Mike Libecki solo technique
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Hi folks. I have been experimenting with different lead solo techniques. Trying to find the best method or device for lead solo. Grigri soloist, knots etc. |
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?! |
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Thanks for the reply. I am not a beginner. I have been at this for 20 years or so. |
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I use a stock grigri and I clip into backup knots. I'm happy with this setup, it works for me. In fact, I carried a SP up El Cap this fall and didn't use it once (though I might have if there were any hard free pitches). One of the benefits to a gri or something similar is that you won't need to lead with an extra rap device. |
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I've been using a Silent Partner lately. I have probably 5 free pitches and 10 aid pitches in and it's only been getting better, generally. With aid it adds quite a bit of bulk, so I stick to clipping in only after I pass a piece and it's at or below the SP. |
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Michael Schneider wrote:https://www.mountainproject.com/v/your-top-rope-solo-device/107600363__4#a_112297281 This is not my set up, Ho, LEAD Solo!,Sorry But if you ask and can prove yourself worthy too, Healyje, might privately, (not open web posts) give you the advice you seek, I agree with him though, as per the Quote Check out the British / Yosemite climber Andrew Kirkpatrick's very detailed stuff. . . Many solo wall climbers swear by the Silent Partner.... Edit, 11/8/16 10:18am For the bump I was kind of amazed that no one else has responded ! My share was to bump your obviously well informed question. This is the same thing HealyJe has been responsive in the past, but Both he and I feel like the people we were interacting with did not have the requisite skill set, you are surly not that, sorry if that is what you thought I was saying. Bump! ? Ho I started with that!tThat pic is from me. Just FYI, I've never used it to solo lead or even looked into if it is within it's design for that. The biggest thing with the Ushba, for me, is to keep it oriented so that there is hardly ever any slack. I make this happen by using a makeshift chest harness out of a double-length sling that meets in the front and gets clipped into the same basket on the Gridlock as the Ushba ascender. |
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Lead soloing with a grigri or any device MUST be backed up with knots. I've lead solod with a grigri many times and at least twice in my experience, the cluster around my harness prevented the cam from engaging (once all the way to the backup knot and another time slipping for a bit before twisting and then engaging - both made me wish I'd worn my brown pants) |
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How do you guys use the back up knots? Where are they clipped and how is the rope organized? |
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jlind wrote:How do you guys use the back up knots? Where are they clipped and how is the rope organized?This video shows the best method for rope management and backup knots. youtube.com/watch?v=BzJZSLh… |
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If your goal is to solo El Cap, cut right to the chase and get a Silent Partner. You can use a Gri-gri, although it is not recommend for soloing by Petzl but a Silent Partner is safer and far, far less clustery. |
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I see on the Rock Exotica site that the Silent Partner is discontinued. Anyone know why or of a similar product? |
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That's a bummer. Probably since it was such a single purpose item. |
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Backwards Eric wrote:I see on the Rock Exotica site that the Silent Partner is discontinued. Anyone know why or of a similar product?Here is a new option that looks like a good possibility but it wont be available until next spring or summer. wildcountry.com/revo/ |
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mike gibson wrote: This video shows the best method for rope management and backup knots.The rope in a bag method is not advisable as you're carrying all the weight of the rope on your back at the start of the pitch. (caveat, if the end of the pitch is harder freeclimbing than the beggining then this method may be worthwhile) The best method I've found is the continuous loop method where the end of your lead line is tied to the start of your tag/haul/rap line. (Here's some links to it andy-kirkpatrick.com/articl… And headlampsclusterfucksandoth…) Your backup knot is normally just an overhand knot or clove hitch clipped to a biner on your harness where you either tie a new knot when you get to the end of the loop the first knot made or multiple knots to the biner so that you can quickly unclip the clove hitch as you're climbing so you don't have to impede the flow of climbing (somewhat). |
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I can see why the continuous loop method is very nice for big wall. Especially if needing to tag. On easier or less gear intensive routes like nose or salathe is it reasonable to not need to tag? |
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How about a SOLOAID? |
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mike gibson wrote: Here is a new option that looks like a good possibility but it wont be available until next spring or summer. wildcountry.com/revo/That thing looks pretty cool. I have a Silent Partner and it's been great but my only complaints are bulk and weight and it also tends to put a pretty good kink in the rope at times. The Revo doesn't appear to have any levers that could be held open in a fall like a Grigri but back up knots take care of that. I'm looking forward to trying the Revo for rope soling when it comes out. |
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jlind wrote:I can see why the continuous loop method is very nice for big wall. Especially if needing to tag. On easier or less gear intensive routes like nose or salathe is it reasonable to not need to tag?FYI, you can use the continuous loop without tagging at all. Personally, I never tag and prefer to just climb heavy with everything I'll need when I leave the belay. The benefit of connecting the lead line to the haul line is the ability to not carry extra rope on you when you climb (both the lead and the haul line) and you can attach additional crap to the connection point should you want to pull up once you've reached the belay. |
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Before i forget. BIG THANK YOU to all of you guys for giving me a hand. You have been awesome about providing useful links and insight. I have asked questions similar to these on other forums and have been told that i am too amateur to perform these techniques if i have to ask. Which is of course bs. So, Thanks again. You guys rock. |
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No idea what Libecki uses; obviously something that works for him. What I do for free lead rope solo... |
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Thanks Healyje. I am currently doing something very similar to you for free lead solo. I Dont have an eddy. I am patiently waiting for the new grigri and the revo to come to market so i can test them out. Like you i am not using backup knots for the free lead as they dont seem to be compatible with my system. I do understand the risk i am taking. For aid i will be using backup knots with my grigri as there is no excuse not to. |