Bad anchors

Just another canyoneering anchor. (Big slung rock with other rocks in front of it on a 25-30 degree incline). Meat backup.

Some excellent old crap descending from Vision Quest at Indian Creek. Yes these anchors sit right next to much better anchors.

matt c. wrote:The knot was dressed and snugged down at the beginning of the day but there were no hanging belays so I never weighted the rope. I think squeeze/OW groveling throughout the day contributed to the state of the knot.

climbing friend,

the figure of 8 it self tightens and needs no backup knot like bowline. a backup knot on figure of 8 does nothing except terrify toproping noobs when they are halfway up your climibng rocks and see it coming undone. perhaps you manage to loosen with your groveling and your humping but this seems most difficult to be believing in.

Aleks Zebastian wrote: climbing friend, the figure of 8 it self tightens and needs no backup knot like bowline. a backup knot on figure of 8 does nothing except terrify toproping noobs when they are halfway up your climibng rocks and see it coming undone. perhaps you manage to loosen with your groveling and your humping but this seems most difficult to be believing in.

Dear climbing F,
Please do not believe me based on this story alone. It is common knowledge that figure 8's ( i don't know about them there boo-lines) self tightens when weighted and that is not in contest. The issue in question is what happens before it is weighted ( or just once when it really needs to be weighted).

I did an experiment after that incident. I took my dog for a few trail hikes with her leash tied with a figure 8 knot. After a few walks the 8 became loose at the point of coming nearly undone. I'd suggest replicating the experiment; don't believe me.

Just to dredge up this old topic .  We came across this anchor on one of the more popular canyoneering routes in Arches.  It was done by three parties the day we did it.  How is this "leave no trace" anchor better than two camouflaged bolts up and out of the water course where the pull would be easier and grooves lessened?  This current set up might ensure that, once the anchor fails, the falling climber is clobbered by boulders.

Brian Hansen wrote:

Just to dredge up this old topic .  We came across this anchor on one of the more popular canyoneering routes in Arches.  It was done by three parties the day we did it.  How is this "leave no trace" anchor better than two camouflaged bolts up and out of the water course where the pull would be easier and grooves lessened?  This current set up might ensure that, once the anchor fails, the falling climber is clobbered by boulders.

Not “climbers”, “canyoneers”.

If you remove sketchy anchors from canyoneering, where would the excitement be?

Brian Hansen wrote:

Just to dredge up this old topic .  We came across this anchor on one of the more popular canyoneering routes in Arches.  It was done by three parties the day we did it.  How is this "leave no trace" anchor better than two camouflaged bolts up and out of the water course where the pull would be easier and grooves lessened?  This current set up might ensure that, once the anchor fails, the falling climber is clobbered by boulders.

Ohhhh don't even get me started on canyoner LNT bolting hypocrisy.

In my area, after a few brief bolting skirmishes, apparently people have started to drill V-threads in the sandstone as a "compromise" solution.

Sam M wrote:

Ohhhh don't even get me started on canyoner LNT bolting hypocrisy.

In my area, after a few brief bolting skirmishes, apparently people have started to drill V-threads in the sandstone as a "compromise" solution.

That’s not a bad idea, use an Escaper and you would barely notice the holes.

Tradiban wrote:

That’s not a bad idea, use an Escaper and you would barely notice the holes.

I was thinking I'd use half a dozen loops of disintegrating tat and a couple of rusted shut hardware store quicklinks, but that's a much better idea.

Pretty bomber compared to most of the anchors on here but there are a lot of these around Western Washington.

Apparently climbing Mag recommended stacked washers and chain for anchors at some point in the late 80s - early 90s

Most I know that have been replaced weren't too bad but some are pretty spooky!

The set pictured below was under a solid 4 in of moss for ~25+ years at Canopy Crag

Shawn S wrote:

Pretty bomber compared to most of the anchors on here but there are a lot of these around Western Washington.

Apparently climbing Mag recommended stacked washers and chain for anchors at some point in the late 80s - early 90s

Most I know that have been replaced weren't too bad but some are pretty spooky!

The set pictured below was under a solid 4 in of moss for ~25+ years at Canopy Crag

Those are fine.

Not when they put too many washers on and the bolt barely goes into the rock! 

Anchor wedge bolt from the 1990's. The wedge is so corroded that it wouldn't expand anymore.
Pulled from the first pitch belay of Silent Running.

1/4" Button Head & Leeper hanger pulled from JTNP. This split shaft is one of the more corroded examples I've personally found, and has a massive crack / failure in one side of it's expansion plane. This is one of those examples that I would call a "death bolt".

Doug Plourde wrote:

I think the worst thing about this one is the way you rigged it. It’s like you were purposely trying to make a marginal anchor into a bad one.