First top rope solo...

Ben Beckerich wrote:If you use an ascender, you don't have to take up slack the whole way up. I've been using CAMP's Lift Ascender, which is basically an Ushba knockoff, but a Petzl Shunt is probably the single best TR solo device out there- it can take a lot more force before damaging the rope. Some guys even use toothed ascenders, though I personally wouldn't want to risk damaging my sheath if I managed to fall with some slack in the rope.

Hey Ben, I'm running a Lift for TR Solo and I had ran into some issues with cross loading on my first climb when the camp would flop over during the capture phase of the climb. I've considered using a short eye2eye sling to keep it in check and attach it to the lanyard around my neck. But it seems like that would add too many steps to removing it in an emergency if I need to descend. I was wondering how you've got yours rigged. It would be nice if it had that opening for a second biner like the ISC Rocker.

Daniel Provasnik wrote: Hey Ben, I'm running a Lift for TR Solo and I had ran into some issues with cross loading on my first climb when the camp would flop over during the capture phase of the climb. I've considered using a short eye2eye sling to keep it in check and attach it to the lanyard around my neck. But it seems like that would add too many steps to removing it in an emergency if I need to descend. I was wondering how you've got yours rigged. It would be nice if it had that opening for a second biner like the ISC Rocker.

I use a microscender as my primary which also only has a single hole for a biner and in addition to the locker which connects to my belay loop, I thread through about 12" of 4 mil cord which I use to attach it to my "chest harness" (a double length runner over both shoulders). A simple flat overhand on that cord keeps it oriented and since both the biner and cord are through a single hole, there is enough friction to keep the biner from moving around and it stays oriented correctly even for aggressive moves.

Ben Beckerich wrote:....but a Petzl Shunt is probably the single best TR solo device out there-

Have to disagree with the Petzl Shunt. If you really want one, I'll sell you mine for cheap, but it doesn't work good for solo top roping. The main problem is that it doesn't slide up the rope easily without hanging a full sized anvil on the end of the rope. Otherwise this means you frequently have to deal with slack build up.

I use 1 rope, knot at the middle and anchor that to give 2 independent strands.

Yates rocker on one strand, mini trax on the other strand trailing by a sling. They both feed without fussing.

If the fall consequences are OK (I have an area with flat non rocky landing surface and only 30' cliffs) I will disengage the minitrax because the yates rocker allows for no-hassle downclimbing as well, so I can lap my 30' cliffs without stopping. The yates is awesome since it's non toothed, but I think it pinches at a significantly more acute angle than something like a grigri (but it feeds so nice!).

I havent come up with a smooth system for downclimbing with a backup device other than just having 2 rockers. any suggestions?

a prussik would be easy enough to slide down i guess, something about those seems unreliable in a dynamic/fall situation.

My TR Solo set up.
This is the set up I use. 10.5 mm rope with a BFK to fix to the top. Mini Trax for a main device backed up with a Micro Trax. I hang a water bottle or some draws on the bottom of the rope to help it keep from getting any slack. Don't put something too heavy or it makes lowering with a Gri Gri a bitch. If you do that then you can "fall" (sit back on the rope) without the fear of shredding your line. I also use the sling around my neck to keep the devices from touching and to keep it from any slack potential. You don't need an actual chest harness since this is only helping move the device up the line not actually taking any load. Also hang a long sling from your anchor to attach yourself to so you don't accidentally drive the Trax into the knot at the top. I also alway carry a sling and ascender to get my self up if I can't do the route because I tried to bite more than I could chew. BD Grid Locks work well to prevent any potential cross loading. There are many techniques with TR Soloing and really it just depends on the situation. stephdavis.co/blog/rope-sol…

Here's a simple system I've used to (1) get past a crux section; (2) escape the system should I have to before getting to the chains/anchor. I use a single mini trax on a single strand. As simple a system as it gets, though definitely not redundant. I always keep a petzl basic ascender on my harness. One of these days I'll get a micro trax backup. I've been solo top roping for about 8 years using this system.

Getting past a crux section on solo top rope:

Attach basic to rope above the mini trax.

Grab a bight of rope below the mini.

Bring that strand up and clip it to the biner attached to the petzl basic.

You now have a mechanical advantage for moving past any crux section.

Escaping the system:

Attach the petzl basic above the mini. Add a QD and long sling to the biner on the basic.

Use long sling to stand up to clip directly into the QD to take your weight off the mini.

Tied in short to the basic. Don't let the rope drape over the nose of the biner as I did here.

Attach you chosen rappel device below the mini. Now that you're tired in short, remove the mini from the system.

Step up in the long sling again to take in tight on the rap device to remove the QD and ascender.

Remove the basic and you're ready to rappel.

The Safety Police out there I'm sure will pick this apart. I do realize there are additional safety measures that I can implement in my system but choose not to. It's worked for me this far. It's simple, fast, easy and safe, and easy to inspect. How solo top roping was meant to be.