Hangboard n00b, not a beginner climber?
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I found an old Metolious S(t)imulator in my mother in law's basement. I hung it at my house. I've got both bungee cords and pulleys set up to take weight off. |
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Is your third current weakness trolling? |
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Yeah I would say the weakness you need to work on is trolling. There is a plethora of MP threads, books, articles, and web pages dedicated to this. Start there. |
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Micah and Grog, and others since I've noticed a trend of this lately. |
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SO let's pretend this is not a troll: |
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Do whatever that doesn't bore you to death: |
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"Self-Coached Climber" doesn't have hangboard specifics, but does have great instructions for building your own program with the broad goals you have. |
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There's an app I use called Boulder Trainer. You can download training plans specific to your board and goals or build your own. It works well for me. |
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Digit trainer is a good app with pre made workouts or you can build your own using the app. |
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reboot wrote:Do whatever that doesn't bore you to death: Repeaters, max hang (10 sec ish), longer than max hang (20-30 sec). One arm hang (take off weight if needed), L-hang progression to front lever, pull-ups (yes, pull-ups) on holds you can crank 3-5 reps of, have the wife hang off your back... Unfortunately there are only so much you can do on a hangboard, so watch a video (preferably not comedy) while you are at it.It'll be interesting to see how you adapt to the board, since you have a history of being pretty strong. I suspect you'll get your power and endurance back pretty quickly no matter what, once you escape school. Hangboard isn't really best for endurance or power, but both will get better if you rebuild your strength on the board. Reboot offers good advice but just don't listen to him! He's freakishly strong. No one arms!!! Seriously, goal 1 should be avoiding injury. I believe that repeaters are a little safer for a board novice. 6 seconds on/4 off, repeat 6 times, rest 3 minutes between sets. Advance to 7/3 X 6 when possible. Choose maybe half a dozen grips based on where you think you might be climbing. Emphasize open grip for tendon safety. Two or three sets will usually give you better results. Personally I prefer more grips and fewer sets (in fact, just a single set), which I feel is more transferable to real rock, but that's anti-established wisdom. If you decide to go for max hangs, maybe try 10 seconds on a hold/ intensity you could theoretically maintain for 13 seconds. (This is Eva Lopez's program.) Still reasonably safe. Rest 2-3 minutes between these 1 rep sets and do maybe 3 sets on each grip. I varied this by doing 2RM hangs (8 seconds on/4 off/8 more seconds on) which I liked a lot. I know you have a lot of experience with endurance training, not sure about strength training. If you know how your body best builds strength, (i.e. low rep/high intensity vs higher rep/lower intensity) then you should just mimic that pattern. Goal 2 is to avoid terminal boredom. Funny, it doesn't bother me at all, I just turn on the radio and spend most of my rest periods trying to remember when I'm supposed to start the next rep! If you can study for two years, you can hangboard. |
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Kyle Tarry wrote: I discovered a new search tool, it's called Google, and I think it's really going to catch on. lmgtfy.com/?q=hangboard+tra… Top hits: metoliusclimbing.com/traini… climbing.com/skills/copy-of… trainingbeta.com/mark-and-m… rockandice.com/lates-news/k…Yup. Google works pretty darn well, being the big search engine. Unfortunately, I was referring to MP, which is tiny by comparison. Thanks for posting up! :-) |
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Kyle Tarry wrote: Here, let me help: lmgtfy.com/?q=site%3Amounta…Fair enough! Consider me happily skewered, although this is the power of Google, again. Don't be too hard on me-i have to deal with really clunky databases and unfriendly search engines for my job. And, since the mid 80's. But, I've also got to watch it all change and evolve, which, I have to admit, has been a blast, and will continue to be. We're fast approaching some interesting tipping points on a lot of fronts. Exciting! |