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The Erik Sloan ethics thread

SirTobyThe3rd M · · Salt Lake City · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 2,230

I firmly believe in the community "policing our own", and keeping The Man from getting involved, which tends to result in overly burdensome restrictions.

Every situation is unique, but there are no actual question about many of Sloan's actions. Retrobolting around cruxes, because you can't climb at the standard the route requires, in Yosemite, has never been acceptable.

vast majority of the climbing community does not support these actions in the Valley or anywhere else.

Yet he obfuscates, and basically sounds like a retarded puppet, pull the string "Woot, stoke, everyone does it, lets talk about something else, stewardship, send me money, Hey Gang WOot St0ke!!!11".

100%

Very good points you made. Thanks for the wisdom mixed with some humor.

WOOT! STOKED for SPRING BRAH!

It is sad Erik's positive contributions are being overshadowed by the few ridiculously thoughtless actions. Or actions that he didn't think would be a big deal, I don't know. Internet is a tough place. :/

Larry Harpe · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 43

Hey Will, glad to see that you're going to the ditch to clean up some of those messes. I'd be happy to help out. Let me know when you're going. Maybe we could get some routes in too.

Will S · · Joshua Tree · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 1,061

But Burch, the problem there is, I don't drink.

I'm very proud of our kids. Six of them just made it to nationals last weekend, which is over half the team. With no children myself, it's about as close as I get to what you'll start enjoying in a few months...bragging on your kid, showing pictures to strangers, and trying to plot how to get a young-un to do something they don't really want to do (deadlifts in my case, pooping in the toilet in yours). Your life is about to take a wild turn, no more soloing ice climbs, no more driving like a maniac on the freeways.

Post up some pics when the youngster arrives.

Larry, I'll let you know. I'm on the fence between taking a sabbatical from work, or moving to another job. One would give me all the free time and an open schedule to get it done, the other would have me trying to squeeze it into 3-day weekends.

Trad Princess · · Not That Into Climbing · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 1,175
Will S wrote:But Burch, the problem there is, I don't drink. I'm very proud of our kids. Six of them just made it to nationals last weekend, which is over half the team. With no children myself, it's about as close as I get to what you'll start enjoying in a few months...bragging on your kid, showing pictures to strangers, and trying to plot how to get a young-un to do something they don't really want to do (deadlifts in my case, pooping in the toilet in yours). Your life is about to take a wild turn, no more soloing ice climbs, no more driving like a maniac on the freeways. Post up some pics when the youngster arrives.

Observers can drink, I do it all for the lurkers, my friend ;)

That's awesome about your team, and I understand the pride. Wife already pre-shut me down on posting baby pics, but I'll probably do some of those courtroom-style sketches in lieu - should be a real hoot. Life has already taken the turn in advance (and it's all good) and I couldn't be more excited. Hopefully my child will know the difference between a re and a retro.

Tony B · · Around Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 24,690
Adam Burch wrote: Wife already pre-shut me down on posting baby pics,

Burchy: "Hmm... yep, things gonna change."

Erik Sloan · · Yosemite, CA · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 336

Yo Gang!

Thanks for the baby pic! Awesome! I got a little one myself.

Will S - It sounds like you do not believe that I am replying directly to your concerns.

One of your main concerns appears to be disclosure. That is the most interesting part about this thread. I have fully disclosed all of the bolts that I have replaced or added on Yosemite climbs. I believe strongly that anyone who alters the landscape of public lands should have to report it. If this one thing became part of the Yosemite climbing policy, it would go along way to helping people understand the complicated nature of the climbing world here(bouldering ethics compared to sport climbing ethics compared to trad ethics compared to bigwall ethics.

While we have agreed to disagree(any suggestion that the MP admin is favoring me by deleting posts is comical - plenty of friends and supporters of me have deleted their posts here and on ST because they were turned off by the aggressive, negative nature of the posts), I do believe that we should be optimistic about the future of climbing, climbing management, climbing history, and climbing interpretation in Yosemite. This is such an amazing place. I hope each of you are able to visit here and experience the magic!

Woot!
Erik
Yosemitebigwall.com

Will S · · Joshua Tree · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 1,061
Erik Sloan wrote:Will S - It sounds like you do not believe that I am replying directly to your concerns. One of your main concerns appears to be disclosure.

You have reading comprehension problems, I haven't said jack shit about "disclosure". Let me type slowly, so maybe you will get it:

STOP RETROBOLTING.
STOP BUILDING PLATFORMS AND SAWING TREE LIMBS.
STOP YOUR ILLEGAL POWER DRILLNG.
STOP DRILLING AROUND CRUXES BECAUSE YOU DON'T HAVE THE SKILLS TO CLIMB THE ROUTE AS IT EXISTS.

Clear enough wootboy?

Trad Princess · · Not That Into Climbing · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 1,175

delete delete delete

Rubin Field · · portland · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 95
Will S wrote: You have reading comprehension problems, I haven't said jack shit about "disclosure". Let me type slowly, so maybe you will get it: STOP RETROBOLTING. STOP BUILDING PLATFORMS AND SAWING TREE LIMBS. STOP YOUR ILLEGAL POWER DRILLNG. STOP DRILLING AROUND CRUXES BECAUSE YOU DON'T HAVE THE SKILLS TO CLIMB THE ROUTE AS IT EXISTS. Clear enough wootboy?

