Trad Climbs in Socal with high density of rap offs.
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Hi all, |
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Suicide rock, whitney portal and joshua tree all have plenty of amazing single pitch trad routes. I don't know if that's far enough South for you, but it's as far south as I climb, so that's all I got. |
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NJB.... heal up. I don't think that there is much of the type of climbing you are looking for at the places mentioned in Stephen D's post. |
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Thanks for the help guys. My wrist luckily is not too bad, still waiting to see a specialist. But it is just swollen and impinged/painful (have had on and off episodes of the pain after a MTB fall a few month back). Nothing I would want to climb on, but I can belay with a wrist brace. |
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Perhaps too far out of your way, but a place with great weather all winter with well over 50 climbs just like you describe is at Panic Town in Santa Barbara. You'll usually never see another soul there either and you'll have the place to yourself. |
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Christopher..... Question for you. |
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This time of year (December), Sespe Gorge (Black Wall) is only in the sun for about 2 hours from 9 am until 11 am. Although even in the shade, unless you're unlucky it will still be at least 60 degrees almost every day of the year so if you bring a beanie and a jacket, it is very climbable even in the dead of the winter in the shade. In summer months, it is in the sun most of the day until the middle of the afternoon. |
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""The routes of Panic Town are southwest facing although the base of Panic Town is almost always in the shade. It is in a fairly narrow canyon and even if the sun is directly overhead, there is tree cover throughout much of the base area. On the wall itself, you will be in the sun throughout a good chunk of the morning and into the early afternoon this time of year." |
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"Thats the info I need, THX always looking for new stuff to climb" |
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You can always pick one of the walls in Joshua Tree (or anywhere else honestly) with high route density and just rap off a gear anchor to clean. Then pull the rope, lead the next route, collect the old anchor, build a new anchor, rap off that, etc. |
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Thanks for the help everyone. |
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Nathanael wrote:You can always pick one of the walls in Joshua Tree (or anywhere else honestly) with high route density and just rap off a gear anchor to clean. Then pull the rope, lead the next route, collect the old anchor, build a new anchor, rap off that, etc. You just need a little extra gear so that you can afford to leave a few pieces at the top while you lead the next route.I think this is a good suggestion. Though they are sprouting up in more and more places, there aren't that many routes at Josh where there are fixed anchors up top. At the Hall of Horrors, if you lead Diamond Dogs you can TR Lickety Splits (5.7) and Zardoz (5.8) next door. There are chains at the top of White Lightening (5.7)/Poodles are People Too (.10b) which those folks who barely scratch their way up the 5.7 use to hand dog all over the .10b (can you tell that bothers me?). Rock Garden Valley has a good density of 5.7-5.9 routes in close proximity. Lots of fun stuff there. Also Tiny Tots Rock nearby is similar. |
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NJB wrote:Thanks for the help everyone. Ill have a look around at some climbs in Joshua Tree. Does anyone have an recommendations for areas to look for (looking for 5.8 trad or under or moderate 5.10 sport). Just want to avoid doing something like double cross an holding up parties while I rap down and clean.NJB.... glad to hear the wrist is healing up.... climb on. |
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Corral Wall in Indian Cove. Actually quite a few have anchors so you can just rap directly. |
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Recently I injured my wrist, so I am not able to climb for a bit, meaning I am relegated to being a belay bitch.
Another alternative, especially appropriate for a geographically vast place like Joshua Tree, is that both you and your partner can use the opportunity to track down the location (approach, base of route) to check out climbs you might want to do together in the future. That way you both are moving, so you both get to stay warm in the cold weather, you save yourself a huge amount of time in the future from wandering around with the whole rack and rope, and you don't risk further aggravating your injury by belaying. And this is actually a really fun alternative. |