Belay devices for multipitch
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Hey everyone, |
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Don't complicate things. ATC Guide. |
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If I'm trad climbing, I tend to use a tube style device for the reason you mentioned. If I'm climbing choss I'll make a judgement call between the alpine smart and a tuber because of rockfall potential. If a factor 2 fall is even remotely a possibility I'll use a munter hitch so I don't have to brake with my arm at chest level. |
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I don't care what device my partner uses and he/they don't care what I use. We just want each other to be attentive and proficient belayers. That's the most important trait, in my opinion. |
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If I'm not worried about hauling a ton of extraneous stuff, and it's all bolted belaya, I'll use the gri-gri and pack an atc too. Otherwise it's the atc (guide) all the way. |
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Megajul. One device to rule them all. |
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FrankPS wrote:e don't worry about the extra impact on the upper piece from using an assisted-braking belay device (Cinch, Gri Gri, etc.) We leave those worries to the masses on Mountain Project to debate!The tests showing 50% increase in force does not sway you at all? |
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But if an aid soloist falls off el cap after ripping a piece, does the grigri still catch them? |
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Wow. Extra 2 kn is significant on small gear, and the rest of the results are not negligible. That's an interesting trend John Wilder. I find the opposite to be the case; I have yet to see a Grigri used for lead at the local trad area (Devil's Lake). |
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Grigri for belaying, even in the alpine. 160 grams. about the weight of a #2 or #3 BD Cam. |
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My partner and I both use GriGris for belaying the leader and for belaying the second up. We both also carry MegaJuls, mainly for rope+tag rappels. Belaying a second on the anchor with a GriGri is so nice. We use the Beal Opera 8.5 or a Mammut Serenity 8.7 if we want a beefier rope. |
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I use a gri gri or the mega jewel for a long hike. I use skinny cord 9.1 almsot exclusively. The increase in load i think is negligable. Espechially on a rope with a low impact force rating. I climb trad on thin and bad gear and fall on it and it holds most of the time. |
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Brian Scoggins wrote:If I'm not worried about hauling a ton of extraneous stuff, and it's all bolted belaya, I'll use the gri-gri and pack an atc too. Otherwise it's the atc (guide) all the way. Had nothing to do with lowering the impact force (technique wins over device on that front, and that's hard to perform at a hanging belay regardless), and everything to do with surety of catch while I'm trying to drink water (or whatever) at the belay.I pretty much completely agree with this. |
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I really like the cinch for belaying up a 2nd, almost zero effort to pull slack and it locks instantly. BTW this is the only thing I use the cinch for. We will carry gigi/ovo for the rappel. The leader usually gets belayed with a grigri. I would rather spend the energy carrying the heavier cinch than spend the energy pulling slack through something with a lot of friction. |
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I would expect that the majority of gear is ripping due to poor placements. |
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Rick Blair wrote: The tests showing 50% increase in force does not sway you at all?No, it doesn't. I'm more likely to get dropped from belayer error, or have a piece fail due to pilot error, than to have a correctly placed piece fail due to a correctly used gri-gri. Marginal gear is a whole other kettle of fish. When I start climbing above truly marginal gear, in a scenario where a fall is a reasonable possibilitu, then I'll reassess. |
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DMM Pivot. ATC style but better. |
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I would assume that this test was done with an anchored GriGri to allow measurement, which would take dynamism ( belayer movement ) out of the test which would exaggerate the forces in the results. |
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For me the grigri is almost always worth the extra weight. I'd say that they are quite prevalent in trad areas I've been to in NC and CO.
The only time I don't bring one is if the amount of hiking is far greater than the amount of technical climbing or if I am climbing on doubles. I heartily agree that if gear blows, that's the kind of time where having the Grigri would be very reassuring to everyone involved. |
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Here is a review I did on the DMM Pivot. It is focused on the Pivot, but you may find some useful information... |