Sierra Ice Climbing Beta and Partners
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Hey, does anyone have info/experience on ice climbing in the Sierra between now and May? I'm talking about areas besides Lee Vining. Trying to train for a potential trip to the Alaska Range while living in LA haha. It seems like there's got to be some awesome ice when the conditions are right in the winter, but I imagine a lot of the roads are closed making access difficult. |
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Most of the alpine ice climbing in the Sierra's is now dead due to climate change. See this rather depressing blog post |
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Ice also forms around the Whitney Portal area, but not sure what kind of weather conditions need to exist for it to form/be accessible. |
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climbing coastie wrote:Ice also forms around the Whitney Portal area, but not sure what kind of weather conditions need to exist for it to form/be accessible.First thing... it must be cold. LA is a tough place to live and be a Ice Climber.... learn how to make the drive to Canada in one push. |
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Yeah, that Sierra Mountain Guides blog is pretty depressing. That's kinda what I was expecting, but just wanted to see what people know. It seems like waterfall ice should still form in the high country during the winter certain times, but knowing where and when it's good and getting past snow covered roads would be a problem. |
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Dana couloir is in now. North peak is in now. Mendel couloirs were in during the month of July (yes ice nine was in this year) probably not anymore. U notch V notch and Clyde couloirs are out of condition currently, but were in during July. Who said high Sierra ice was nonexistent!?!? |
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Matt Cornell wrote:Dana couloir is in now.Really? I had heard the top was melted out, and rock fall was severe and that a couple was helicopters off not so long ago after being hit by rock. If you have been up it recently, I would love to hear about what the conditions were like! |
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C Brooks, I soloed the Dana couloir a few weeks ago and soloed it yesterday as well. It is in great shape. Solid blue ice. Sure the top 200ft are melted out but its just a little loose scree. No dry tooling just 3rd class scrambling. I did not see a singe rock fall the two times I climbed it. Even while it got sun exposure. Always wear a helmet. |
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C Brooks wrote: a couple was helicopters off not so long ago after being hit by rock.Where did you hear this??? |
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If I remember correctly, I climbed North Dome on Sep. 17. When about half way up a large heli flew directly overhead straight in the direction of Dana from the west. I don't know anymore about it though. |
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From Mono country Sherifs office - |
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Bryan Hains wrote: Ice bouldering in the Donner train tunnels FTW! Bryan, awesome pics! Looking for partners for this upcoming season. In SF and have gear. |
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Hi there! I am just getting into Ice climbing and Have climbed some ice in the Truckee area and always looking for partners! |
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Evan Borders wrote: I’m also in SF and looking to get a decent amount of ice climbing in this season! whats your contact info? |
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Awesome photos. I would be down for coming up on my 4 day weekends (I get one a month) for swinging some tools. Tough transition from living in Colorado/Alaska to living in Barstow, CA. I figure there isn’t much worth heading down this way in terms of ice. |