New to training, looking for advice.
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From inspiration from the 2017 climbing goals thread I came up with a potentially ambitious goal of red pointing my first 13. The thing is I've always just climbed for fun and up to this point I've managed to onsight 11ds and RP the occasional 12a outside and (never bouldered much outside before) send the occasional v8 or v9 in the gym. |
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What's your weakness? |
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Jon Rhoderick wrote:What's your weakness? Anything over vert. Non positive holds. Poor feet. Jon Rhoderick wrote: What is your project like: long vs short, bouldery vs enduro, what angle?I don't have my mind set on anything for sure yet but I'm leaning towards this: mountainproject.com/v/hasta… Although I just realized consensus brought it down to 12d. I'm looking for 100+ feet with a variety of climbing styles. Jon Rhoderick wrote: How much time do you have to climb/train? If I had to put a number per day I'd say at least 3 hours after work Monday through Friday. At least one full day on the weekends. Jon Rhoderick wrote:What sacrifices are you willing to make to make it happen? I would rather not die or get hurt. Don't care about diet or things like that. Jon Rhoderick wrote: Are you scared of falling?Kinda but it's more of scared of belayer dropping me. Some history there. |
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I have the same goal for 2017...first 5.13. |
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K. Le Douche wrote:I have the same goal for 2017...first 5.13. I started doing the Training Beta program (trainingbeta.com)about a month ago. It's pretty easy to follow, pretty flexible, and only like $15/month. After a month I already feel like my endurance (my biggest weakness) is better so I'm pretty hopeful for the rest of the program. Like you, I had never done any structured training before. I just climbed a bunch, then lifted a bunch. The basic structure of the program is based around six week blocks separated by a recovery week. Each six week block has a different focus (power endurance, finger strength, power, or endurance...if I remember correctly). The work outs are pretty hard, and easy to tailor to your fitness level. The only thing I'm adding to the program on rest days is shoulder and elbow PT, and it seems to be enough. Good Luck training and crushingAppreciate the input. I'll check that training beta out. |
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If you are looking for online training, you should also look at Kris Hampton's site |
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I'd guess that the most likely reason you won't reach your goal in 2017 is |
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Rock Climbers Training Manual by the Anderson Brothers. I've read a bunch about training, and this book is by far the best. |
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kenr wrote:I'd guess that the most likely reason you won't reach your goal in 2017 is injury . . . one big one or several smaller ones. Best book (in English anyway) now for managing and preventing climbing injuries is Make or Break, by Dave MacLeod. Ken P.S. Of course training programs are a good way to help prevent injuries. After a few months on one (or two?) training programs, you might be ready for: 9 out of 10 Climbers Make the Same Mistakes, by Dave MacLeod.Are you getting kick backs from MacLeod? :-) |
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Don, |