PAS pissing match
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Let me preface this with stating that I am Newb status... |
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Interesting sideways approach to the |
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Supposing there are draws already at the anchor: |
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A runner or properly tied loop of cord (often tied at halfway for adjustment) is a cheap and reliable solution. Used that method for years until I started climbing more multipitch and wanted something adjustable and switched to the PAS. |
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between this and the "analyze this anchor" ...I'm thinkin troll |
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First of all, don't ever trust your life to one connection. If you check the anchor failure thread, somebody had a near fatal accident when one of the anchor bolts blew. When you're on belay, you have an entire set of draws below you as backup; when you're on direct at the anchors, that is the ONLY thing keeping you alive. If $20 is too much for something that important, perhaps you should reexamine your life choices. Some people will use a PAS and a QuickDraw, which is fine, but I prefer 2 PASes. You could also just use a long sling with a locking biner (cheaper), but I like PASes because they're adjustable and are usually the perfect length for cleaning anchors. Having 2 of the same means that they'll be equal length and should be equalized. |
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The cheapest way to clean the anchor is to just clip into the anchor with two quickdraws and untie. The cheapest and safest way to clean the anchor is to clip into the anchor using a draw, pull a bight of rope through the anchor, tie a figure eight on a bight and clip it to your belay loop w/ a locking biner, then untie and lower off. This is the safest and cheapest option as it does not require the purchase of any gear you dont already have, and you never untie from the rope. The downside is this method wont work if the anchor only has 5/16" chain as you cant usually get two bights of rope though a link that small unless you're using a really thin rope. |
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There are lots of ways to do this. Read up, think about what suits you, borrow some stuff, if you can, and try it out at ground level. I use Purcell's (yes, can be used for ascending), and I've been practicing using the kitchen cabinet handles. DO PRACTICE!! |
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Ted Pinson wrote: 2) 1 Prussik cord for backing up your rappel. 2 is for ascending a rope, which you shouldn't have to ever do (nor would you know how) in a single pitch sport scenario.You do realize he was asking about a Purcell Prusik, right? Not at all the same thing as a normal Prusik cord. |
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I KNOW ABOUT CLIMBING!1!1!1!1! |
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csproul wrote: You do realize he was asking about a Purcell Prusik, right? Not at all the same thing as a normal Prusik cord.Oh, good catch. Yeah, in that case - 2. |
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If you are just cleaning single pitch sport, get two 24" slings and two lockers. Girth hitch them through both tie in points, then when cleaning attach one to each bolt and clean as necessary. |
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Bryan Manning wrote:between this and the "analyze this anchor" ...I'm thinkin trollNot a troll - sorry if my newb questions are suspecious |
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Lightflight wrote: Not a troll - sorry if my newb questions are suspeciousAnd that is why I wouldn't seek advice on the Internet. Always someone that will mock you or question your intentions. Do you have an experienced mentor? |
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Ted Pinson wrote: If $20 is too much for something that important, perhaps you should reexamine your life choices.It's not that I'm not willing to pay it. Just thinking that is the same as 60' of webbing or 40' of cord that could be multipurposed. Thanks all for the feed back. It's got the wheels turning. |
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climbing friend, |
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FrankPS wrote: And that is why I wouldn't seek advice on the Internet. Always someone that will mock you or question your intentions. Do you have an experienced mentor?I don't mind much if people mock me or question my intentions. I also don't put a whole lot of stock in internet as being Fact. I do like to collaborate though to get me thinking and confirm thoughts that I have. I do have experienced mentors I can call on. they seem to use a PAS chain. |
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If the anchor was built like the one I mocked up in the picture, couldnt I just clip into the anchor then proceed with cleaning procedure? |
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You don't have to have a PAS but I like mine alot (well sterling version of it). I use it to climb in on single and multi pitch. I have used it to build anchors when I ran out of slings on the way up pitches. I use it to hang my hammock when I camp etc. |
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Take a 120 cm nylon sling, tie 2 overhand knots ... Girth hitch it to your harness |
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bearbreeder wrote:Take a 120 cm nylon sling, tie 2 overhand knots ... Girth hitch it to your harness Just as "safe" as a PAS, perhaps more so at a fraction of the cost Thats all there is to it ;)Technically weaker due to the knots (well maybe the same as a PAS version but weaker than sterling) but you should not plan on taking a factor 2 fall on one. |