Petzl Attache Unlocks In Use
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I have a Petzl Attache Herabiner (like pictured below) that I generally use to clip into the guide ring on my ATC-style belay device while giving a guide belay. This weekend I noticed on a multipitch that it was unlocked while I was taking up my second. I thought "Hmm, strange, I thought I locked that" so I locked it up, and at the next pitch I explicitly made a point in my head to make sure it was locked, which is quite easy with the red marking. Then, after a bit of belaying, I noticed it unlocked again. It happened a total of 4 times on that multipitch, and then multiple times throughout the weekend while giving a top belay. I'm using a Positron-style locker in the meantime. |
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Don't have the Herabiner, but my Attache 3D's will unscrew/unlock occassionally unless I torque them down pretty tightly. Oddly, I never have that problem on my old-style Attache. |
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I have used those types of carabiners for 5 or 6 years, and I do have some of the HERA variety as well. I never had the issue that you describe. Here are 2 things you should try: |
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I've been using one for 15+ years, never had that problem. |
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mine did that for a bit when they were new, but they have broken in and don't do it anymore |
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Hmm, I'll have to keep an eye out then... The one thing I notice is that the gate is much smoother and takes less to unlock than the BD lockers so I figured it was just that they were more susceptible to opening. I'll just take an extra second to think about the direction of contact and all as mentioned... |
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Nolan Huther wrote:Hmm, I'll have to keep an eye out then... The one thing I notice is that the gate is much smoother and takes less to unlock than the BD lockers so I figured it was just that they were more susceptible to opening. I'll just take an extra second to think about the direction of contact and all as mentioned...This is why I stopped using screw-gate lockers for belaying (and pretty much anything else) 15 years ago. |
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Screw locks sometimes unscrew due to vibrations. |
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When I started climbing, I was taught "Screw down, so you don't screw up" |
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Biff it out, start again, sometimes biners are very slightly faulty. I am getting fussy these days though. I always weight test screw and other lock gates in unlock or unscrewed mode because some times they will open when weighted, especially Black Diamond ones. If they do then out the door they go. Dunno if it is because I can't handle the run outs anymore or what. Or maybe because I have been so close to death so many times that I should probably give up while I am ahead. |
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I haven't had a complete unlock, but I did notice the locking ring on my New style Attache (formerly the 3D) can be a bit loose after a belay. |
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I have seen many unlocked lockers over the years. Some from the rope running over the gate, some from simply forgetting to lock it. |
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Stormannorman wrote:I always weight test screw and other lock gates in unlock or unscrewed mode because some times they will open when weighted, especially Black Diamond ones.Do you mean magically open on their own? Or do you mean that you can open them when they are unlocked and weighted? If the latter, biners are supposed to be able to be opened when weighted. If they didn't do that, aid climbing would be nearly impossible. |
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Weird. |
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The simple solution, as others have mentioned, is to always orient the carabiner such that the screw gate tightens with gravity. i.e. point the open end of the gate down. |
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Marc801 wrote: Do you mean magically open on their own? Or do you mean that you can open them when they are unlocked and weighted? If the latter, biners are supposed to be able to be opened when weighted. If they didn't do that, aid climbing would be nearly impossible.You weight it and the gate will open slightly due to the pressure. |
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I have one of those I use for belay sometimes. I noticed the same phenomenon and after keeping a careful eye on it I found it was being unlocked by the brake strand being drawn over it in certain stances. Just brushing it and causing a slight turn. This can be mitigated by changing the orientation of the gate or adjusting my stance. |
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Yes, i have had Attaches and ALL other locking biners come unlocked MANY times. |
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Start being cognizant of how you clip the biner so that you ensure the rope runs in the direction that closes the screw and does.not open it. The rope can unlock any biner, the attache might be more likely to do this with its oversized screw, but proper management can avoid this situation altogether with any biner. |
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I've noticed this too but I still love my attaches. I have yet to see a critical Biner placement come entirely unscrewed during a single pitch, so I just check before I/follower start a pitch. |