Forever War

Hey guys, here is a little info about what I thought of the climb.
With a chest deep squeeze at the lip a helmet is out of the question, (you would hang yourself) The initial crux sequence involves a back/head smear off a large protruding block that, if you fall, will scramble your brains (and sent Pamela to the hospital). Yes this could be climbed without the bolts, and maybe in the future it will be!

As for the grade, I thought it was 13C

Man threads like this are weird, so much talk with no direct experience... Obviously not meaning you Danny.

As belayer and follower ( not quite clean for me, yet) of "3rd ascent" it was the place to be! Brilliant, insightful, work Jim!

Beautiful

i don't understand what just happened here...

B.O.MP. (Best of Mountainproject)

I'm not sure what is a greater achievement, the send or that post! Either way, nice work Jim.

Warrior wrote:+++++++++++++ A brief history of some bolts in the Voo. Did (or would?) anyone Shit Talk about Scarpelli's bolts on Squat? Possibly, but not to Bob's face, I would gander. I wouldn't deign anyone would Shit Talk Bob about any of his routes. I'd dare anyone to go up there with just a few draws and "redpoint" Squat without big cams...ha ha ha. No, but seriously, don't do it, Bob's bolts are the broken batch Leeper hangers and you'll probably get hurt. But Bob's bolts are fine? Of course, who wants beef with Bob? ======= ======= Who Shit Talks the 2 bolts on Right Parallel Space? Anyone? Anyone? Bueller? When I first did RPS 5-6 years ago, though the guide said it had 2, it only had one...and it was a coffin nail at that. (Always be ready for misinformation...I wasn't surprised, but I kept thinking I was missing a bolt) Of course by the time you near the end of RPS, a fall would be unthinkable and the bolt (even the new ones) would do nothing to stop you from getting rekt...(gee, kind of like Forever War!). These new ASCA (?) bolts are fine? Of course. I clipped them last month and the route is a tad safer (but not much, really)... ======= ......

A couple of historical notes.

After Craig Luebben redpointed Squat, he returned about a year later and climbed it without using the bolts.

Describing Right Parallel Space, the 2004 guidebook (“Rock Climbing at Vedauwoo, Wyoming”) said, “…hope that the two old bolts have been replaced;” I think that should have been warning enough.

Matt Clark and I replaced the bolts on Right Parallel Space a couple of years ago, and yes, in accordance with the standards recommended by the American Safe Climbing Association. Using a #4 Camalot plus the 2 bolts, the climb is well protected to about 2/3 way up. At that point it is runout, but the climbing is much easier as the crack widens. Of course, wider chimneys are easier to climb, but the fall is usually worse. Matt and I would have liked to have added a third bolt to bring the climb up to more modern standards of protection, but didn’t feel we had the right to change a classic climb established in 1970. It’s easy to see the point of view of the first ascensionists. They bolted by hand and on lead. When the climbing eased up, they just climbed to the ledge.

Cheers,
Rob.calm

I'm in!

Forgot the sunscreen

Warrior,

I never had an issue with that bolt. I never posted a thing about bolts on this route. You're confused. We're even then, after reading your posts, I have to admit to being a little confused myself. I would say stream of consciousness but somehow more planned out.

Jealousy? Of what? It's a route I never aspired to. I have esoteric tastes in Vedauwoo and elsewhere. Usually if I'm psyched, nobody else is.

My entire reason for posting was to simply see if the rating made sense. The FA after all has quite a history of..., let's call it "embellishment".

It sounds like this one holds up, if you say so, I'll take your word for it. So congrats to you, the FA, and whoever else has done this thing.

I look forward to deciphering your future posts.

Warrior, are you Offwidth Pam? If not you should edit in your info so we all know who you are...

Whoever you are, is this what we get to look forward to when you visit Vedauwoo, or interact with the climbers there? Negative publicity? Don't the folks around there prefer no publicity?

I for one would just like to publicly say that this shit is embarrassing and does not represent Vedauwoo nor the climbers who climb there. It reflects directly upon the character of ONE particular person/group of people who frequent the area, and those who vouch for them or repeat their drivel, and that is all. This group apparently includes octogenarian guidbook authors, rob.calm, and any companies, businesses, or publicly funded institutions which involve or associate themselves with this particular person/group of people. I have no association with any of them.

As an aside, good job to whoever it was that finally got up that thing. First 5.13, and second try or whatever, makes it extra proud :)

JNE wrote:Warrior, are you Offwidth Whoever you are, is this what we get to look forward to when you visit Vedauwoo, or interact with the climbers there? Negative publicity? Don't the folks around there prefer no publicity? I for one would just like to publicly say that this shit is embarrassing and does not represent Vedauwoo nor the climbers who climb there. It reflects directly upon the character of ONE particular person/group of people who frequent the area, and those who vouch for them or repeat their drivel, and that is all. This group apparently includes octogenarian guidbook authors, rob.calm, and any companies, businesses, or publicly funded institutions which involve or associate themselves with this particular person/group of people. I have no association with any of them.

You just had to come by and ruin all the fun.

Warrior, you make me laugh, cry and piss myself a little. You should write a bathroom book or a coffee table book..oh f*uck it write a novel!

Thank you for lurking on the van thread. I feel a little bit better knowing that you are there, I feel like you got my back kinda like Kazaam but probably more like Steel. I will be posting some pictures of her newest beautifying additions shortly.

Warrior, you make me laugh, cry and piss myself a little. You should write a bathroom book or a coffee table book..oh f*uck it write a novel!

Better yet, make a movie and premier it on Reel Rock. The producers of that will LOVE your story. BIG TIME money making opportunity. Don't pass this one up ;)

Warrior wrote:Sounds to me like you should take some beef up with the Blueprint Part Dank first and foremost if you want "media blackout" (lol) on the Voo...are you Broncos fan? Maybe there's some common ground somewhere

But ain't nobody f*%cking with my clique. Cause, you know, my block behind me like I'm coming out the driveway.

Of course, JNE and I could have a discourse, but it will be hard to pencil him in, you see, it's grind day, from friday to next friday. I've been up straight for nine days and need a spa day.

But, since I'm such a successful multimedia powerhouse, I should walk into Sender films like I'm the shit, tell em give me $50 million or I'm gonna quit. See most spray-lord's base level ain't at my base level.

#rimsonthesprintervan #yeticoolerbottleservice

Some more hashtags: #blackoutthevoo #yesletsdothat #seriously #yeahitsagoodidea #butisntitvisiblefromi80 #yeahsurebutimsadthat2britsarebetteratOWthanme #thatseemslikeaveryinsularworldview #thatshowwerollin #Laramie #Laramiestrong

highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion wrote:Warrior, I never had an issue with that bolt. I never posted a thing about bolts on this route. You're confused. We're even then, after reading your posts, I have to admit to being a little confused myself. I would say stream of consciousness but somehow more planned out. Jealousy? Of what? It's a route I never aspired to. I have esoteric tastes in Vedauwoo and elsewhere. Usually if I'm psyched, nobody else is.

#thatseemslike #youregoisfedbybeing #differentand #trendy #areyoualaramiehipster #laramie #laramiestrong

Seems like the #haterz decided to #tapout that's cool bros, I understand. Just keep it #Laramiestrong

Waiting patiently for Part 1.875

This thread needs Jaybro and Edl up in here with some big blue balloons!

Nice job JA.

I'm willing to GOOB it up, (I said GOOB, not lube), provided you're willing to share some of that funny paper.