Line X

Has anyone sprayed Line x or rhino lining on their tools? Might attempt it, but wondering if anyone has done it and how well ice does on freezing the grip and making it a shaft of ice, or if its a good to go solution.

Been doing the re wrap and grip tape for years, just wondering. I know some have talked about it, but can't find any details about it, which may mean its a bad idea...

Gets pretty slick when it's wet. PlastiDip is a much better option. Stays nice and tacky when it's warm or cold, wet or dry.

If you're looking to protect your tools from rock...say while mix climbing then I'd suggest the rhino liner. But that's for protection, not grip. Like stated above PlastiDip is where it's at for grip.

Is the plastidip easy to remove if you end up not liking it?

I haven't used plastidip on my tools, but I did the wheels of my car with it. One of its biggest benefits is how easy it is to apply and remove... really awesome stuff! I never considered putting it on tools, but I might try it out this year.

I have two O-rings that I slide a wide piece of heat shrink tubing over. It's pretty sticky, doesn't peel, has good texture, and is super easy to fix if you tear it (mine usually lasts several seasons though). Gotta have a tool that the pinky guard comes off in order to slide it on.

I've busted my ass in the back of a wet Line-X or Rhino lined truck so many times. It seems like a bad idea.

Ah, thanks for the input. Kinda thought it might get slippery. Usually do the tape thing, but was trying to figure out another alternative. Anyone know what they spray on those reparto axes?

Call Grivel and ask.

Or just use plasti-dip. It's great.

Ice4life wrote: Ah, thanks for the input. Kinda thought it might get slippery. Usually do the tape thing, but was trying to figure out another alternative. Anyone know what they spray on those reparto axes?

Bringing this thread back to life. I just peeled off a rubberized grips from a pair of reparto tools last night. It appears a previous owner ground some of the pommel and trigger rest so this grip wasn't original. It did have much more texture than a plasti dip or but not as aggressive at the original reparto texture grip. I'll share progress photos but anybody have good suggestions? Planning to use tape but I like experimenting, particularly if I can achieve good results. 

Cheers.
Jason

Ive spent countless hours trying all sorts of stuff, just for the fun of it.
Plastidip works well but can sometimes tear too easily. Might be work putting a layer of hockey tape, then plastidip over it, that might be the solution to that problem.
Also, plastidip in the can is much different than plastidip in aerosol. This is the same as flex seal. Flex seal in the can is wildly superior for the purposes we're talking about, compared to the aerosol version.

Thing that I found works best is buy some beach sand, mix it in with your plastidip (can) and then paint it on to the desired areas. and really it takes two or three good coats to hold. 

alpinejason wrote:

Bringing this thread back to life. I just peeled off a rubberized grips from a pair of reparto tools last night. It appears a previous owner ground some of the pommel and trigger rest so this grip wasn't original. It did have much more texture than a plasti dip or but not as aggressive at the original reparto texture grip. I'll share progress photos but anybody have good suggestions? Planning to use tape but I like experimenting, particularly if I can achieve good results. 

Cheers.
Jason

Just use old bike tire inner tubes.  Wrap it tightly from the bottom up and secure the end with electrical tape.  The rubber tube and ribbing provides excellent grip even when wet.  It is also very inexpensive compared to grip tape.

Zac St. Jules wrote: Ive spent countless hours trying all sorts of stuff, just for the fun of it.
Plastidip works well but can sometimes tear too easily. Might be work putting a layer of hockey tape, then plastidip over it, that might be the solution to that problem.
Also, plastidip in the can is much different than plastidip in aerosol. This is the same as flex seal. Flex seal in the can is wildly superior for the purposes we're talking about, compared to the aerosol version.

Thing that I found works best is buy some beach sand, mix it in with your plastidip (can) and then paint it on to the desired areas. and really it takes two or three good coats to hold. 

