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Paul Davies
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Aug 27, 2016
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Dec 2013
· Points: 0
Hey folks! I'm hoping to get over the pond to the states next fall and pop my American trad climbing cherry! My experience is UK sea cliff climbing at about E3 (5.11??) fiddly gear on wires mostly and half ropes. My question is where to go? Where would you recommend.? I'm not interested in sport climbing but don't really know where I should go in the US. Utah looks amazing and the black in Colorado looks super adventurous. Yosemite screams big wall which I'm not so keen on unless someone wants to guide me and (never spent a night on a wall' plus 7 pitches is about the heighest I've climbed. Any advice would be appreciate. Aiming for fall of 2017. Cheers. Paul. Ps: a partner call may well be in order for this trip :)
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FrankPS
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Aug 27, 2016
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Atascadero, CA
· Joined Nov 2009
· Points: 276
Where should you climb in the US? You're going to get fifty different answers (with some repeats). Maybe narrow it down a bit. You have plenty of time to do more research outside of MP.
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Phil Sakievich
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Aug 27, 2016
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Aug 2014
· Points: 131
For fall check out the desert SW! Red Rocks, Moab, Indian Creek, Zion, Sedona, JTree etc
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Ted Pinson
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Aug 27, 2016
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Chicago, IL
· Joined Jul 2014
· Points: 252
Don't forget Colorado. You'd have a blast in Boulder - Eldorado Canyon, Flatirons, etc. Red Rock in Nevada is also pretty incredible, and easy to get to (cheap flight to Vegas then 20 min drive).
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Marc801 C
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Aug 27, 2016
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Sandy, Utah
· Joined Feb 2014
· Points: 65
Ted Pinson wrote:...and easy to get to (cheap flight to Vegas then 20 min drive). Actually coming from the UK, fares to Vegas are about the same as to SFO, DEN, REN, et al.
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Derek Doucet
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Aug 27, 2016
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Apr 2010
· Points: 66
Go to Red Rocks. There, we're done.
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Paul Davies
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Aug 28, 2016
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Dec 2013
· Points: 0
Thanks guys Sounds like red rocks is a popular destination. Gonna have to read into that. Maybe combine it with moab.
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Marc801 C
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Aug 28, 2016
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Sandy, Utah
· Joined Feb 2014
· Points: 65
Paul Davies wrote:Thanks guys Sounds like red rocks is a popular destination. Gonna have to read into that. Maybe combine it with moab. Don't know how long you'll be here, so just be aware that Vegas to Moab is about a 6.5 hr drive. Alternatively, Moab has very limited air service, served by fairly small planes. There is no public transportation between the two.
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JK- Branin
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Aug 28, 2016
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NYC-ish
· Joined Nov 2012
· Points: 56
psakievich wrote:For fall check out the desert SW! Red Rocks, Moab, Indian Creek, Zion, Sedona, JTree etc Second this. Base out of Vegas or St George (Small city in Southern Utah) for a few weeks. You can rent a car and sample a variety of world class areas, and chase the best weather with never more than a few hours driving.
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mark felber
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Aug 28, 2016
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Wheat Ridge, CO
· Joined Jul 2005
· Points: 41
How long do you plan on staying? Yosemite might scream big walls, but there are plenty of long free routes at your grade, as well as above and below your grade. DNB, Steck-Salathe, Chouinard-Herbert, Moratorium, Astroman and the Serenity to Sons of Yesterday linkup all come to mind. If you've never climbed higher than 7 pitches then it's time you did. Time and weather/temperatures permitting, my idea of a good itinerary would be to fly into LAX, rent a car and do a loop of Yosemite Valley, Tuolumne Meadows, the Sierra East side, Red Rocks, Joshua Tree then back to LAX and home. You should be able to link up with partners pretty easily at each of these places.
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awolf
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Aug 28, 2016
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New York, NY
· Joined Feb 2014
· Points: 15
Agree the west coast loop would be amazing. The Northeast is in prime season then as well so would also take a look at the Gunks and New Hampshire. Flying into NYC and doing a loop could also be an option.
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nooky brown
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Aug 28, 2016
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Oct 2004
· Points: 5
If it's trad you want. September City of Rocks Idaho Salt Lake City Utah Eldorado Colorado. I would give the Black a miss unless you find a SOLID partner. Though climbing at Gogarth is very similar. Yosemite CA October Moab Utah No fiddly wires here. Red Rocks Nevada November Joshua Tree CA Mount Lemon AZ Cochise Stronghold AZ Most of the areas per month are drivable in a day from one to another.
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