self belay
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looking for suggestions on self belaying during sport climbing. I have a GriGri and a Reverso 4. tips on either would be nice. thank you |
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Are you trying to rope solo while on lead or toprope? |
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Rope solo on lead |
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Any reason you do not want to top rope solo? |
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Richard O'Neal wrote:Rope solo on leadThere's a method of rigging a gri gri with a chest harness (may require modification of gri gri) that allows it to feed out while you climb and catch if you fall (unless you fall headfirst). Do a search, there are some posts with detailed instructions and pictures of how to set it up. I guess you could climb with the reverso in autoblock mode, but it would probably be a pain to feed out slack. Disclaimer: Roped soloing on lead is a lot of work. I'll do it while aid climbing or to solo a big wall (with minimal or easy free climbing), but the idea of doing it while sport climbing doesn't sound fun. Kind of defeats the purpose of sport climbing. |
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BigFeet wrote:Any reason you do not want to top rope solo? There are ways to lead solo rockclimbing.com/Articles/T…, but there is more risk potential. Credit to healyje with this article. I found myself sticking to top rope solo, after working on lead solo as described above. If anything... get a Silent Partner for piece of mind.The area i climb is not accessible to set up a top rope before climbing. Must lead climb first. i have a climbing partner, who is not always available as much as i'd like. |
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if you like going off half cocked; tie a locking biner on to the sharp end, attach grigri to self, clip locking biner to first bolt. |
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I normally tie the rope to an anchor at the start. I climb with a grigri (it is a pain to feed it through, probably the worst method to do this but I don't do it enough to buy anything else). I normally have background knots tied into my harness so even if the grigri doesn't catch the backup knots will catch and stop the fall. As I climb I untie the knots, this can be hard depending on the route but I normally only do it for stuff maybe 5.6 at the hardest so I normally can find no hand spots to untie the backup knots as I go. You could also go direct into the bolts as you go up and untie the knots from there if there is no stance good enough to untie the backups. |
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Thank you all for the input and advice. In the days pondering this, I decided to abandon the "reliability" of Google and just try thinking of a way to set up a self belay system that is safe and redundant. |
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Do yourself a favor if you really intend on lead rope-soloing. This is a steal BTW:: |
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if your prusik ends up touching anything, including the ATC, it will slip and you will go splat. If you're dead set on lead soloing, get a silent partner. That one for $100 is an amazing deal and will be gone soon. |
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Sounds a bit crazy, I want do it... |