Worst pitch in Indian Creek now has anchors?
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Had Broken Tooth to myself the day after Thanksgiving and found these (new?) bolts at the top of the first pitch |
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Why the hell would anyone bolt that chosspile? I'm still cleaning sand out of my cooter after that misrable slog. |
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That's what I thought when I read through the comments for the route. Seems like a waste of $20 when a 70m gets you up and down both pitches. |
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Awwwww someone decided to place an anchor on top of this dumpy lil choss pile ?!?! It's mid December discuss ?!?! |
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You think someone bailed from P1 and didn't want to leave other gear? Or just didn't have the rope to get down? |
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I bailed off this thing in the rain years ago with some down climbing ? You can make it down to the lil ramp at the start with a 60m rope... Probably Just a case of "it has anchors in the book" |
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Bailed and happened to have a bolting kit in their car? The next person up will probably still be able to smell the fear and shame. |
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I find it challenging to believe that someone bailed whilst climbing and happened to have bolting gear but no 70m rope to get all the way down. I mean if you climb the grovel that is pitch 1 you're going to climb the nice 2nd pitch. |
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probably some green plate try-hard shit themselves, and decided to cover their shame-bail in shiny bolts and rock dust. "creeksgiving" party week, and all that. |
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Ah, well that didn't take long to become a Utah vs. Colorado argument. My butt hurts a little bit. You don't own the Creek because it's within Utah borders Clausti. |
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Those "try hards" strike again ! After what I saw over this past thanksgiving at the critics choice parking lot / camp with over 20 people sprawled out shooting guns!!! I dident look but had to be "green plates" ............. GO |
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Perhaps we greenies should have thicker skin. Mine is fairly thick but I still think it's petty to promote the whole interstate argument. Maybe Clausti's just petty. Dunno. |
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I can't take any credit, I'm just a white plate transplant like the rest of them, and before that the original green plate of VeeTee. |
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Admittedly I'm fairly new to the proj and to the utah/Colorado pissing contest so what is the preferred counter to "greenie"? Will "Utard" suffice? ; ) |
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It was probably the same kid who put up these choss boulders . Don't let me derail the CO vs UT argument, though. They're my favorite. |
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Curious if it was the FA party? Or if whoever did place the bolts contacted the FA party? There's a guy in Yosemite currently taking a hammering on MP and Super topo for adding midway anchors in the Valley. |
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I was at Critic's Choice just before Turkeyday, and there were people who had just drilled lots of holes. They bolted the slab boulder at the top of the approach, and also bolted the chimney behind the pillar just right of Critic's Choice. The new plaque said "Bolt's Before Bros", but apparently it was already an established route, complete with its own pre-existing plaque. I also saw some new bolted anchors I assume to be their's, 30 feet or less off the ground, made with neon green webbing. It seemed to be unnecessarily visible. |
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Really? Neon Green? |
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Shelton Hatfield wrote:I was at Critic's Choice just before Turkeyday, and there were people who had just drilled lots of holes. They bolted the slab boulder at the top of the approach, and also bolted the chimney behind the pillar just right of Critic's Choice. The new plaque said "Bolt's Before Bros", but apparently it was already an established route, complete with its own pre-existing plaque. I also saw some new bolted anchors I assume to be their's, 30 feet or less off the ground, made with neon green webbing. It seemed to be unnecessarily visible.Well when you say "but apparently it was already an established route" what do you mean? What made that apparent? Because if it's more than 'apparent' it isn't that hard to rap off of the higher anchors to remove the lower, and a plaque is pretty easy to make go away. |
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Tony B wrote: Well when you say "but apparently it was already an established route" what do you mean? What made that apparent? Because if it's more than 'apparent' it isn't that hard to rap off of the higher anchors to remove the lower, and a plaque is pretty easy to make go away.I say "apparently" because I didn't see the old plaque. I just saw the protection bolts in the chimney with fresh rock dust, and the new plaque. A few days later, an acquaintance who went to Critic's Choice told me he saw the old plaque, and was upset that the established route had been retro-bolted. Its not a matter of removing a new anchor, since the climb still finishes at the top of the pillar that forms the chimney. And I didn't mean to imply that the neon green anchor was at the top of this chimney. The new neon green anchors were at the top of other shorty pillar climbs. |
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This is one of the three new routes ... This pile will kill some one ! The top 4 feet moved on me wen I jammed it!!!! The bottled chimney in question was put up in 2006 an is called Bro's before hols ...... Who ever did this bolting has a skewed moral compass wen it comes to route development in the creek...
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