16/17 California ice conditions

Hey everyone, has anyone been out on the ice this year? What's in? I just came back from Lundy canyon, ice was good, Donner summit headway is looking climbable.

Lundy canyon December 4th 2016

internationalalpineguides.c…

hey there! I'm fairly new to the Bay area from Boston, and looking for ice climbing partners AND any info around ice in the Tahoe area. If anyone has beta they're willing to share or is looking for a partner with 3 years of ice experience (lead WI3, and follows 4+) holler at me!

kristie.miles@gmail.com

Kristie Miles wrote:hey there! I'm fairly new to the Bay area from Boston, and looking for ice climbing partners AND any info around ice in the Tahoe area. If anyone has beta they're willing to share or is looking for a partner with 3 years of ice experience (lead WI3, and follows 4+) holler at me! kristie.miles@gmail.com

Hi Kristie,

I'm looking for ice partners! But sadly I get all my beta from MP or Facebook. I've been wanting to check out Lee Vining Canyon. I learned to climb ice in Vermont and New Hampshire and have led many 3s and a few 4s. Really psyched to get out this season.

Feel free to PM me if you want to swing some tools together!

Kristie/Trevor,

I'm also interesting in getting more into some ice this year, especially in the Tahoe area. I've got a couple days of ice under my belt, so no leading yet, but I'm good for beer or driving in exchange for getting a little more experience.

Shoot me a message if you're looking to get out and need someone for ice!

Andrew

Tahoe ice is good if you know where to look and the conditions are right...be prepared to thrash and suffer...was really good last week...prob all out now after this rain!

Thin mixed cutty sark!!

-G

Greg Carlisle wrote:Tahoe ice is good if you know where to look and the conditions are right...be prepared to thrash and suffer...was really good last week...prob all out now after this rain! -G

How the approach? Lake frozen? Enough snow to make it over the talus?

It's prob all gone now after the rain.... it's
Gonna need another cold snap to come back in...typical Tahoe thrash, lake is open

All the ice up in Whitney area is in. Not a lot of snow so easy to approach

Anyone been in Lee Vining canyon yet?

Ian Machen wrote:Anyone been in Lee Vining canyon yet?

Check out C-Brook post from 6 days ago. IMG is doing their ice condition reports now.

Any photos of the Whitney area ice?
-G

Greg Carlisle wrote:Any photos of the Whitney area ice? -G

There are couple in my blog -- Just scroll though and you will see them.
fresnoclimber.blogspot.com/…

The ice at the portal is in, and at least until that big storm rolls in are snow free. Looks like two ice falls are in above lower and upper boy scout lake

Josh Hutch wrote: Check out C-Brook post from 6 days ago. IMG is doing their ice condition reports now.

As an update. I went to LV Canyon today, it was miserable. Rainy, and there are only two spots where the ice is in enough to climb. Parking Lot Ice, far left side, and I don't know what it's called, but it's all the way back in the canyon, left side.

If anyone wants to go check things out at Eagle Lake or Coldstream after a bit more cold weather, send me a message. Also is there any winter ice north of Tahoe? Like Lassen or Shasta? I hear Shasta has some AI lines later in the year.

Ryan Pfleger wrote: I hear Shasta has some AI lines later in the year.

Are you referring to ice climbing on the seracs or Hotlum glacier ice chutes? That is for late summer/fall ice climbing. It will be under many feet of snow snow, and the road to the north side trailheads is also buried in snow

SMG does a good report too.....

sierramtnguides.com/conditi…

Cold Stream is pretty good to go. Both routes on the right are leadable. The 2 routes on the left need a few more days or a week. No snow shoes needed for the approach.

Any one available and interested in Cold Stream or Eagle Lake ice this Thursday the 22nd?

I will also be around Dec 27- Jan 6th, looking to climb anywhere in CA, I'll even take beginners out, I'm desperate!

Josh 530-3O4-6O27

Josh Hutch wrote:Cold Stream is pretty good to go. Both routes on the right are leadable. The 2 routes on the left need a few more days or a week. No snow shoes needed for the approach. Any one available and interested in Cold Stream or Eagle Lake ice this Thursday the 22nd? I will also be around Dec 27- Jan 6th, looking to climb anywhere in CA, I'll even take beginners out, I'm desperate! Josh 530-3O4-6O27

Single best beginner option if you are in the Mammoth/June Lake area is road side ice at the end of the plowed road on the June Lake Road. Lee Vi ING Canyon is in and good, but a bit more of a walk to get to.

Thanks for the Coldstream beta Josh, I went out yesterday the 22nd. Here is a pic of the main flow, still lead-able but melting out a bit with the warm weather.

Coldstream canyon

Plenty of ice around june lake, plenty of people too

Roadside ice