In search of roof cracks
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Recently moved from TN to CO for work and long routes...however I find myself missing the steep roof cracks that abound in the south. |
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You may find some in the Voo. I'm not super familiar with the front range but there's bound to be some in eldo or BoCan. We've got some steep cracks at east animas down here in durango, some with small roofs. It's not gonna be like T-wall, though. I also remember seeing a lot of roof cracks along the green river (UT), especially in cataract canyon, if you're interested in a mixed river and climbing expedition. |
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I'd look into the South Platte. Wunch's dihedral might interest you. Turkey rocks has a lot of cracks as well but I'm really not familiar with the South Platte in general. Vedauwoo will have some harder routes and its not all ow. Good steep routes that come to mind are hung like a horse and hesitation blues both easier 11's for the voo. There's some good bouldering too: beer crack, nats 3 star roof, and desiderata. There's an area called the roof ranch...might be worth checking out. I haven't gotten there yet. But with all this being said it's getting rather chilly up there so idk maybe start building a tick list? The South Platte it's good through the winter from my understanding but it really helps to have a 4x4 or HC vehicle. |
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And if you do make to the Moab area the crackhouse might be worth checking out. |
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Thanks for the replies folks, keep it comin! |
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If you do a Zion trip check out organasm. It's got a 10-15ftish roof crack of hands at a solid 5.11 for pitch 2 and then a 12b finger crack for pitch 3. I've only aided it, but it's on my "go back and free" list. Nice treat right by touchstone, moonlight and monkey finger |
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There are some of these to develop here in CRNP, but a real gem is: |
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Try my route at the first tier of the Avalon in Boulder Canyon. |
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You'll have a pretty hard time finding much. The 'roof crack' on Wunsch's isn't a pure roof. Nothing in Boulder Canyon. |
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Turkey Tail has some nice looking roof lines. |
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I gots to show you around Boulder Canyon Ray! |
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Vedauwoo has a nice concentration of roof cracks and otherwise steep cracks. The really good routes at Vedauwoo feature a shortish length of off-sized crack which leans, overhangs, and/or curves about. Thus, despite only having a few pure roof cracks, the place is relatively stacked with steep crack climbing. If the routes do not satisfy you, you can also explore the boulders there, as there are dozens of 15+ foot roof crack boulder problems. Plenty of those cracks are fists or narrower, though plenty of them are either pure offwidth or have some offwidth pod or something to get through. |
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Cathedral Spires in the SPlatte has a few. There's a hard 11a in that area but I've forgotten the formation and the name. Most notably there's Bad JuJu 12a: mountainproject.com/v/10654… This finish is W I D E. |
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Flatirons: Super Power(5.11+), Far Out(5.10+), Under the Influence (5.11), Anthem to the Sun (5.11+). Eldo: Bacon and Ergs (5.11), Final Roof variation on Psychosis(5.11-) Splatte: Shear Shark Attack (5.12) That is all I can think of for now, and nothing listed here is less than a body-length of roof or steep overhang. I'm sure I'll think of a few more later. See some photos below, meanwhile. These are on MP.com except SSA, which didn't exist yet at the time I did SSA, so I didn't write it up. |
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Tony B, awesome submissions! Thanks guys! This should keep me busy for a while. |
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Almost forgot. Acrophelia and Acrophobia in the SSV! WISH I had pics on that one. If you do it, take a photog with you! |
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Tony B wrote:Almost forgot. Acrophelia and Acrophobia in the SSV! WISH I had pics on that one. If you do it, take a photog with you!Hey Tony, pardon my ignorance but what is SSV? |
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Is Anaconda a roof crack?
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Sam Latone 1 wrote:Recently moved from TN to CO for work and long routes...As a fellow southern roofer who made the move westward I can empathize and sympathize. It's the compromise though and you just learn to enjoy what's offered in the new locale even if there is always that deep sense of something missing decades later. |