Hey, no need to be a dick man. lets just have constructive conversations.
btw, your nipples probably smell like mustard

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276
Rubin Field wrote: Hey, no need to be a dick man. lets just have constructive conversations. btw, your nipples probably smell like mustard

Hey Rubin,

If you had read the whole thread, you'd realize people have tried to have a constructive conversation but aren't getting answers, just the runaround. Don't be so quick to jump to conclusions. (oh, your profile says you're 17)

Stagg54 Taggart · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2006 · Points: 10

I thought witch hunts died in the 1800's

You guys gonna sell tickets to the burning at the stake?

J Q · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 50

This shit is getting comical, every time another witch hunter posts another repetitive personal attack I feel like grabbing my power drill and heading for the wilderness, so clearly the thread is beginning to back fire on the witch hunters.

Look, either Erick is a sociopathic liar (which is possible, he is a climber after all) and if that is true only real consequences will change his behavior, and in the meantime, instead of anything constructive, climbing in the valley is getting some pretty bad press for no good reason. Or, Erick is not a sociopathic liar and the witch hunters are fucking totally insane (which is possible, they are climbers after all).

Most likely, of course, is that it is a combination of the two, which is why this shit is getting so dang comical.

Bill Lawry · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 1,822
J Q

: "...I feel like grabbing my power drill and heading for the wilderness ...."

Dear god,

Please let there be equal numbers out there of combined pathological liars and witch hunters who feel like grabbing their crow bars and hack saws and heading for the wilderness.

;-)

Tony B · · Around Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 24,690
Bill Lawry wrote:J Q Dear god, Please let there be equal numbers out there of combined pathological liars and witch hunters who feel like grabbing their crow bars and hack saws and heading for the wilderness. ;-)

Give a man a fish, feed him for a day, teach a man to fish, feed him for a life time.
Likewise:
Use the crowbar on the bolt, get rid of one retro, use it on the bolter...

M Mobley · · Bar Harbor, ME · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 911
Tony B wrote: Give a man a fish, feed him for a day, teach a man to fish, feed him for a life time. Likewise: Use the crowbar on the bolt, get rid of one retro, use it on the bolter...
Tim Lutz wrote:soooo cute when Tony threatens homicide for the offense of a small hole in the rock

The Tradiban will blow a cliff(internet threats that is) up just to keep it out of the hands of infidels.

Bill Lawry · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 1,822
T Roper wrote: The Tradiban will blow a cliff(internet threats that is) up just to keep it out of the hands of infidels.

Well played. Seriously, in my strong feelings about the issue, it is always good to inject a little humanness with humor.

Bill Kirby · · Keene New York · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480
Tony B wrote: Give a man a fish, feed him for a day, teach a man to fish, feed him for a life time. Likewise: Use the crowbar on the bolt, get rid of one retro, use it on the bolter...

Haha.. You have any Idea what you're talking about? I doubt it so let me tell you what ive witnessed.

I saw a something involving a digging bar. The guy used it like a sword, swinging it over his head in a downward motion. The one on the receiving end got hit in the head, jumped up afterwards and was running around in a staggering matter. A couple more swings.. I guess once the adrenaline worn off that poor bastard was stumbling, more swings, then crawling. And some more swings.. After about ten more swings there was no movement anddddd finally dead.

Remember it's going to take ten or fifteen swings. Good luck!

J Q · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 50
Bill Kirby wrote: Haha.. You have any Idea what you're talking about? I doubt it so let me tell you what ive witnessed. I saw a something involving a digging bar. The guy used it like a sword, swinging it over his head in a downward motion. The one on the receiving end got hit in the head, jumped up afterwards and was running around in a staggering matter. A couple more swings.. I guess once the adrenaline worn off that poor bastard was stumbling, more swings, then crawling. And some more swings.. After about ten more swings there was no movement anddddd finally dead. Remember it's going to take ten or fifteen swings. Good luck!

I would bet Tony doesn't have the strength to swing anything heavy that many times simply based on his most recent ascents, although he does like a good internet wang-slapping, small as it is; for that he does not tire.

csproul · · Pittsboro...sort of, NC · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 330
Bill Kirby wrote: Haha.. You have any Idea what you're talking about? I doubt it so let me tell you what ive witnessed. I saw a something involving a digging bar. The guy used it like a sword, swinging it over his head in a downward motion. The one on the receiving end got hit in the head, jumped up afterwards and was running around in a staggering matter. A couple more swings.. I guess once the adrenaline worn off that poor bastard was stumbling, more swings, then crawling. And some more swings.. After about ten more swings there was no movement anddddd finally dead. Remember it's going to take ten or fifteen swings. Good luck!

between this and the knife fight incidents you've described, you've led quite a life....you must hang out with a much more 'interesting crowd" than I!

Tony B · · Around Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 24,690
Tim Lutz wrote:soooo cute when Tony threatens homicide for the offense of a small hole in the rock
Senior Hernandez wrote: Jesus, talk about an internet tough guy wanker.

Hey Tim,
Are you as stupid as you seem? It would be really cute that you guys could take me seriously, but I don't see the part where I actually threatened anybody with anything.

perhaps you failed to read the last 2 things to which I replied and failed to put things in context. But that's like thinking 2 moves ahead in checkers, so perhaps difficult for you.

Regardless. I'm glad to see that just so much as I am going to kill people on the net, you are going to intervene on the net. You see, because all of this is entirely serious.

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