5.10 Anasazi Guides or Pinks for Trad?
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Hey MP - if you had to choose either the 5.10 Guide Anasazis or the Pinks for trad - which would you choose and WHY? |
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Same rubber. Both very sticky. Guides are definitely much stiffer. Both very comfortable. The major difference for me is #1 the upper on the Guide has some padding to it #2 the guide is slightly up-turned whereas the pinks are flat #3 the toe box on the guides is quite flat and squared off while the pink is slightly asymmetric, and better for toeing in. The pinks are a softer shoe, but I love them for edging. |
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Based on your description, I would say the Guide is a better match. That said, the Pink is probably a better shoe, but it shines more as a performance shoe whereas the Guide is an all-day trad shoe. |
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I have the Guide Anasazis and can tell you why I like them. I haven't tried the Pinks though so I can't give a comparison. |
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Jen, I have the pinks, blancos & verdes. Though I like them all, and the verdes are my trad shoe of choice, I would not use any Anasazi lace for splitters. They would perform okay, but you will destroy the laces. |
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Go try both on honestly. I thought the guide would be the ticket for easy alpine, but after trying it on that is one weird shoe. Even a half size up from street shoe it left my toes knuckled, it already has a high profile toe box and laces that run right to the rand. It really seems like a shoe that was designed with edging in mind, I want a lower profile toe for rock I'm mainly jamming. I also see those laces shredding in one day out if you're jamming, they just run way to far into the toe. |
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Jen W wrote:Hey MP - if you had to choose either the 5.10 Guide Anasazis or the Pinks for trad - which would you choose and WHY? To be used from higher friction cracks of CO South Platte to splitter sandstone of UT. And occasionally for a touch of offwidth in Vedauwoo. Priorities: - Not make me want to cry in splitters. - All-day comfort for long alpine days. - Decent smearing and edging (stiff sole?). Thanks in advance!Guides, without any question. Pinks are designed for excellent edging and toe work. They put a lot of stress on the knuckle joint of your big toe, which is great for thin edging, but for cracks would be murder. GO |
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Eh, I've climbed cracks in the Pinks and they were great. The lower profile toe makes them better for finger cracks and thin hands. |
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I guess it just goes to show you, it's all about how it fits your foot. I have wide feet, and for me, I cannot imagine a worse shoe for crack climbing. It would definitely make me cry, and believe me, I have a high tolerance for foot crack pain. I will say that I have tried on the Guide, but never climbed in it. |
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I'd look into Mocs too if you're going to be climbing splitters. That being said, Pinks are a great all around shoe for long trad pitches. |
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Lin Robinson wrote:I'd look into Mocs too if you're going to be climbing splitters.I wear Moccs and Supermoccs, but the OP said part of her criteria were: ----------------- - All-day comfort for long alpine days. - Decent smearing and edging (stiff sole?). ----------------- Moccs are neither of those things. GO |
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Moccs are very comfortable if you don't downsize aggressively (even then, honestly) and I have seen people use 'em for big days, but yeah...stiff sole for edging, that they are not. |