Whipps Ledges/ logtown beta

I am aware of the permit process at Whipps ledges and am in the process of securing those. I will be going out with some family and am wondering if there is anything like a guide or any info out there on what all is in the area. This isn't my hometown so it is my first attempt at the area. We would mostly be climbing on 5.10 and below, but I would love to jump on something harder (5.12-) if possible. Any info would be helpful.

Thanks

We would likely be going over the holiday weekend. Does it get busy? What can we expect?

Also considering logtown. Any info would be appreciated

Anybody have any helpful info? Thanks

I climb at both regularly and hopefully both this weekend around family events, Having just been at the NRG this past weekend, I've never been able to describe either as busy.

Whipps will be busy with hikers and non-climbers scrambling all over and I'd expected at least a handful of climbers there, and definitely some boulderers around (as they don't need permits). Most routes are TR only with a couple of trad lines, you'll need a lengthy TR setup for some routes (I have a 10m, 30m and 46m static lines that I use on various routes). I use MP for routes there, its fairly easy to find the Main Wall and Island right behind it (which has bolts on top, both sides for TR extended setups and a rap station on top to get down)

Logtown will be quieter than Whipps, but there's been a fair amount of regulars lately. Sport too, I know there's some 11s and 12s there, grab the Quarry Diagram guide docs.google.com/fileview?id… - The middle cliff isn't used very much, but it look like somebody fixed up the trail so I'd recommend the main wall & front wall, easier to find as well. Easy short TR setup for the trad only lines. Also a nice fire pit if wanted. Steel Trolley Diner in town for Lisbon experience.

Both locations are short, I use gym size ropes (30/35m is plenty) and save the 60m.

Thanks! I really appreciate the info.