Haute Route Beta
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A friend and I are hoping to do the Haute Route in April without a guide. Since the guide services typically make the hut reservations for clients, I'm looking for some beta on making hut reservations. I know the typical advice is to make reservations as soon as possible. |
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My only advice is to not "piggyback" the guides and their clients. They will be rather frosty towards you at the hut and on the route. Find your own way through the glacier skiing. I have a few old friends who are Euro guides and this ticks most of them off. |
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I have skied the Haute Route multiple times. |
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Thanks Allen. So you would recommend a light down sleeping bag in case we have to sleep on the floor? Also, we're thinking of taking the Verbier route. How straightforward is it to get a conveyance to Verbier after skiing the Val d'Arpette to Champex? Once at Verbier, do you just hit the ticket office and get a one-way lift ticket to go to the Mont Fort hut? |
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Tom Halicki wrote:Thanks Allen. So you would recommend a light down sleeping bag in case we have to sleep on the floor? Also, we're thinking of taking the Verbier route. How straightforward is it to get a conveyance to Verbier after skiing the Val d'Arpette to Champex? Once at Verbier, do you just hit the ticket office and get a one-way lift ticket to go to the Mont Fort hut?During the regular season season I have not take anything more than the clothes I want to wear. I have gone early season when only the winter part of the hut is open and then we did take a light bag. As for getting from Champex to Verbier, you should not have any problem getting a taxi. And yeah just grab a one time lift ticket at the office. Not a big deal. |
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So, Allen, did you not take a harness, glacier rope, etc? |
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Keep in mind the glaciers in Europe are changing rapidly. |
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Tom Halicki wrote:So, Allen, did you not take a harness, glacier rope, etc?Sorry, I should have been clearer as I was referring to just clothing / sleeping gear. But yes, we took all that as well as crampons/ice ax and everything needed for crevasse and avalanche rescue. At the Col du Chardonnet I just down climbed with crampons and ice axe rather than rappel because of the bottleneck, waiting for a rope, and the wind was ripping. I also used crampons for the Grande Combin. The only place that cracks were a real concern was the last day going into Zermatt. But it all varies. One other item to consider, if you are using randonee skis, a ski crampon maybe worth considering. It just depends on conditions and comfort. The last time I was on the route the snow was firm and fast, not enough for a ski crampon but under certain conditions it would be. |
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Allen Sanderson wrote:At the Col du Chardonnet I just down climbed with crampons and ice axe rather than rappel because of the bottleneckI would never cross the Col du Chardonnet with a partner who could not down-climb it on crampons. Often the N side is much more difficult than it used to be, can be a Zoo with multiple parties confused and skiers hung stuck in mid-rappel. In recent years, many guided parties just take a different route. Ken |
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Thanks, all. Very helpful. Not great news about the snow there currently. |
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Tom Halicki wrote:If I have to get all the phone numbers (and the odd web site) for the huts and call them and make reservations myself, how do they handle cancellations and weather delays?I've made hut reservations in Switzerland and usually they just take your name and phone # and are pretty relaxed about cancellations/changes, especially if it's due to weather. It's not like they could automatically charge your credit card even if they wanted to. |
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Allen Sanderson wrote:A couple of tips - join the AAC so you have rescue insurance and will get a discount at the huts.I don't think AAC membership alone will get you a discount (didn't work for me last summer). You need this as well: americanalpineclub.org/hut-… |
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Thanks, ARK. |