Climbing with Tennis Elbow
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So, I've had fairly clear signs of lateral epicondylitis for about 3 months now, ever since my last trip to the Red (goddamned 5.10 wall at Roadside climbing nothing but pockets all day did it). When the pain was acute after the trip, I took about 2 weeks off until the pain was fully gone and then slowly incorporated moderate climbing back in combined with PT exercises (dumbbell, hammer, gyro ball). I've pretty much been there ever since. |
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I've had it and managed recovery while continuing to climb. I was in the construction trades and didn't realize my work was aggravating the tendonitis. Once I clued on that I wore an elbow brace all the time...24/7 Even especially sleeping. |
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I have chronic lateral epi. and sometimes quite severe. I have found that if I don't climb at all it is just as bad. If I climb too hard it gets worse. There is a fine line of use that helps keep the pain at a minimum but does not make it worse. |
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Ted I don't have any advice on your three questions other than 1., yes it is possible I think, IANAD. But the thing that really helped me get over it was doing this exercise (the one with the hammer) ALL the time. Like, at work I'd be sitting there doing it with an inverted water bottle or something. I'm guessing you already know about it but I doubt you are doing many hundreds of reps a day like I was. I also found backstroke swimming* to be really effective, if you have access to a pool. *Backstroke only, the other common strokes replicate climbing movements. |
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First question is how old are you? |
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I had it in varying degrees for years and years. It only went away for good when, as a byproduct of old age, I started climbing less difficult pitches. |
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This just hit me out of the blue, too, so thanks for this post. What's bizarre is I have barely had time for climbing lately, and the tennis elbow flared up on a hike (taking lenses out their holders). Weird. Now it's really bad. |
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I used to get lateral epicondylitis pretty bad and pretty frequently (off and on for years). A couple years ago, I tore my labrum (climbing) and had to have surgery followed by physical therapy. When I was in physical therapy, I also talked with the physical therapist about the problems I had suffered from previously with the lateral epicondylitis. She said that a lot of people develop pain in the lateral elbows but it's actually due to shoulder weakness/laxity. Since I've gotten back into climbing over the past year, I've been training as hard at climbing as I ever did before, but have also been blasting my shoulders in the regular gym with weights. With the additional shoulder training, I haven't had any issues with the epicondylitis. I do the weight training for overall strength, but also add in shoulder stability exercises like internal and (especially) external rotation using the cables. It probably wouldn't hurt to add some triceps and chest exercises in as well to help balance the muscle groups. |
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Cool, that's reassuring. I've heard that about the shoulders before on one of the thousands of tennis elbow vids I've watched, good to know it worked for you. I'll try it! |
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Muscrat wrote:First question is how old are you? Ever swing a hammer for a living? I was in construction, swung the 32oz for years, got to the point i could not grab and turn a door handle, swing a hammer, etc. 1 cortisone shot took care of it for 20 years, until i started climbing. 5+ years into climbing, and i live with constant elbow pain; epicondylitis. Both tennis and golfers. This has been diagnosed by multiple docs. Pain runs from shoulder to 2nd knuckle of middle 3 fingers. Funny thing is, climbing hard alleviates the pain temporarily. What i have done for this is threefold; 1) Cortisone shot in my index 2nd knuckle. Worked wonders. ( I had taken a hard fall onto a great ring lock, 10% flexion in finger improved to 75%). This also concurrently helped my elbow for some months, not sure why. 2) Cortisone shot to the elbow. Having done research i spoke with my doctor ( i am very lucky to have a GP who is a sports med specialist; works with Olympic team) who is on the side of the benefits of cortisone shots. DO your research. YMMV. 3) I have multiple physical issues, knees, hip, elbow shoulder, hands. Use and abuse. Multiple doctors, physicians, surgeons have all had the exact same advice: "Use it or loose it. Keep doing what you are doing, deal with the pain, don't push too hard, make sure you get plenty of rest". I am 60yo next month, been climbing going on 6 years. Hope to find a 13 i can project this season. (Not got at thuggery!) SO the long and the short of this missive is: a) See a doctor to really know what is what. b) Keep doing what you're doing, it don't get any better. (Again, YMMV and age dependent).I'm 33 and never swung a hammer for a living, lol. I'm a teacher. Good to know cortisone worked for you...not sure if I'm there yet but definitely haven't ruled it out. |
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teece303 wrote:This just hit me out of the blue, too, so thanks for this post. What's bizarre is I have barely had time for climbing lately, and the tennis elbow flared up on a hike (taking lenses out their holders). Weird. Now it's really bad. Should I try those exercises while it's still sore, or should I wait?Usual advice is to wait until inflammation dies down and the pain subsides. |
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What worked for me was Trigger Point therapy. This was what got rid of the pain after I tried the exercises from dodgy elbows and rest. |
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Have you listened to the training beta podcasts? The one below was a really good one about injuries. Maybe it will help. |
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recent scientific study finding reported in NYTimes is that people who performed special exercises for Tennis elbow had long-term outcomes and speed-of-healing only slightly better than people who just carefully returned to normal use. |
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Here's the reference for the original study reported in the NYT, for those interested. |
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Well, the placebo effect is funny when it comes to pain management. If you feel better, does it matter? |
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I have had tremendous success in using Flexbar / Tyler Twist exercises to control then eliminate lateral epicondylitis. For the first time in many years of recurrence I am now on top of it and experiencing no pain. rgolds link to Julian Saunders' web page on the subject is gold - he helped me understand it, then I refined the suggested exercises using the flexbar (just google Tyler Twist). |
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Flexbar did wonders for me too. |
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Muscrat wrote:First question is how old are you? Ever swing a hammer for a living? I was in construction, swung the 32oz for years, got to the point i could not grab and turn a door handle, swing a hammer, etc. 1 cortisone shot took care of it for 20 years, until i started climbing. 5+ years into climbing, and i live with constant elbow pain; epicondylitis. Both tennis and golfers. This has been diagnosed by multiple docs. Pain runs from shoulder to 2nd knuckle of middle 3 fingers. Funny thing is, climbing hard alleviates the pain temporarily. What i have done for this is threefold; 1) Cortisone shot in my index 2nd knuckle. Worked wonders. ( I had taken a hard fall onto a great ring lock, 10% flexion in finger improved to 75%). This also concurrently helped my elbow for some months, not sure why. 2) Cortisone shot to the elbow. Having done research i spoke with my doctor ( i am very lucky to have a GP who is a sports med specialist; works with Olympic team) who is on the side of the benefits of cortisone shots. DO your research. YMMV. 3) I have multiple physical issues, knees, hip, elbow shoulder, hands. Use and abuse. Multiple doctors, physicians, surgeons have all had the exact same advice: "Use it or loose it. Keep doing what you are doing, deal with the pain, don't push too hard, make sure you get plenty of rest". I am 60yo next month, been climbing going on 6 years. Hope to find a 13 i can project this season. (Not good at thuggery!) SO the long and the short of this missive is: a) See a doctor to really know what is what. b) Keep doing what you're doing, it don't get any better. (Again, YMMV and age dependent).Is this pain on the inside of the elbow? I've strained something as well, last Friday. Feels better now, but made me stop climbing for a couple days. Also, swing a hammer for a living. |