Alpine Climbing and avalanche beacons
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I am going to climb Mt Rainier (Disappointment Cleaver Route) next month and some people in my group do not think avalanche gear is essential. I have been through an avalanche class, and they definitely taught that you should never go into avalanche terrain without beacon/probe/shovel, but that class was mostly focused on backcountry skiing. |
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snow falls on rainier every month of the year. |
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i thought this quote from that link i sent you might be a good answer to your question: |
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I've been on the mountain in June twice, and did not take any gear. I'd say about half do and half don't. The mountain had not had any significant snow in weeks, and coupled with warm temps, I took a risk and thought it was stable enough. My main concern was/is just above Ing. flats and right before the Cleaver. But if those seracs slide, beacons probably won't be of much help except for locating your remains. |
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Though unlikely, if something did rip and tore you apart, they can find your body faster for your loved ones. That's not a small deal. At least wear a Ricco reflector. |
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If conditions are such that avalanches are a concern, one shouldn't be climbing the route anyways. Or be prepared to bail. |
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I would agree with Andy's assessment of IG flats. Personally I have never brought my avy beacon on Rainier, but it's in my backyard and I will not climb it if there has been any recent new snow up high or if any weather is forecast to come in. I prefer my snow firm and fast to boot up, I'm not a fan of slogging in new snow. |
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An extra 3 lbs per person (beacon + shovel + probe)? No thanks. I'll also not head up if there's a lot of fresh or otherwise some unique situation that has raised the avy hazard. |
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jaredj wrote:An extra 3 lbs per person (beacon + shovel + probe)? No thanks.I thought a shovel and probe was standard for glacier travel, probe for crevasses and bridge depths? I don't think my shovel ( not the most expensive one or anything ) and my probe weigh 3lbs. Will weigh when I get home. |
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The shovel, probe, and beacon I have together weight about 2.5lbs - about the same as a liter of water. |
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Thanks. I think I got the info I was looking for. |
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If the glacier requires flotation, conditions would be such that I might bring probe and shovel per person. |
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Thumer wrote:I have been through an avalanche class, and they definitely taught that you should never go into avalanche terrain without beacon/probe/shovelAvalanche terrain assessment includes snow conditions, recent weather history, and current/future weather. In other words, there is a lot of terrain that is definitely avalanche terrain in some scenarios (fresh snow on a crust, for example) and low risk in others (firm cold snow after freeze-thaw). If you have typical June conditions, I would probably not carry avy gear, personally. You need to assess the conditions at the time of your climb, but if there is not a bunch of fresh snow or warm/soft conditions, you probably don't need to carry. |
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Thanks Ryan, Kyle, and everyone else. You guys bring up a good point. It really depends on the conditions, and that is pretty hard to determine a month out when your trying to decide who brings what gear. I am in the position where I already own the gear, and other guys in my group don't. So they are trying to decide what to buy/rent. Sounds like we should just watch the weather, and if there has been some recent snow or snow is in the forecast maybe rent a some avy gear. If the avy conditions are good, don't bother. |