Ultralight Master Cam

Anyone with experience with the Metolius ultralight master cam out there who could give me a quick thumbs up or down on them? I've been using C4s and X4s exclusively for a couple of years, so the smaller range of the MUMCs is a turnoff, but otherwise they seem pretty sweet for the price and weight. And beyond the general "should I bother" is there a particular number range where they excel in a rack mixed with BD? It seems like some people like the 00-4 MC matched with 0.5-4 C4. Thanks.

I have the orange... I picked it up as a double, it kind of fits between my 0.5 and 0.4 BD cams.

I like it, I seem to find a placement for it on most climbs.

I like them. They are very well made and I like the changes. I think they do shine in the smaller sizes you mentioned. If you're expecting lots of horizontal placements there are more suitable options.

Love them. No problems with them so far. I have a set of BD cams to include x4 and would rather rack the Metolius. Although, I have to say, it's tough, if not impossible, for me to not rack my totems with my metolius.

I have sizes 5-7 and they are awesome. The old 7's were a little floppy, but they are great now with a thicker/stiffer cable and nice and light weight. I just noticed that Backcountry.com has them on sale for $51. I might go buy the #8.

I'll be the outlier and and say that I don't prefer them over x4s. It's a little finicky to get the thumb oriented right with the floppy webbing. I feel like I can tell a difference in the lack of range as well. Other than that they are well made just not my favorite.

Not trying to hijack the thread but...

I have a full set of the original master cams, 00-6. I am now wanting to double up on my rack in the size range of about 00-4. If this was your rack would you add the new UMCs, TCUs, or X4s?

I like the idea of sticking with metolius so I don't get confused with different colors for the same sizes, but having a mixed up rack may have its benefits.

Big thumbs up from me

Eric K wrote:Not trying to hijack the thread but... I have a full set of the original master cams, 00-6. I am now wanting to double up on my rack in the size range of about 00-4. If this was your rack would you add the new UMCs, TCUs, or X4s? I like the idea of sticking with metolius so I don't get confused with different colors for the same sizes, but having a mixed up rack may have its benefits.

I am pretty new to this, and trying to piece together a rack as well. I was told that the Metolius Ultralight Master Cams complement a set of C4's perfectly because of the different lobe sizing. For example, if you go to place a #0.4 C4 and it is tipped out and you reach for a #0.5 C4 and it is overcammed. You can then use a #3 UL mastercam because it is between the #0.4 and #0.5 C4.

Have a full set they are bitchin! Carry those and a set of BD ultralights all racked with camp nanos, then mix and match C3's and some nuts depending on route. Makes a pretty damn light rack!

Are they good in soft rock? Is there anybody to compare Ultralight Master Cams versus Ultralight Fat Cams in soft rock?

After pages of discussion. Mt Project decides that totems are the best small cams.

mountainproject.com/v/the-e…

mountainproject.com/v/totem…

Yep. That they are.

As others have said, metolius cams seem to fit nicely in between BD sizes. I usually carry one set of each between .3-1/yellow-green (double MC for smaller and C4 for bigger) and that seems to let me get more bomber placements that just carrying doubles of either MC or C4. I want a set of the new UL MCs real bad, but can't decided whether I'd rather a set of those or the new UL C4s.

I bought a few a while back when they were on sale. Not had a chance to try them out yet. That being said, they look to be very well-made and they are light, for sure!

Most of the routes around here make sense to carry a double set of cams in hand/finger range. I find it very useful to have a set of Camalots and a set of Mastercams. I don't find that they fit in between each other, but are pretty close to each other in size, but they have enough difference that having one of each to choose from is helpful when something isn't fitting quite right. I follow the example of a friend of mine and rack the Master Cams on biners that are color coded to the corresponding Camalot, which makes it easier to quickly find what I need.

As for totem cams, they are awesome, but expensive and not needed for most placements. I have found them imperative on some tricky aid routes on desert towers, but that's the only place that I found them to be overall better than C4s or Master Cams.

They are great, takes some getting used to using a small cam with no solid thumb loop tho, I think I bite the webbing to get my thumb in

JIC, is there anybody having an experience of placing those cams in soft rock? And testing those placements (e.g., falling on them)? Do they really hold in soft rock?

Pavel Burov wrote:JIC, is there anybody having an experience of placing those cams in soft rock? And testing those placements (e.g., falling on them)? Do they really hold in soft rock?

I personally like them less than the older Master Cams (I use them for small cams) because there is less to grab on to, but I still think they are great. Maybe I just need to get used to them, though.