Sore Shoulder after Belaying

So I've noticed this before but wanted to get some feedback before I go running to a sports med doctor for something that is just muscle fatigue or can be corrected by a change in technique.

I've noticed after I belay a lot, my shoulder is getting sore at the top of the joint. I don't notice it when I'm climbing, but it starts up when I'm belaying. Roughly for every climb I do, the kidlet does 2-3 so I'm belaying most of the time. It hurts for 1-2 days and goes away with NSAIDs or Tiger Balm and rest.

I think it's a start of a repetitive motion injury and I've been told (unofficially by the 13-year old) that compared to other's that belay, I make large motions with the arm when pulling slack. She's a fast climber and feels more comfortable and confident with a tight tension, so I'm pulling in a lot of slack at one time. It's just pain, an achy type of pain, I can move the joint in all directions and there's no weakness or drop in strength.

so ideas on what the pain could be?
And any suggestions on how to avoid it in the future?

Are you new to climbing and belaying? Did you have someone experienced teach you how to belay? If it's a technique problem, an experienced belayer might be able to tell what you're doing wrong.

Otherwise, it may be a medical issue that I'm not qualified to diagnose. I'm sure some other climbers will be able to diagnose it, as that is common here. :)

FrankPS wrote:Are you new to climbing and belaying? Did you have someone experienced teach you how to belay? If it's a technique problem, an experienced belayer might be able to tell what you're doing wrong. Otherwise, it may be a medical issue that I'm not qualified to diagnose. I'm sure some other climbers will be able to diagnose it, as that is common here. :)

I am new to both. I've only been climbing for a few months and I was taught how to belay in a private class by the gym and have passed the test and was approved to belay independently. But am still improving on my belay technique with practice.

I know I do throw my arm out farther as a way to take in a lot of slack at once. And I was wondering that large motion is what is causing the pain and should make smaller, faster motions? Or is this a serious sign of something else?

You shouldn't need large motions to belay. Newer climbers often find belaying difficult and results in soreness. As you progress and gain experience, it becomes second nature and not painful or tiring.

If your climber is moving so fast that you need these large motions, tell them to slow down!

And have someone experienced review your technique.

Edit: Large movements with your brake hand arm make it harder to brake, too. Which can make it a safety issue, too.

I used to get soreness in my shoulder after belaying in the gym, but not outdoors. I was using a Mammut Smart, I eventually figured out that while it was rated for thick gym ropes, there was a lot more friction between device and rope than when I used my ATC. This caused me to have to pull harder to take out slack. I switched to belaying in the gym with my ATC and haven't had any more soreness.

I second what Frank said about technique. It will take a little practice but with short belay strokes you'll actually be able to take in slack faster than with really long arm motions.

I have a similar problem from lead belaying. I'm right-handed, so my brake hand is my right hand.

I have agonizing pain in my left shoulder. I figured out that it's from paying out slack when my climber is clipping a draw. When I duplicate the motion of pulling rope through a Gri-Gri quickly I DEFINITELY feel the pain. It got so bad I had to quit climbing for months. Months turned into a year and a half. Time off turned into arthroscopic shoulder surgery to relieve what the surgeon thought was an impingement. Now, 7 months after surgery, I have the exact same pain as before. I'm in physical therapy and hope to return to climbing someday but don't see it happening anytime soon.

My advice... be careful when paying out slack quickly. Take it easy. Anticipate when your climber will need it so you aren't in such a hurry to get it out when the time comes. And take some time off if you feel a twinge.

Nyte Knight wrote: ...I make large motions with the arm when pulling slack. She's a fast climber and feels more comfortable and confident with a tight tension, so I'm pulling in a lot of slack at one time.

1. As Frank said, it is her responsibility to slow down if the belay has problems keeping up with her climbing speed.

2. Get her to train to not need the "light tension" - it's counterproductive and won't be there when she starts to lead.

I dislocated my left shoulder with all the fun related things. So far, the only belay device that does not aggravate my shoulder is Trango Vergo. Belay stroke is pulling rope to the side, not up, it really helps. It might be re-released at some point. It is possible to belay with GriGri with hands flipped, it is a bit awkward, but if lefties manage anyone can.
Also, those long arm pulls can be managed - if you step towards 1st draw you can gain 2-3ft. And, once the climber is bit higher up the route having extra slack in the system is less dangerous. You don't need that much, just enough to not require that sudden feed of 4-5ft. Incidentally, extra slack really helps when attempting to give a soft catch to the lighter climber.
When TR belaying, I usually alternate hands - pull down with left, lock off right, left hand goes on brake, right pulls, left lock off, right goes on brake - ....

The only thing that seems to help with shoulder pain is being diligent with shoulder PT and opposing exercises.

Best luck.