UTAH - 2015/16 Ice Season

Thank you, Sunny-D

John Mansperger wrote:the temp forecast around the last weekend in Feb.

Well...I'm not gonna paint as rosy a picture. Ice could still be in and good. But...

Today, upper 40's at Joes.

Here near the mouth of LCC, its raining and 40's.

Sustained heat through mid week will put temp's at Provo in the upper 40's, Joes and Maple in the mid 50's.

For the first time this winter, up high in the Wasatch, we had two nights in a row at over 10k that the temp's didn't freeze at night. And, the snowpack shows it.

Its warming up. Days gettin' longer. Sun angle changing for the worst.

I'd say the last weekend in February that you'll find ice to climb especially in the grades you're looking at (big ice now, moderate angle, melts out versus falls down). But, should be soupy.

I don't think we're forecast for a significant cold front for the next couple of weeks. We'll see.

Historically, the last weekend of Feb tends to be the last of the good ice conditions unless we've had sustained heat or cold which then either truncates the season (ie, last year), or, extends it.

Climbed in maple last Thursday. Climbs in the main canyon shady side were in great shape. Climbs in the box had scary top outs. Doubt they're doing to last much longer.Out of curiosity, where do people park these days without being hassled?

Also, the climbs in Joes Valley , Donorcicle, CCC, Deadbolt, are in great shape

John Mansperger wrote:Thinking of heading to UT to meet up w/ buddy who has been out of ice climbing for a few years. The season in NE USA has been not good when I've been free (banner year Dacks and NH last several years though). I am not familiar with UT ice at all; the temp forecast around the last weekend in Feb. seems warm. With pricey flights; I don't want to travel for no ice. Looking for routes to WI4+, basing out of SLC. Any thoughts on maybe conditions would be much appreciated.

I wouldn't waste my time. it's going to be pretty warm here in UT and the ice it's not fat!
I used to climb in NH, NY and VT trust me not the same. I would head out to the ghost area or the icefields area in Canada if you want ice. I would check out CO. Silverton would be much better, but lots of climbers. If you want to climb WI4+ unless we get some super cold storm I wouldn't do it. I am about to cancel my trip to Cody because of conditions. Just some realistic advice.
Cheers,
L.

Climbed Maple yesterday the 13th. Ice was falling from everywhere in the afternoon. Ice came down from above bowling ball head, the Top of Wet Itches fell off, the top of Tied off Stubbies collapsed late in the day.
With the valley inversions gone and the current forecast we may have rounded the clubhouse turn on this season.

Anyone want to run up the GWI tomorrow?

I'm thinking about making a trip out to Ouray next weekend. Leave Friday evening and come back Monday afternoon. Anybody interested in carpooling? I could potentially flex that timeframe a little if I have a passenger. Text me! 941-586-5355

David Morison wrote:Anyone want to run up the GWI tomorrow?

Heads up:

mountainproject.com/v/lost-…

Ha! Yah I found the nomic! was about to post in this thread/procrastinate before getting back to work

cdec wrote:Climbed Maple yesterday the 13th. Ice was falling from everywhere in the afternoon. Ice came down from above bowling ball head, the Top of Wet Itches fell off, the top of Tied off Stubbies collapsed late in the day. With the valley inversions gone and the current forecast we may have rounded the clubhouse turn on this season.

Scary... I climbed tied off stubbies around 2pm on the 13th... Felt very hollow and delaminated toward the top...probably should have backed off. Guess I dodged a bullet. Top of cobble cruncher was the same.

Not that it should be a surprise to anyone, but Willard is definitely not in. It's currently a combination of very plastic ice, snice, candy shell, and mixed climbing through waterfalls.

GWI last pitch has an open creek running through it. Looks like at least half of one side is melted out. With temp's soaring to near record temp's tomorrow...might be it for that route this season.

snagged this rig last week
totally dry climbing between 2 spewing waterfalls

Looking for ice partner. Anyone want to get out on Friday or Saturday?

Get on it!

Where is that at?

Blackmore wrote:Where is that at?

The professors in Canada

I've always wanted to move to Banff. That clinched it.
mountainproject.com/v/the-p…

I left a rope on bridal veil right the past couple days after watching white nightmare slide and deciding it was probably best to come back for the rope another day. Went back up to retrieve it today after having a crazy week and no time to get up there and it's gone. If I could get that back it would be much appreciated. Definitely throw in a little reward for whoever returns it.