you see it's climbing application being? |
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20 kN wrote:https://www.petzl.com/NL/en/Sport/New/COEUR-PULSE Looks interesting...I saw these earlier today and though it seems like a kind of cool idea, it looks like the twist lock on the bolt is huge and would make clipping the bolt a pain (especially since the coeur hangers aren't all that big to begin with). I agree with DrRockso, I think I'll stick with the Legacy's for my removable bolts even if they do require a tool (a plus in my opinion). Big bolt head |
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I could see a limited application where they would be installed on structures, (buildings, bridges, natural walls...) where climbing is permitted under controlled and limited situations, say for yearly comps. |
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Unless there is other information which I can´t see it is only certified as an industrial anchor point. |
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While I've never owned or used them, one limitation of the RBs is that they require a 1/2" or larger hole. At one point they had a 3/8 RB IIRC. If Petzl's new product worked in a 3/8" hole, that would be good. But they're metric, so... BZZZT. |
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Still needs a drill |
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Gunkiemike wrote:While I've never owned or used them, one limitation of the RBs is that they require a 1/2" or larger hole. At one point they had a 3/8 RB IIRC. If Petzl's new product worked in a 3/8" hole, that would be good. But they're metric, so... BZZZT.I´ve a couple of the old 3/8" RB´s but the wires are sure a bit fragile, they work o.k in a 10mm hole if you´re careful. Totem got permision to make them when ClimbTech stopped and improved the design a bit but they never went into production. I´ve got a prototype stored away! |
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One concern I see is the bolt itself is 316 SS, but I presume the twist lock mechanism might be aluminum. If so, that's an issue when it comes to corrosion protection. Of course I am just guessing that the lock is aluminum, it might not be. On a note, if the intended function of this bolt is temporary usage, it seems more reasonable that they would not make it out of expensive 316SS and just use carbon steel to cut costs way down. |
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Compared with the manufacturing costs changing from stainless to normal steel would be a drop in the ocean! |
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Jim Titt wrote:Compared with the manufacturing costs changing from stainless to normal steel would be a drop in the ocean! There´s an 8mm version coming as well for cavers.Well other manufacturers dont seem to have a problem making stainless and carbon steel versions of their bolts at a reasonable cost. |
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Looking at a wholesale catalogue for wedge bolts the difference in material costs is probably less than 20c plus the hassle of rolling the bolt flange onto a piece of stainless without damaging the plating. |
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There is 8mm option which seems to be more interesting for routes development: petzl.com/NL/en/Sport/New/P… |
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Bump any word on pricing for these? |
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Petzl says available September. Advertised in Spain for €29.95 ($34.02) for the 8mm one and €35.95 ($40.83) for the 12mm one. Expect US prices to vary!!!! |
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Thanks Jim! M.Hanna |
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And it's out! ONLY $65 each!!! |
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dnoB ekiM wrote: It is reasonable priced. BTW, most likely a team needs two or maybe three of them (8mm, for sure) on the first ascent. The same team would need something like dozen cams which way pricier. |
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Pavel Burov wrote: Do you see the 8mm one available somewhere? Petzl USA says there is not an 8mm version. |
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dnoB ekiM wrote: Had been using it this summer.
I do not live in USA. |
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This actually makes me think about whether bolts such as these will be the future of sport route development. Certainly hole deterioration could be a concern, but overall impact and costs to developers would greatly reduced. Hardware replacement, other than anchors, would also become moot. Carrots are already widely used in Australia, and this could be just the next logical step. |