Best 10+/11- Trad Routes on the Front Range
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Hey MP! |
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So many... But one I did recently that has stuck with me is Kloof in Eldo. Memorable climb with good pump factor and clean falls. |
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People obsess over grades too much. Why does it specifically need to be that grade? 10+/11-? Super open to interpretation. Most people chase grades just to tell people theyve climbed 11 trad or whatever. Get over it you know? |
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Eldo: |
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In Eldorado: |
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Rad, thanks for the advice, ya'll! Tombo, I'm especially psyched about C'est La Vie - I was eyeing it last year & it looks like a lovely route. I'll check out those routes at Lumpy, and BoCan too. Cotopaxi - Kloof looks like great fun. VRP - those all look like fun routes, I remember a friend recommending Vertigo - as a first Eldo 11. |
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grog m wrote:People obsess over grades too much. Why does it specifically need to be that grade? 10+/11-? Super open to interpretation. Most people chase grades just to tell people theyve climbed 11 trad or whatever. Get over it you know? Pick an aesthetic feature and get psyched on that. Pick an amazing partner and get stoked with them. Those are better and more lasting accomplishments. Okay off my soap box. Go to mountain projects front page. Scroll down to the map of the US area. Select Colorado. Scroll down to the "Classic Climbing Routes in Colorado" Select "Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Colorado" Change the sort menu to trad. Theres the consensus with no forum arguments. Short cut, here mountainproject.com/scripts… You can filter this to more specific areas other than just Colorado.Ah yes, the internet. Stella, who is presumably looking to progress in her climbing, asks locals about climbs for a grade range new to her (at least on gear). She must be "chasing grades", because La Sportiva definitely starts handing out free shoes for 11- trad. She should get psyched on "a feature", and climb the same 5.8 circuit that 80% of Eldo climbers do. That will stoke the flames for years! I'm with you Stella, use grades as a way to assess your progress and continue to challenge yourself. |
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Turkey rocks: |
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When I was in shape last fall I was in sortof the same place with my climbing -- hoping to break into 11- on gear and looking for routes around Boulder. I found "Point Break" to be an excellent and super well protected route in this grade range, the first crux pitch being 10+ and the second being 11- but protected by bolts. Great climbing and a challenging quintessential Eldo pitch at 10+ with small pro and weird sequences. |
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Jeff - Agreed on Athlete's Feat in fact pretty much everything on Castle Rock is full value plus in my mind. |
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Turkey Rocks is one of the best places to push your limits...the gear placements are abundant and excellent. You should also put Scorpio Crack on your list. |
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Hi StellaBea, |
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Eldo is stacked with 10+/11- climbs! Here are some of my favorites. All have pretty good/good gear. |
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andrew.reed wrote:Turkey rocks: Vanishing Point 10+ Great White Crime 11- Whimsical Dreams 11- Drumstick Direct 10++1 to this list and to Turkey in general. Turkey is a very friendly place for pushing your physical limits (strenuous climbing, good pro, solid rock, clean falls). There is also a good selection in the 10+/11- range. Definitely worth the extra bit of driving. The one downside is that the main walls at Turkey face south and can be quite hot in the summer. |
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This is great, ya'll are so helpful. +1 for crowdsourcing knowledge. Evan - you're spot-on, thanks for that. I give 0 f**** about how hard others think I climb/how hard I climb compared to others - I just wanna have fun, & know I'm making progress/getting closer to realizing my bigger goals (and know when I'm ready for them, too). |
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Pervertical Sanctuary on Long's East Face is pretty great and some would argue it is both 5.10+ and 5.11-. However, getting to that route is a bit more complicated than, say, Center Route. |
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Momentum Operator is a great 5.11- at Broken Rock in BoCan |
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Andy Hansen wrote:Pervertical Sanctuary on Long's East Face is pretty great and some would argue it is both 5.10+ and 5.11-. However, getting to that route is a bit more complicated than, say, Center Route.Weather depending, I plan to climb that route this summer. All climbing is training for alpine climbing. |
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It may be pushing the grade a bit at 11c, but Country Club Crack at Castle Rock was my favorite trad project so far. The 11c crux start is protected by two bolts, then the rest is easy to sew up and it's all super safe. |
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New to the grade and wants good gear... |