Safe Anchor Building

A friend of mine recently set up this anchor to belay a second. He said it was safe enough to take a shirtless whip off of, but I'm not so sure. Is this a safe setup, or probably YGD?

YGD! theres a reason the crossloading specs are printed right on the biner. also no biner to biner, there should be something in between. also not a comfortable amount of redundancy

OMG!! Thanks for the laugh!

I like the nest. Pretty crucial component.

OLH

Can't see what the left arm of the anchor goes around. Anything?

Biner-to-biner isn't really an issue, despite someone mentioning it. And, from the climber's side, it isn't actually that -- it is keeping the rope-biner on the guide-mode device from flipping, so not a weight-bearing issue.

Main issue is the cross-loading of the main-point biner. Not good, but not likely to be fatal; should hold a follower falling without issue.

Kurt G. wrote:YGD! theres a reason the crossloading specs are printed right on the biner. also no biner to biner, there should be something in between. also not a comfortable amount of redundancy

1st pic could have used the orange cord instead of the yellow sling to make it longer and then not crossload the master point biner.

second pic I would have added another piece in the system in case the rock is shitty in that one spot.

These are livable belays, but it would make me question his anchor building skills and I might not want to climb with him if he wasn't open to improving. But thats just me.

Also that rope looks kinda Fat for a Micro-jul, must have been a pain to pull rope through it.

YGD for a second reason too - the brake biner is clipped through the hanging biner on the belay device. If that crossloaded biner twists even a little, the brake biner won't allow the device to brake.

speth wrote: See, that's what I thought, but this was a setup on all of his anchors. This one seems to have too many lockers.

Big problem I see is that if the right thread fails the whole anchor is going to swing left. Definitely not bomber enough for a shirtless whip.

Also, there is a new way to lock off the rope biner with the Megajul to solve the issue Jack Servedio brought up. Here is a link Megajul discussion

Besides the cross-loaded biner, the legs in that anchor are approaching a near horizontal orientation, which will multiply forces to each piece. Those slings should be extended to bring the angle between them under 90. The black and white sling has an erroneous figure 8, and the bights formed by the overhand are un-equalized. Why weren't that orange cord and large belay biner utilized?

Priceless.