Ask A Badass: Nalle Hukkataival // Chance to win a BD Pipedream pack

Hey All,

We're back with AABA, our interview series presented jointly with Black Diamond. For this edition, we've got Nalle Hukkataival, the Finnish bouldering phenom who recently sent his four-year project which he's now calling Burden of Dreams, a proposed V17/9a (!!).

From training to grades (V17!?) to what's next, post your questions below, and Nalle will choose several to answer next week. He'll also award a Black Diamond Pipedream pack to the person who asks favorite question.

While you were working Burden of Dreams, were there times where you doubted whether the moves were even possible for you? Are there any specific methods/training you used (mental or physical) to overcome those doubts, stay psyched and keep pushing?

I lived in Finland for 2 years, mostly around Helsinki and in Jyväskylä. From what I saw the climbing resources there were very limited (I knew of one small bouldering crag in Mellunmäki and I think 2 climbing gyms). Plus it is freezing there at least half of the year. Aivan jäässä. In that sort of environment how did you get so involved in climbing and what sort of innovations did you come up with to train so effectively at those extreme grades?

And by the way, onneksi olkoon!

Howdy!

What book do you often recommend or gift folks?

Mason Roberts wrote:Howdy! What book do you often recommend or gift folks?

Having pushed the limits of bouldering to new levels, do you think there is a limit to what humans will be able to scale or is it all in the mind and ones approach to climbing?

I just sent the green problem in the gym after weeks of trying, how long do I have before you flash it and then downgrade it?

Hi Nalle. Big fan! why is Finish techno so 1997?

Two questions: First, are you planning to revisit the Sisu Project now that Lappnor went down? Second, what V15's do you think need to be upgraded to V16

What is your favorite easy boulder problem? By easy I mean V0-V4.

Besides "Burden of Dreams", what have you done in your climbing career that you are most proud of?

I am sure it is impossible to answer this wholly but what is the single most important gift that climbing has given you?

Congrats of recent send of Burden of Dreams. How do you think the lack of second ascents on some of the hardest boulder problems affects the progression of grades moving forward? Is there a less motivation to send hard problems that have already seen a first ascent?

In the same way routes of the mid to latter half of the last century hit a "dam" in terms of grading and people not wanting to rate something as being the next level, do you think cutting edge bouldering of today is experiencing the same phenomenon and that possibly V17 or even 18 has already been climbed(at least terms of future perspectives)?

Moi Nalle!! Do you think you will ever bring your badassery to big walls, or the alpine environment?

Kippis!!!

Nalle,

You've clearly put a great deal of effort into sending many of the hardest boulder problems on the planet. The same goes for many of the sport's greatest athletes; the vast amount of time and effort put into single projects.

Do you think the method of long-term projecting is best suited for the elite and those wishing to push the boundaries of the sport, or does it have a place in lower levels of climbing? In other words, did you progress by doing many short-term projects, or have you always gravitated towards goals at or beyond your current physical/mental limit?

Congrats on V17!

climbing friend,

how do you develop your crushing strength?

if you do training of fingerboard, do you find max crushing single hangs superior or submaximal sets of repeaters?

Do Fins believe in trolls? What is good about Sweden? If you weren't a climber you would participate in what sport? Now that you have obtained the highest grade ever for a Boulder, will you do the same with ropes and ice?

Whats your favorite way to wipe your S#it in the woods? Smooth rock, snow ball, grass, TP?

First of all, congratulations on the send!

Looking back to your career as a professional climber. Is there something that you would do differently now when you are older, wiser, and more experienced; any lessons learned?

How do you see your role evolving within the climbing community, let's say in the next 10 years? Still climbing at the cutting edge or focusing on less physically demanding tasks, such as becoming a gym owner.

If you were just a weekend warrior like most of the rest of us mere mortals, where would you choose to live and what would your day job be?

What does it feel like to downgrade a Paul Robinson problem?

Hi Nalle,

Up until now, it seemed like the progression of hard bouldering involved stacking more and more hard moves back to back in a power endurance test. Burden of Dreams breaks that trend.

Was Burden of Dreams harder mentally than other projects, because the individual moves were so much harder (making the process of working the route more uncertain)? Do you think Burden of Dreams will inspire more shorter boulder problems to be developed in the realm of 8C and harder boulders?