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Ondra on the Dawn Wall
Ted Pinson wrote: Oh, you're right - it was 10-12 ("easy" to Ondra) in the update above. Are you sure there's a 13 coming up? Adam doesn't seem to know that. :/He may've just misconverted. Since 13a is only 7c+ rather than 8a. No one in Europe considers 13a a distinction. |
Jon Frisby wrote: He may've just misconverted. Since 13a is only 7c+ rather than 8a. No one in Europe considers 13a a distinction.In one of his posts Adam said he thought the 13a pitch was only `12d, fwiw. |
 While we are waiting for this lazy sob to complete those last couple of pitches, here is some info from Adam about the loop pitch. “Pitch 16 can be climbed via the dyno or the loop. If I am not wrong, the dyno was given 5.14c (8c+), and the loop is probably easier—I heard something about 5.14a— but due to the crazy character of the climbing, the grade is not relevant. The loop pitch or dyno pitch is followed by a 5.14a layback. In between, there is no belay, only a no-hands stance. My original goal was to connect the loop pitch into the layback, making a 60-meter mega-pitch at 5.14c at least.⠀ “The loop pitch is an extremely hard pitch mentally. The down-climb is awkward, powerful and insecure and is the crux of the pitch for sure. At the bottom of the loop, there is a good ledge, but I could not sit down. As you start climbing, you get into a tiny layback with pin-scars, which is super easy to slip on. This section is probably at 5.13c, but it is really devastating if you slip and have to climb the down-climb again. I was lucky to fight through the down-climb, took a rest at the ledge and climbed super carefully through the layback into the no-hands stance—the end of the loop/dyno pitch. I continued into pitch 17 (5.14a layback), but after climbing for 45 mins, my feet were just gone. I took a little rest and did pitch 17 from the no-hands stance. Doing the whole 16 plus 17 link seemed impossible at that moment.⠀ “In the next 4 hours, I climbed pitch 18 (5.13c) in possibly the biggest fight of the day. My feet were so painful & weak that I was shaking so badly on the second half of the pitch. But I made it. Pitch 19 is very short & bouldery (5.13c, but I think 5.13b is better) & pitch 20 (5.13c—one of the best pitches on the wall) went very smooth. Pitch 21 (5.13d) is the last hard pitch. I had never worked on this pitch very carefully and it got dark in the meantime. I switched on my headlamp and headed towards the Wino Tower. I climbed slowly, took my time & hoped I would not pump out. It turned out to be a good tactic & at 6 p.m. I was at the Wino Tower!" |
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I took a little rest and did pitch 17 from the no-hands stance. |
djh860 wrote:I took a little rest and did pitch 17 from the no-hands stance. Does this mean that you got off the climb and then latter came back and started at your high point?Who are you talking to? You know Adam Ondra isn't actually commenting in this thread right? |
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What I understand is that he used the nohands rest as a place to build a belay, had some rest and then climbed pitch 17. So Adam didn't quite live up to what he had ment to do, but it still can pass for a red point. Didn't Tommy do it the same way? It really doesn't matter, as long as they are honest about it. Someone else can try to do it better. |
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Way to go, Adam. Thanks for the update and the analysis, Kees. |
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Almost there! Last message I saw was from pitch 28. The first pitches this day were wet and cold and foggy. But pitch 28 looked dry and warm. So, go go go Adam! |
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Yay...go, Adam, go!! |
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Dude is a machine. |
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A-fkn-mazing. Hardest sport line, hardest wall. Watts next? |
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Not that i care about speed records. But did Ondra crush Tommy and Kevin's time? |
Nick D'Ambrosio wrote:Not that i care about speed records. But did Ondra crush Tommy and Kevin's time?Yea, by about 7 years....:) |
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^ Good stuff Mr. Tut. HAHA that actually made me laugh. As far as time and push top to bottom go? |
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Well, more like 2 weeks, if you count the push. You can't really give somebody credit for projecting a route faster than someone who developed it. |
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Let's just call Ondra silent but deadly!!!! |
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You can call Adam Ondra many things, but silent isn't one of them. |
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And it's going to be downgraded... it's only a 14c guys! |
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^ Gosh Dawn |
