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Plums
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Sep 15, 2016
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Sep 2016
· Points: 15
If it means you don't have to carry a big cam on your rack? If it means less runout on the pitch? If it means you don't have to place gear in so-so rock? Basically, if it increases convenience or reduces risk (to some undefined but small'ish degree), is it okay to bolt next to a crack in Yosemite? Would like to hear the opinion of anyone who has an opinion, and particularly anyone who has done or is putting up what I hear referred to as "modern routes" in the Valley. We've done a few of these new routes over the last few seasons, and have come to wonder where the majority opinion among Valley climbers falls. Not talking anchor bolts, though there's a legitimate question there as well. Asking about mid-pitch lead bolts next to cracks that would take gear. So what say you: is that kosher now?
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Cory B
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Sep 15, 2016
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Fresno, CA
· Joined Feb 2015
· Points: 2,577
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Jason Todd
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Sep 15, 2016
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Cody, WY
· Joined Apr 2012
· Points: 1,114
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Matt Carroll
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Sep 15, 2016
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Van
· Joined Dec 2013
· Points: 249
god I hope thats not kosher
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WadeM
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Sep 15, 2016
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Auburn, Ca
· Joined Apr 2010
· Points: 481
Plums: Member Since: Sep 15, 2016 Nuff said
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Morgan Patterson
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Sep 15, 2016
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NH
· Joined Oct 2009
· Points: 8,960
WadeM wrote:Plums: Member Since: Sep 15, 2016 Nuff said Always the first check i do...
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Leify Guy
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Sep 15, 2016
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jul 2013
· Points: 367
Morgan Patterson wrote: Always the first check i do... The idea behind this thread screams hellenor, however, there weren't enough grammatical errors to convince me...
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Micah Klesick
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Sep 15, 2016
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Charlotte, NC
· Joined Aug 2013
· Points: 3,971
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NeilB
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Sep 15, 2016
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Tehachapi, CA
· Joined Apr 2014
· Points: 45
But what do you guys think about Trump? Clinton? ... Syrian refugees? Gender identity?
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Cory B
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Sep 15, 2016
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Fresno, CA
· Joined Feb 2015
· Points: 2,577
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Doug Hemken
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Sep 15, 2016
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Madison, WI
· Joined Oct 2004
· Points: 13,680
I like the way he concedes that this question *might* just apply to anchors as well - very nice nuance to this troll. It's like presenting just the right fly to the trout, you know?
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Jacob Staelin
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Sep 15, 2016
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Feb 2016
· Points: 0
NeilB wrote:But what do you guys think about Trump? Clinton? ... Syrian refugees? Gender identity? I think Trump is the best candidate for climbers due to the new route opportunities on the Mexican border wall.
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Chuck Becker
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Sep 15, 2016
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Portland, OR
· Joined Mar 2015
· Points: 30
I'm curious what routes you're talking about specifically. The only one I can think of is the 4th pitch of The Great Escape on Chapel Wall - fully bolted TCU size crack. I'd think that pitch in its current state would be highly controversial in a place like Yosemite. The only reason I can think of to bolt that pitch, that makes any sense to me, is that it wouldn't get get climbed much if left unbolted, i.e. most climbers would rap after completing the 3rd pitch since they'd prefer to not haul up a rack for only one pitch.
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Kevin Mokracek
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Sep 15, 2016
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Burbank
· Joined Apr 2012
· Points: 342
Pretty much the standard now in modern climbing. Double Cross in Jtree was the forerunner in this new modern protection philosophy but it keeps getting chopped, BASTARDS!!!
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djh860
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Sep 15, 2016
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Dec 2014
· Points: 110
Shouldn't you ask Erik Sloan the self appointed bolt King? Just stirring the pot
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Morgan Patterson
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Sep 15, 2016
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NH
· Joined Oct 2009
· Points: 8,960
djh860 wrote:Shouldn't you ask Erik Sloan the self appointed bolt King? Just stirring the pot Woot Woot!!!11111 derp
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Plums
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Sep 15, 2016
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Sep 2016
· Points: 15
bolt pin bolt Assuming the above increased either safety or convenience to a degree - can avoid carrying big cam (pic 1), can avoid finding placement among so-so flakes (pic 3), don't have to run the rope or risk bigger fall (pic 1) - are they kosher by Yosemite standard in your opinion? I have no wish to flame any FAists, whose time and toil I respect, and I ain't mad. With this thread, I'm trying to gauge whether Valley climbers feel that "modern" routes are exempt from what most (I think? maybe I'm wrong) would consider to be Yosemite tradition/style.
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don'tchuffonme
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Sep 15, 2016
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jan 2014
· Points: 26
No. Not acceptable. But don't go ripping shit out. If Wootboy has taught us anything, it's that people are going to act with impunity and do whatever they damned well please. Also, there is no way, unless you have the FA tell you themselves, that you could know whether or not the FA bolted that or not. What route, what pitch?
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Ted Pinson
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Sep 15, 2016
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Chicago, IL
· Joined Jul 2014
· Points: 252
Uh...couldn't this logic apply to ANY trad climb?
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20 kN
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Sep 15, 2016
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Feb 2009
· Points: 1,346
The Nose has had a bolt right next to the #2 Stovelegs for years.
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mediocre
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Sep 15, 2016
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jul 2013
· Points: 0
NeilB wrote:But what do you guys think about Trump? Clinton? ... Syrian refugees? Gender identity? Trump would totally bolt a crack. Hillary's been bolting cracks for years but always denies it. And those fucking syrian refugees are a bunch of grid bolters. Theres a crack joke related to gender identity but I'm just not quite getting there.
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