Mountain Project Logo

Nomic questions.

Original Post
Vanilla Drilla From Manila · · Goiter, CO · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 50

So, going to get a set of tools for steep ice/mixed.
I hear petzl nomics have the slight edge over a lot of stuff out there in terms of weight or balanced feeling. I went down to the local shop and played with the new grivel tools. I like em a lot except for that damn handle. I really liked the nomic handle; I have tried a pair in the past and loved how they climbed. I guess my only concern is the 15 cases of squeaky heads that you read about on the interwebs. Anybody want to chime in?

Marty Theriault · · Quebec, QC · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 310

I used the Nomics since they came out over 10+ years ago, amazing tools, its the tool every other company tried to copy! That being said, one day I tried the Cassin X-dreams and was hooked, not saying the Nomics are not good, just saying Cassin managed to up them, especially in the Pick department. Also, check the difference in pick prices, ( yes cassin picks use up a bit faster but still not comparable ) So my suggestion to you, try as many tools as you can, Nomics, X-Dreams, Tech Machines, Switch, Raptors, can`t go wrong these days !

good luck

doligo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 264

I've had squeaky head issue on my previous pair of Nomics, but it never bothered me. I too, like you, like the handles on the Nomics and the fact that they can adjust down to my hands. I liked the picks of Cassin tools, but I'm not a fan of the heavier shaft than the head. I hear Petzl came up with ice specific picks this year, that should help the ice displacement issue that their normal picks have compared to other manufacturers'.

Luc-514 · · Montreal, QC · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 12,536

The "new" PUR'Ice picks from Petzl is basically the old Cascade Picks updated to fit the new tools. Less ice displacement and finally Petzl noticed their tools weren't only used in alpine environment.
The Cassin picks are soft, softer than the BD, Petzl and Grivels, but they're cheap and have one of the best profile (I used the X-All Mountain pick to mod the pick on my Quarks).
I now have the Fuel, love the handle but the swing isn't natural and takes a while getting used to.

Ray Pinpillage · · West Egg · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 180
Luc wrote:The "new" PUR'Ice picks from Petzl is basically the old Cascade Picks updated to fit the new tools.
That's not true at all.
Luc-514 · · Montreal, QC · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 12,536
Ray Pinpillage wrote: That's not true at all.
They look as low profile as the old Cascade I remember, oh well, already got a pair, lets see how they handle.
Ray Pinpillage · · West Egg · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 180

I posted pictures in the review section for anyone who wants to see the difference.

Nick Sweeney · · Spokane, WA · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 969

I really love my Cassin X-Dreams but you really can't go wrong with any modern high end tool. Nomics are an industry standard for a reason.

Zac St Jules · · New Hampshire · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 1,188

I had the death wobble on my petzl tools. Drove me friggin nuts... Im not a nomic hater but I definitely feel like there other really good options.

Im going to make some points for the raptor.
The raptor is an incredible tool and is inexpensive. I was torquing my grivel masters in a thin crack and the picks bent (no surprise, i was really torquing) and did the same crack with my raptors and the picks didn't bend at all. The picks are incredible for pure ice and hold up incredibly for mixed.

...Im pretty loyal to grivel though. The new handle on the tech machine feels perfect to me and Im not really a fan of adjustable handles anyway...

Vanilla Drilla From Manila · · Goiter, CO · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 50
Zac.St.Jules wrote:I had the death wobble on my petzl tools. Drove me friggin nuts... Im not a nomic hater but I definitely feel like there other really good options. Im going to make some points for the raptor. The raptor is an incredible tool and is inexpensive. I was torquing my grivel masters in a thin crack and the picks bent (no surprise, i was really torquing) and did the same crack with my raptors and the picks didn't bend at all. The picks are incredible for pure ice and hold up incredibly for mixed. ...Im pretty loyal to grivel though. The new handle on the tech machine feels perfect to me and Im not really a fan of adjustable handles anyway...
Yeah, Phil swears by grivel stuff at this point... Did you get a replacement from petzl or did they tell ya to go pound rocks?
JohnnyG · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 10

are you a troll? Because we are just going to us to comment in circles about this for days, haha. FWIW, I have the nomics, feel no need to get any other tool. I used to have the BD viper, and I am way more into the nomic. Never tried the cassin, but the cassin and the nomic are the only other tools I hear people rave about consistently.

whatever you do, don't buy the same tools as this guy at 3:24, or you;ll end up like him

mountainproject.com/v/who-a…

Vanilla Drilla From Manila · · Goiter, CO · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 50
JohnnyG wrote:are you a troll? Because we are just going to us to comment in circles about this for days, haha. FWIW, I have the nomics, feel no need to get any other tool. I used to have the BD viper, and I am way more into the nomic. Never tried the cassin, but the cassin and the nomic are the only other tools I hear people rave about consistently. whatever you do, don't buy the same tools as this guy at 3:24, or you;ll end up like him mountainproject.com/v/who-a…
Nah, not a troll... Just doing a quick and dirty survey of who's had issues with the head wiggle on the Nomics. On a related note... if I ever land in a puddle after a fall, what sort of waterproof socks should I be wearing.
CCChanceR Ronemus · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 130

I also had a squeaky head issue on my nomics, but Petzl replaced them within like a week, even gave me some free picks :) YMMV, cause I've heard some horror stories about their customer service.

Steven Kovalenko · · Calgary · Joined May 2014 · Points: 25

If you're a 10 ice days a year or less, moderate ice kind of guy, you probably will not develop shaky heads on Nomics. They are still great performing tools.

If you beat the tar out of them smashing pins and drytooling, and climb a lot of days in a season, buy them from a retailer with a generous return policy.

When I started placing a lot of pins (last time I was on Nomics), the heads did not stay solid for long. I carry a separate light alpine hammer now to save my ice tools (now on Tech Machines). Offset handle ice tools are terrible as pin hammers anyay.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Climbing Gear Discussion
Post a Reply to "Nomic questions."

Log In to Reply
Welcome

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started