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Early May: Best Climbing Lower 48

Original Post
pfinnegan · · Boulder, CO · Joined May 2004 · Points: 65

In early May, where can I find the best climbing in the lower 48?

Constraints:
1. 3-4 day trip (power weekend) so convenience is a factor (approaches are fine, but approach + large drive would be undesirable)
2. Sport or trad
3. Single or multi-pitch

Early thoughts are: Red Rock, RRG, Maple.

What epic destination am I missing? Thanks!

gavinsmith · · Toronto, Ontario · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 86

In late April/early May 2015 I hit Red Rock, Indian Creek, Joshua Tree, Castle Valley, the Fisher Towers, and Zion... the only one that was uncomfortable was Zion, man was it ever hot in the sun at times. The others were all great, especially Joshua Tree and Red Rock.

Eric Engberg · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 0

The Valley

Mark Thesing · · Central Indiana · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 60

If you haven't been to Yosemite yet, I would put that high on your list. You wouldn't be disappointed.

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
pfinnegan wrote:In early May, where can I find the best climbing in the lower 48? Constraints: 1. 3-4 day trip (power weekend) so convenience is a factor (approaches are fine, but approach + large drive would be undesirable) 2. Sport or trad 3. Single or multi-pitch Early thoughts are: Red Rock, RRG, Maple. What epic destination am I missing? Thanks!
What is a large drive to you?
Where are you driving from?
Eric Carlos · · Soddy Daisy, TN · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 121

Maple would be great. Red Rocks would be hot as balls in May.

pfinnegan · · Boulder, CO · Joined May 2004 · Points: 65

Thanks for the responses! I'll be traveling from Boulder.

What I meant by long drive is from wherever "base" is for destination x, I don't want to drive an hour and then face a > 1 hour approach. If I'm camping in the area, then a longer approach is fine.

Basically I want to maximize time on the rock. I plan to travel day 1, climb days 2,3,4 and travel day 4.

Is Red Rocks really that bad in early May? I was dreaming about the OR.

Ken Noyce · · Layton, UT · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 2,648
pfinnegan wrote: Is Red Rocks really that bad in early May?
Yes.
Kevin Piarulli · · Redmond, OR · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 1,683

By "dreaming about the OR" do you mean the rainbow wall original route? If so that wall stays shady and cool and would definitely be a worthy objective for a power weekend. I climbed it in late april and wore a jacket at belays. Approach is a different story, bring lots of water.

pfinnegan · · Boulder, CO · Joined May 2004 · Points: 65

Yes - thinking about the Rainbow Wall OR. And also other potentially shady outings, maybe on the BV wall (Fiddler, Texas Hold'em, etc).

Changing gears...what about RRG? Are conditions ideal in early May?

Mark Thesing · · Central Indiana · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 60

Temps are good at RRG in May but rain is going to be a crapshoot.

Darren S · · Minneapolis, MN · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 3,388
pfinnegan wrote:Yes - thinking about the Rainbow Wall OR. And also other potentially shady outings, maybe on the BV wall (Fiddler, Texas Hold'em, etc).
I have spent many late May, early June days in BV, it is one of the best kept secrets of RR. Also good that time of year is Challenger Wall, Jet Stream Wall and the Blood Wall.

edit to add: I climbed Drifitng (Jet Stream Wall) on June 1, 2014. Wall went into the shade around 12:00 noon, temps in town were close to 100 (around 90 for Red Rock). Totally comfortable in shorts and t-shirt on the wall.
pfinnegan · · Boulder, CO · Joined May 2004 · Points: 65

Thank you Darren. Drifting looks sick!

ottice webb · · Stanton KY · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 5
Mark Thesing wrote:Temps are good at RRG in May but rain is going to be a crapshoot.
Yeah don't come to the Red it sux
ottice webb · · Stanton KY · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 5
Mark Thesing wrote:Temps are good at RRG in May but rain is going to be a crapshoot.
Yeah don't come to the Red it sux
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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