Is Smith rock too busy and polished these days?
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I've always wanted to visit Smith from the UK and finally hope to plan a trip end september early october. I don't really want to go and be disappointed if I have to stand in line for routes or face too much polish on the easy classics. Can someone give me an honest view before I commit?? I would look to do some easy classics with my wife to 5.10 and some 5:10 to easy 5:13 myself. Have I missed the golden era? I am happy to avoid weekends |
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Although Smith can get crowded at times, I have never had any issues waiting in lines for climbs, even the classics like Monkey Face and Voyage of a Cowdog. I love Smith Rock, it's one of my favorite climbing spots (and I've been to quite a few places around the US). I'm only a moderate level climber so I can't really speak to climbs above 10s though |
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People have been climbing the classics here for 30 years. It's not limestone, so it doesn't "polish" as you might expect. There are tens of hundreds of routes spread over many areas with many different aspects, so if you don't want to stand in line you don't have to. Weekdays are, of course, significantly lower traffic, so get on the super-classics then. Otherwise, just keep an open-mind, be ready to walk a little further, climb in some of the less concentrated areas, and be ready to make new friends on the weekends. |
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Was at Smith for the first time this spring. Some impressions: community is awesome. With the bivy being set up as it is, everyone is friendly. This carries out on to the climbs. So many climbs and areas, no needed to wait, just walk a bit more. There are greasy holds, not really polished, so temperature makes a big difference. Do it! It is super fun there. |
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That's a great time of year to go and you won't be disappointed. |
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If things are crowded on the weekends go check out the Lower Gorge... I think its some of the best climbing at Smith. Sport, trad, and mixed. |
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Easy 13? I want easy 13! |
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Many thanks for all your replies |
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Alanmurray wrote:Many thanks for all your replies It will be Sports routes I am interested in. I have heard about the under grading and run outs. I will be bringing a stick clip and don't mind a bit run. Can the scary ones be avoided? How do the grades/runouts compare to Red River?Hard to compare, the climbing is very different in style. Smith tends to be crimpy and technical, rather than overhung and pumpy like the Red. I find the grading at Smith much more difficult than at the Red. Most climbs are safe, but the bolts are definitely farther apart than at the Red and it can get a bit heady. For example, some .10s (Gumby/Morning Sky and BBQ the Pope among them) are well-known for hard climbing before the first bolt, and Heinous Cling has huge (but safe!) fall potential 2 bolts before the anchor. The guide book is excellent. Use your stick clip liberally and you'll be fine. |
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In my experience there are very few issues with lines and dangerous run outs on harder routes (mid .11 on). Expect 8-15 ft spacing between bolts with generally safe falls. |
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It's a terrible choss pile never worth visiting, |
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The one time I was there it was in December and the people I was with had their car broken into. I found it to be best in the cold. |