The only book on crack technique worth reading:
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taipan jam wrote: My apologies, I should have clarified, I was speaking to the "royal" you regarding flashing Phoenix, not you personally Mark. But actually...Phoenix has been onsighted... By guess who? Peter Croft. There's a big difference between the three, flash, onsight and redpoint...certainly everyone can agree here(?) & I'm just not buying into Phoenix being "flashed fairly often" still...but I guess my attempt is still in the barrel! I just have to remember what Croft says...and climb as well as he did like 25 years ago...Well since I just made up the "flashed fairly often fact" there's a good chance I'm completely mistaken. Have you heard the Enormocast with Peter Croft? He is still brimming with enthusiasm. Really inspiring. Don't recall that he mentioned Phoenix but did talk about Astroman. Definitely worth a listen. |
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If you run into a great book like this, ask your local library to purchase it, if they don't have it already. This will increase its visibility, and up the purchases for deserving authors! |
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I may get some flack for this, but the sample photos show some techniques I have personally dissuaded people from using, specifically the "cup and twist" and the first thumb stack. The second thumb stack is the one I always recommend as it actually makes a jam. |
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Ball: Thanx for your comments - you wont get any flack from me. I appreciate honest feedback and technical discussions. Sorry I didnt see your post sooner. |
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Classic Leavittation by the inventor of the technique: here palm away, hands parallel... |
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Kent Pease wrote: Thumb Stacks (aka - Finger/Thumb Stacks, Ring Locks): I agree that for most climbers and in most situations, camming is the primary action creating the holding force. Although not as natural to use, opposition wedging actin is sometimes helpful. This is not an intuitive action and may take a conscious effort to develop a feel for the jam.I always tell people to use the thumb as a wedge and put all the weight on one's finger. The term "stack" doesn't really help. We should call them thumb wedges :) With regards to fist stacks, I won't claim to be an expert (have led 11+ OW), unless the crack is flared or offset in a way preventing this, you can usually stack with a palms-up fist being the one further inside the crack. Typically my right hand is straight out while the left comes across (on top), palms down, or side-by-side which can be easier for bumping. I don't have the book, but there are a lot of stacks which I use which I don't see typically (perhaps due to my small hands) like a one-hand fist-thumb stack. I also don't use butterflies very often as thin-hands-fist stack can be more easily bumped with a quick layback. YHMV & YRMV |
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rgold wrote:Classic Leavittation by the inventor of the technique: here palm away, hands parallel... vimeo.com/46589051That's cool, but once you can get your knee in it's pretty much over. I have problems when having to stack both hands and feet :) Also, I usually put my foot out the other way. I'll try his way next time |
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Ball wrote: That's cool, but once you can get your knee in it's pretty much over. I have problems when having to stack both hands and feet :)Ball, I'm a little confused by that last part. Do you mean when the crack is so wide that you have to stack your feet? I'm skinny, if a crack is wider than my feet are long, I just get inside and slowly writhe upward. The rest of your post makes it sound like you're talking about hand/hand stacks that are too narrow to get your knee in. I thought the book was particularly excellent concerning that size. Big 4 Camalots are a problem size for the average sized male climber. If you have any questions about that size maybe I can help. Of course the author is right here too. |
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highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion wrote: Ball, I'm a little confused by that last part. Do you mean when the crack is so wide that you have to stack your feet?No, I'm talking about too narrow to get my knee in. |
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Ball wrote: No, I'm talking about too narrow to get my knee in.In that case, all I can offer is to reread those sections. That size in particular has better details than most of the other styles. |
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Just snagged the last copy from Neptune's, hopefully they will get more in. Came with this weird book press which I guess is to keep the pages flat between readings. |
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I've been doing something similar with a wood clamp...great alternative to dragging the book up with you on a climb, lol. Love the book btw, Kent. |
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Great idea - not only is the crack adjustable but it's also portable! |