Basic kit for starting aid climbing
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What are the basic components of a kit I should look to get to start aid climbing? I have a 95% full trad rack so Im looking for Aid only gear add-ons. |
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Cam hooks |
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malt liquor |
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Well, you on the right path. |
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oh and 40 Gu packets and a liter of water. |
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-fifi hook (maybe even an adjustable one) |
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Karsten wrote:Well, you on the right path. Don't forget 2 daily chains either the standard sewn loop style or the adjustable ones.He meant "Daisy" chains. You use them to clip your harness to the piece so you can sit on it, bounce test etc and if the piece pops you don't lose it. You also (if you are serious) should get a big wall harness. Lotsa hanging in it and they are made tougher to handle the wear and stress. You also want Aiders x4 imo (two sets of two), that saves a lot of time. When jugging you clip the extra one to your harness as a back up also though some people are jugging with only one ascender and a gri-gri these days. |
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Thanks Tut, |
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Karsten wrote:4 Aider system (used as 2 sets of 2 aider on each daisy) Pros- very stable, easier to move smoothly (less bouncing of delicate placements), your not screwed if you drop one Cons- can get tangled easily, double the cost, slower in general, free climbing more cumbersome Ideal use-hard aidn00b here looking to start aid climbing and reading everything I can about it... Can you explain why the 4 aider system is more stable? I understand how you move up using 2 aiders, but how do you accomplish that with 4 and why is there less bouncing etc. |
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^ Instead of standing on one ladder in a awkward stance you can spread your legs and get a balanced stance(triangle vs I) |
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BigB wrote:^ Instead of standing on one ladder in a awkward stance you can spread your legs and get a balanced stance(triangle vs I)Totally makes sense. Didn't even consider that. Thanks! |
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atmourad wrote: Totally makes sense. Didn't even consider that. Thanks!Yea, you don't need two to try aid climbing, but, if you spend 3 days on a route 4 make all the difference in the world. Typically you sit on the piece in your harness while you determine the next piece and where its going to go...then you stand up in your aiders to place it. That triangle makes that very balanced, the "I" in one aider makes it pretty delicate and balancy. Also on steep ground the triangle can be used to push you up against your daisy point extending your reach. You can't really do that as remotely efficiently with one. Its strenuous work and 4 is more efficient for long steep routes. Don't underestimate the required stomach muscle and lower back muscle fitness that makes it doable versus epic. If I was aiding short sections on predominantly non-steep mixed-free routes (ie Half Dome) then you can get by with two easily. |
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More biners than you can imagine |
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King Tut wrote: You also (if you are serious) should get a big wall harnessI am kind of serious I want to be able to have some fun but I'm not looking to aid up el cap if that the kind of serious you mean. Im mostly looking to expand my skill set and try out some new styles of climbing. It seems pretty hard to find aid routes here in the Southern Ca area. |
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Daniel T wrote: I am kind of serious I want to be able to have some fun but I'm not looking to aid up el cap if that the kind of serious you mean. Im mostly looking to expand my skill set and try out some new styles of climbing. It seems pretty hard to find aid routes here in the Southern Ca area.If you're in SoCal, Riverside Quarry is a fantastic place to practice your aid (both hammered and clean) with plenty of bolts nearby if you're aiding on a line near a sport route (obviously no nailing if you're near the freeclimbing routes but there's plenty of aid routes there that are nailing routes no here near the sport routes.) bigwall.com/aidguide.html for the deets |
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Daniel T wrote: I am kind of serious I want to be able to have some fun but I'm not looking to aid up el cap if that the kind of serious you mean. Im mostly looking to expand my skill set and try out some new styles of climbing. It seems pretty hard to find aid routes here in the Southern Ca area.It still can take you hour(s) to climb a pitch when you are just starting. But if you have a harness already you can try it out with that. Trust me, discomfort is a huge part of aid climbing. Regular climbing is generally vastly more comfortable if it does challenge your fitness in other ways. |
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Daniel T wrote: I am kind of serious I want to be able to have some fun but I'm not looking to aid up el cap if that the kind of serious you mean. Im mostly looking to expand my skill set and try out some new styles of climbing. It seems pretty hard to find aid routes here in the Southern Ca area.I wouldn't buy a big wall harness until you climb enough aid that you know you need one (because your hips are bleeding when you get done). |
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+1 for the labotomy. |
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2 daisy chains |
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jc5462 wrote:2 daisy chains 4 aiders Fifi hook(s) Fingerless gloves Safety glasses 2 sets go hooks ( talon, grappling hook, cliffhanger, leeper pointed micro, narrow, wide and fragil flake cam hooks) Selection of birdbeaks, peckers and tomahawks Wall hammer Funkness and cleaning sling Selection of heads Small wire brush, punch and dulled chisel with tethers Selection of pitons ( 6-12 knife blades, 10-15 lost arrows, 2 each angles and "Z,s" Micro nut set Offset nuts Tie off loops Scream- aids As many oval carabiners as you can get ( then get some more) Double gear sling Belay seat Haul bag Poop tube Water jugs with slings and covered in duct tape Rolls of tape, tincture of benzoin, nail clippers, Emory board & superglue Comfy boots with stiff sole Durable pants (cathartt with double fronts) Ascenders 2 static ropes Smaller diameter tag line Helmet (if you don't already own) A knowledgeable mentor, willing partners Psych meds, willlingness to endure pain, scars I'm sure I left something out. You can never have enough gear This in addition to standard free/ trad rack!This is a good list except for the following which a beginner shouldn't be getting into: Hooks Beaks, peckers, tomahawks Hammer Heads Punch, chisel Pitons Scream-aids People new to aid climbing should be sticking to clean aid until they get a feel for it, especially if they aren't trying to do big walls like the OP. This means no pitons, hammer, heads, punch, chisel. At the beginner level, hooks aren't necessary and shouldn't be used without extensive instruction from a knowledgeable teacher/guide/mentor. Beginning aid climbers also shouldn't be getting into a situation where they need a screamer or scream-aid. I would also add ballnuts and offset micro nuts to the protection list. And your gonna need a whole lot more than 95% of a rack. More like doubles of most cams, triples of some, multiple sets of nuts in all/most shapes and sizes. Add in large cams (#5,#6) and maybe some big bros if you're desert aiding. |
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Lots of good points above. I felt that I must also inform you of the traditional recommendation provided to all budding aid climbers - You're gonna die. That is all. |