Most efficient way to stickclip rope solo?
|
Let's say I want to get to the anchors on a sport climb to fix a line and MicroTraxion TR solo it, but I can't access the top anchor, and the climb is not logistically suited for free rope solo leading. Let's assume that the bolts are spaced enough that the pitch can't be conventionally aid soloed. |
|
I have done this frequently, the advice above is dead on. Keep it simple, and weight the rope on the bolt you have just clipped before you unclip from the bolt you are at. His time seems fast to me, it usually takes me around 15 minutes to get up a route. |
|
Why unclip as you go? Sure, its probably fine but on the other hand... |
|
Mitchelle Kelly wrote:Why unclip as you go? Sure, its probably fine but on the other hand... rockandice.com/lates-news/c…Hard to top out while clipped into a bolt eh? |
|
I dunno nothin' bout soloing, but ya might be able to cadge a belay off a someone who is then content to sit and suck up her coffee, leaving you to do your thing in peace until you give her a ride back to town. |
|
In addition to what John said, you have to be very careful where you draw that extra slack from. Never add several arms length slack in the rope between the ground anchor and the solo belay device. If you do and the bolt you're standing on pulls before you stick clip the next bolt, you're going to whip big and possibly deck. Draw the slack after the solo belay device, not before. |
|
Yikes, this sounds kinda scary. I'd figure out how to stay into more than one bolt at any given time. |