Too much anxiety about leading
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I've been climbing for about a year but I've gotten more anxious about climbing, specifically leading, lately. I'll make some cool climbing plans then the lead-terror hits and I'll fret about it and think i'd rather just be hiking. |
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A few possible answers: |
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I went through a short phase like this a couple years back. I guess your strategy would depend on what your climbing goals are. Do you want to climb as hard as you can? Fun, easier multipitch stuff? Stuff that is just aethetically cool? |
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We all know the answer is to get experience taking safe lead falls. Do it in the gym first. Take progressively higher falls. It is a little unnerving at first. Remind yourself it's an irrational fear and face it. |
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i heard golf is a nice transition |
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Lots of people have this problem. Some more than others. Look up "lead climbing fear" on the web and you'll find lots of advice. Pick and choose what suits you best from that. |
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Every time I wake up for a climb, I think I should make something up to cancel it. I get more and more scared as I approach and then when I start up, it all kinda dissipates because I no longer have the luxury to reflect on the danger generally, I have to start solving small problems, like the next move or three and where the next gear will go. Nowadays I try to remember that every "climb" can be broken down this, and that I haven't yet truly regretted a lead. |
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Emmett Wynn wrote:Every time I wake up for a climb, I think I should make something up to cancel it. I get more and more scared as I approach and then when I start up, it all kinda dissipates because I no longer have the luxury to reflect on the danger generally, I have to start solving small problems, like the next move or three and where the next gear will go. Nowadays I try to remember that every "climb" can be broken down this, and that I haven't yet truly regretted a lead.Thanks Emmett. I've got some plans to do some easy climbs this weekend and I hope this is how they play out. Also thanks everyone else as well. |
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Climb significantly stronger than you lead (this is a band-aid)
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Your thought patterns have a lot to do with your anxiety. You are pushing your own buttons by entertaining these thoughts. |
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You haven't lead enough or taken enough falls, and probably don't do either very often. |
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Tom Sherman wrote:Climb significantly stronger than you lead (this is a band-aid) Only bring yourself into safe headspace, don't let the needle go into the red, i.e. if you lead 5.6/5.7 take a break and only lead 5.4 Climb with more confidence inspiring partners Wrap-up and address other anxieties in ALL aspects of your life (this can't be stressed enough) and, as all others are saying Take safe lead falls and get yourself accustomed. *this is all coming from a person who is scared of leading, doesn't even take lead falls in the gym, but tries pushing it. I took a lead-slip this weekend and was quickly caught. Not sure if I was even on level with my pro, but my feet blew and next thing I know I was gently rested on the rope! The best part was when I heard and felt that shake-ily placed nut set!I lead some really relaxed soft 5.8s last week that weren't scary but a few weeks before that I was in the "forgetting to breath and deathgrip on everything" mode on similiar terrain. Does anyone know any good outdoor sport 5.4s near denver? I'll be there for work soon. I'd love to do some fun easy climbs but seems like climbing starts at 5.10. |
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Check out east colfax in clear creek. Lots of easy routes. Climbing is all about enjoying yourself and the process. And when your head is working against you it's the worst. We've all been there, and most of us have found our own creative way around it. Me personally, I started soloing to put lead climbing Into perspective. But that's just me and my own head game. |
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Kiz wrote:Check out east colfax in clear creek. Lots of easy routes. Climbing is all about enjoying yourself and the process.I agree that E Colfax is loaded with easy routes but almost all of them would actually suck to fall on as they are almost all significantly less than vertical. Nothing enhances a fear of falling like your foot slipping on that 5.7 and sliding down a slab. |
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I would say try to figure out what it is exactly that is freaking you out while leading. |
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Get with a partner that'll push you. Gym climbing provides more comfort with its colored holds, tape, music, and padded floors. Climb hard in the gym. |
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Lots of good advice here. As someone who has a history of anxiety in and outside of climbing, I can relate. I generally find that if my anxiety outside of climbing is peaking (ebb and flow) it normally raises my anxiety while climbing. If i can reign in my overall anxiety, I notice an improvement in climbing. That being said, i have found a few climbing specific things to help.
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Some guy in passing once mentioned offhandedly that "it's all mental pro anyway." While I would never suggest not making protection as bomber as reasonable nor expecting to never take a fall, but I found that if I'm about to lead something that is within my range (not pushing the grade) that this little phrase has helped me to loosen up the fear of falling and climb on. |
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ARonchetti wrote:I would say try to figure out what it is exactly that is freaking you out while leading. For me my usual belayer is a good deal lighter than me so I'm afraid to fall and hurt her.I have the same issue with my regular climbing partner. For the OP I would suggest the Clip and Fall technique. I just heard about it, basically you climb to a bolt, clip it and then take a fall. Its a shorter controlled fall but it get you used to falling. I personally find the shorter falls to cause more anxiety than the longer falls. Climb smart and climb often. |
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Yep, positive thinking always works. Oprah and Dr Phil and The Secret said so, so it must be true. |