Metolius ultralight master cams
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What are the pros and cons of the metolius ultralights and how many stars (out of 10) would you give them? |
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I'll list some pros both objective and subjective.
Subjetive:
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My partner got a rack of these and we used them for a couple days in RMNP recently. You definitely notice the weight savings - makes a big difference for east coasters like us at altitude! |
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I have a set up to red, the weight difference is pretty incredible and the extremely flexible stem is great in these smaller sizes. I haven't found the lack of a thumbloop to be a problem. I also really like that the color coding is on the sling, trigger bar and down by the cam lobes as well. |
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I recently used a set from #1-#8 alpine climbing in the tetons, and I loved them. They're super light, and pack down extremely well inside your pack. My single set w/ nuts and biners was tiny! The thumb loop is an issue if you have these, and you're trying to send the gnar. But for fast and light climbing I think these are as good as it gets. |
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I've had trigger wires snap on these. Other than that, I would agree that the larger sizes don't inspire confidence. |
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I've climbed on them a bunch by this point and I really like them for all the reason mentioned above: |
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I bought the equivalent to a camalot #2 and #3 to try them out. Don't like them much. I've probably climbed 2 dozen pitches with them and the #2 size has already torn the sheath on the tiny cords that pull the lobes exposing 1/4" of core. Yeah, they're cheep, but at least for the bigger sizes I can't see preferring them over c4s. |
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Not a review, but at Summer OR this year Metolius had the UL Master Cams in Offset flavors. |
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They have already discontinued production of regular masters, the offset masters will switch to ultralight set up soon as well. |
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This is the model that uses some kind of thread or cordage to connect trigger to cam, right? Can anybody weigh in on durability of this component? Also, not having one to look at, my guess is once this thread breaks, there are some replacement/maintenance options for the user to get it fixed? |
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its the same kevlar cord used in master cams. I've had master cams since they've come out, and have had zero issues. a one cam has a wore pull cord, but it's never failed and it's been that way for 4 years or so. |
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Climbed with a friend recently who has X4s I have mastercams. The Mastercam up to the green/Black range is pretty good. Not much difference, we climbed with both sets to compare. The lack of thumb loop is something that takes getting used to but I think mileage will override 1st impressions on that. Honestly though, not much difference in performance. I was suprised because I thought the dual axel sizes of X4 would be better but I did not notice much difference. |
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bernard wrote:This is the model that uses some kind of thread or cordage to connect trigger to cam, right? Can anybody weigh in on durability of this component? Also, not having one to look at, my guess is once this thread breaks, there are some replacement/maintenance options for the user to get it fixed?http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/pdf/Master-Cam-Trigger-Cord-Replacement.pdf or if you don't want to do it yourself metoliusclimbing.com/pdf/ca… In that form it says it costs $8 per cam to re-sling & replace broken trigger cord. |
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Metolius TCU's are still lighter than their ultrlight mastercams, just sayin. |
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DGraham wrote:Metolius TCU's are still lighter than their ultrlight mastercams, just sayin.My personal measurements Blue TCU 1 g lighter than the ULMC Yellow TCU 2g heavier than ULMC Orange TCU 6g lighter than ULMC Red TCU 6g lighter than ULMC Black Powercam 1g heavier than ULMC TCUs and power and are 10g lighter than the sizes of ULMC I have. |
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Jon Rhoderick wrote: TCUs and power and are 10g lighter than the sizes of ULMC I have.Not saying they're much lighter. I just think for those people who claim to want/like these for light and fast alpine, why not just get TCU's and save yourself some cash? |
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DGraham wrote: Not saying they're much lighter. I just think for those people who claim to want/like these for light and fast alpine, why not just get TCU's and save yourself some cash?MSRP is the same (~$60). You may find older stock of the TCU's for less ($5 by my search - not including sale prices - not every size available). I'd expect similar when the UL's models are a bit older. Mastercam's also come in larger sizes Mastercam's are a 4 lobe unit, vs 3 lobe unit Single stem vs U-Stem All reasons someone might want these over TCU's specifically. |
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I've been using the ULMC's for about 8 months and really like them. I've been using DMM Dragons for a few years so the lack of thumb loop wasn't an issue. I always thought it would be, but only rarely do I wish it was there and even then it's not too big of a deal. Where I climb I almost always need a double rack of cams so I go with a set of C4 or Dragons and a set of Mastercams. The ranges are pretty close, but every once in a while the slightly different sizes will work better for a placement. |
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DGraham wrote: Not saying they're much lighter. I just think for those people who claim to want/like these for light and fast alpine, why not just get TCU's and save yourself some cash?I used a partners TCUs and found it easier for them to walk on wandering pitches. I blame it more on the rigid stem than three lobes, but whichever the cause I don't want my small cams walking. |
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Look at that, only $60 for ULMC. Nevermind, I see how the advantages of the ULMC outweights 19 grams less from TCU. |