Tope Rope Anchor check
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So Im a new climber looking to move from gym to the crag. My local crag has bolts in place. I put this together to see if I got the concept down and this wpuld be safe to climb on. I was playing around with what I had in my hands at the time. I know I would like some bulkier locking biners for the bolts, a sling vs runner l, and another biner at the master point. |
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Eric, |
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Unfortunately not, right now I'm reading everything I can and even resortimg to tutorials on youtube. |
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Yup but I'd move the limiting knots down to be a bit closer to the master point. A locker at the master point may also add some security. |
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Looks good to me. However, for top-roping I suggest using thicker 1" nylon slings over the skinny one pictured. The thicker slings are much more durable, easier to untie, and for TR-cragging you don't need to worry about their extra weight. |
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I'd prefer lockers instead of wiregates, a thicker sling, and would move the limiting knots closer to the "master point". In any case, flip those carabiners around so that the gates are facing away from the rock. |
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Thanks everyone for responses. The limiting knots were giving the most trouble. I couldn't figure out the right placement for them. I'm def going to bump up to 4 locking biners and the 1 inch sling. Thanks again fellas. |
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Is that a sliding-X or two separate slings? I can't tell from even the full size photo and can make a case for either. |
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Looks good enough for jesus. Throw a locker or two opposing regular carabiners at the rope end. |
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Sliding X. |
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Eric Smith 1 wrote: I know I would like some bulkier locking biners for the bolts, a sling vs runner l, and another biner at the master point."Sling" and "runnner" are synonyms. Interchangeable. Mean the same thing. |
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Eric Smith 1 wrote:I know I would like some bulkier locking biners for the bolts, a sling vs runner l, and another biner at the master point.What's the difference between a "sling" and a "runner"? The setup in your photo isn't redundant. Since you're reading, read John Long's anchor books. |
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Thanks for the clarification Frank |
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LIVE, LIVE PLEASE |
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Eric Smith 1 wrote:Would it be redundant to perphaps throw the smaller on with the 1 inch for a back in the worse case scenarioYes. Treat them as one item. Put the two slings (1" nylon and 10mm dyneema) together, tie limiter knots in them, and clip you biners through both. Or use 2 x 1" nylon slings instead. Or 2 thinner nylon slings. |
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My thought without getting into preferences and all that jazz: |
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Eric, TBH, I wouldn't bother with the sliding X or limiter knots at all. There's been a lot of recent discussion about that on MP and I'm sure you can find it. |
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Thanks everybody. I work the next few days. Ill pick up all the gear youve recommended. Ill get to the krag either sunday or monday and try it there. Ill send you some pictures then. Let me know what you think then |
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So I have been doing a lot of thinking lately regards to my TR anchor set up (and bolted anchors in general). I've come to a few conclusions I'll share with you: |
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Brian L. wrote:I like this because it's simple, uses materials I already have, and that can be re-purposed, is redundant, limits extension, and can be pre-tied and adjust to most bolt placements that are mostly horizontal. The only caveat is you shouldn't ever clip 3 strands.Oh Jesus, if that is simple I wanna see your complicated. haha Where are you going to run the second rope? Seems like it works and is bomber. Why do you find equalization so important on bolts? Edit to add: With your set up, you should be careful that your limiter knots are in the same place on both slings. Otherwise, the placement of the knot could cause the bolt biners to tri-load. |
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matt c. wrote: Oh Jesus, if that is simple I wanna see your complicated.I really don't see whats so complicated about it. It's 4 overhand knots. Tie it once and your done. I explained above why I don't prefer the "simpler" solutions. Fwiw besides locking the lockers, this is just as quick as using two draws. matt c. wrote:Seems like it works and is bomber. Why do you find equalization so important on bolts?Generally speaking I think everyone wants equalization. I don't see many people setting anchors that only pull one bolt, with slack to the other. I like self equalizing because it equalizes between different bolt locations without having to re-tie. matt c. wrote:Edit to add: With your set up, you should be careful that your limiter knots are in the same place on both slings. Otherwise, the placement of the knot could cause the bolt biners to tri-load.Yes, care should be taken to be even as possible, but I don't think you'll triload the biner. What you will do is unevenly load the slings. The reason is both biners are cliped to both slings. Here are some pictures of the two cases I think you might be worried about if the knots are not even. |