This is good info. I'll plan to try that. It maybe be what was applied to to these tools to begin with, see photo below. I'm planning a full resto on these tools but acquired them in pretty rough shape. Previous owner/owners coated them with various epoxy, adhesive, spray foam, etc. Only effective method for removing the material is heat gun and scraping. I have one tool stripped and looks pretty good, maybe another evening or two, I'll share a progress photo later. 

swaghole wrote:

Just use old bike tire inner tubes.  Wrap it tightly from the bottom up and secure the end with electrical tape.  The rubber tube and ribbing provides excellent grip even when wet.  It is also very inexpensive compared to grip tape.

I appreciate where you're coming from I strongly disagree with this advice. A roll of temflex tape is $5 (22ft roll). I guess there are people and places that would call that expensive but I think the usefulness of the the tape out weighs the tubes anyway. How can you stretch the tube over the upper pommel on a modern tool? Or the tools I shared a photo of in my previous post? 

alpinejason wrote:

This is good info. I'll plan to try that. It maybe be what was applied to to these tools to begin with, see photo below. I'm planning a full resto on these tools but acquired them in pretty rough shape. Previous owner/owners coated them with various epoxy, adhesive, spray foam, etc. Only effective method for removing the material is heat gun and scraping. I have one tool stripped and looks pretty good, maybe another evening or two, I'll share a progress photo later. 

My God that looks awful. Hopefully those clean up nicely. 

Rescue Tape works great. 

Zac St. Jules wrote:

My God that looks awful. Hopefully those clean up nicely. 

One of them cleaned up. This is probably 3hr of effort. At least 1hr monkeying around with different solvents to no avail. If chemists has any suggestions, I'm all ears. I tried soaked in acetone and didn't do anything. Heat gun and scraping, while time consuming has been the most effective but would like to wipe clean the final remnants. 

The Raven wrote: Rescue Tape works great. 

+1 for plumbers rescue tape. It bonds to itself (no glue residue on tools afterwards to clean off for a new tape job), is lightly padded, hydrophobic, and remarkably grippy even when wet. It is easy to put a layer of athletic tape underneath if you'd like to fatten your shaft. Plastidip and similar sorta suck imo. Electrical tape also sucks big time. 

Alex Styp wrote:

+1 for plumbers rescue tape. It bonds to itself (no glue residue on tools afterwards to clean off for a new tape job), is lightly padded, hydrophobic, and remarkably grippy even when wet. It is easy to put a layer of athletic tape underneath if you'd like to fatten your shaft. Plastidip and similar sorta suck imo. Electrical tape also sucks big time. 

And comes in a variety of great colors ;)

Alex Styp wrote:

+1 for plumbers rescue tape. It bonds to itself (no glue residue on tools afterwards to clean off for a new tape job), is lightly padded, hydrophobic, and remarkably grippy even when wet. It is easy to put a layer of athletic tape underneath if you'd like to fatten your shaft. Plastidip and similar sorta suck imo. Electrical tape also sucks big time. 

I'll disagree with this one a bit. Plumbers rescue tape, especially the fat stuff, slowly warps and 'melts' away. This is only really a big deal if you're frequently on very steep terrain and are putting alot of torque and shit onto the tools. Its not something that will happen on less than vertical/vertical terrain. If its the thinner rubber tape youre talking about, its quite good, but definitely requires some hockey tape underneath it to keep it from tearing. 

Also, my guess as to why the person put the linex on the shaft itself was to prevent whatever tape is used to wrap the tool, from tearing. The linex provides a better surface for the tape to adhere too than the aluminum. What I cant figure out is why people grind off the second position pinky rest on these tools. Yours is the second set ive seen like that. 

Zac St. Jules wrote:

I'll disagree with this one a bit. Plumbers rescue tape, especially the fat stuff, slowly warps and 'melts' away. This is only really a big deal if you're frequently on very steep terrain and are putting alot of torque and shit onto the tools. Its not something that will happen on less than vertical/vertical terrain. If its the thinner rubber tape youre talking about, its quite good, but definitely requires some hockey tape underneath it to keep it from tearing. 

Interesting. I've never had that happen. But I kinda suck at ice climbing. Probably why.