Need Help Planning Our Climbing Trip to UT, WY and Surrounding Areas

Who wants to play another round of Help Plan My Climbing Trip?

My climbing partner and I will be near Provo for work this weekend, and we’re taking the following week to cruise around do some climbing. It will be our first time in that part of the West and we’re looking for suggestions on where go. I posted this in the Northern Utah forum because that is our point of departure, but please don’t limit suggestions to that area.

Parameters:

• Starting near Provo on the morning of Sunday, June 28; need to be back in SLC by early afternoon on Sunday, July 5. We have nearly eight full days to play with, so anything within a two-day drive of SLC in any direction is fair game.
• Our gear includes a trad rack, a bunch of quickdraws, camping and backpacking gear, a rental car, and a thirst for adventure.
• We really enjoy moderate, multi-pitch trad. However, we are up for anything radical—whether trad, sport, multi- or single-pitch—from 5.easy up to about 5.10c/d.
• The forecast looks like it will be pretty hot in a lot of places, so bonus points for areas that might have a little cooler temps.
• Additional bonus points for camping beta.
• We were in City of Rocks last year, so we would like to check out something different this time.

Thanks for the help!

p.s. Also, where is the best gear shop in or near SLC or Provo?

Lone Peak Cirque

If your starting In Provo, Rock Canyon is excellent.

Some areas in Utah I would suggest
Rock Canyon
Ferguson Canyon
Little Cotton Wood Canyon
Maple Canyon
Fisher Towers
San Rafael Swell
Take your pick!

If your up to something extremely challenging, the 2nd tallest vertical cliff face in North America is in Utah Notch Peak.

For camping, BLM land you can camp for free just tread lightly and use previously developed areas.

Heat is defiantly a problem this time of year, you can manage it by climbing very early or late. Ferguson Canyon can be cooler option.

If you are interested in gear PM me. I have some knowledge of where to find deep discounted new gear in SLC, the deals are to good to post.

• Edited for context.

Mike Marmar wrote:Lone Peak Cirque

Kind of a brutal slog in this heat (six miles and 5600' elevation gain with zero water enroute)...and for visitors with only 8 days, there are better suggestions. But I agree the routes in the LPC are stellar.

Super Fluke wrote:If your starting In Provo, Rock Canyon is excellent. Some areas in Utah I would suggest Rock Canyon Ferguson Canyon Little Cotton Wood Canyon Maple Canyon Fisher Towers San Rafael Swell Take your pick! If your up to something more challanging, the 2nd tallest vertical cliff face in North America is in Utah Notch Peak. For camping, BLM land you can camp for free just tread lightly and use previously developed areas.

The Fishers, the Swell, and Notch Peak will all be brutally hot. Notch Peak is not to be taken lightly - remote, alpinish loose rock, and apparently the easier pitches (5.9 on an 11?) can be extremely exciting. (I have not climbed anything on Notch.)
If the OP is looking for cooler temps, perhaps the Uintas (the climbing is at 10500').
Also, most of the climbing in Little Cottonwood Canyon is on the north side of the canyon, meaning full sun on most routes. At this time of year it's and early morning/evening destination.

Marc801 wrote: Kind of a brutal slog in this heat...and for visitors with only 8 days, there are better suggestions. But I agree the routes in the LPC are stellar.

Yeah, an early start on the approach would be crucial. But, I don't see anything wrong with spending 2 or 3 days out of an 8 day trip at the cirque. There is plenty of amazing climbing up there in the range the OP is looking for.

Greeley wrote:p.s. Also, where is the best gear shop in or near SLC or Provo?

In SLC there's:
REI - 3300 East 3300 South (there's also a smaller one in Sandy at South Towne Mall)
IME - just around the corner from REI in the same strip mall.
Black Diamond - ~2000 East 3900 South

Shoutout for DK and the gang in Provo at Mountainworks.

BCC's Sundial is a fun gig. It'll be a day, so, start early to avoid the heat. I think Spruces campground is open. You could do some craggin' the day you arrive. Steort's is a must do. Outside Corner.

You got a few days...maybe drive to the Sawtooths and bag the Finger of Fate and/or Elephants Perch. Could also hit the Tetons. The lower elevation rock routes should be good to go.

Snow might be melted out enough to do a route on Devil's Castle by the weekend of the fourth.

Uintas. Plenty of stuff. Midweek up there nice and less crowded.

Wild Iris within striking distance. Tensleep further but doable.

Maple during the week. Weekends are crowded and there's a two dog minimum...

Lone Peak.

Plenty of stuff.

Brian in SLC wrote:Snow might be melted out enough to do a route on Devil's Castle by the weekend of the fourth.

OP: Devil's Castle is at the Alta ski area, forming part of its south boundary. If the road is open, park up at the lot next to the campground entrance. Beware of loose rock. (Limestone in an alpine setting)

There's also the Hellgate Cliffs across the street. Yes, in full sun, but at 8600'.

Edit to add: the summer road at Alta (Albion Basin) opens July 1. The campground opens for walk-in on 17 July.

You'll fry your asses at most Utah areas....multi pitch trad up to 5.10 ?? Winds is the place

There's always the Winds, although you'll eat most of a day driving and most of a day hiking in. And then there's that pesky rumor that all the climbing in Wyoming is crap.

john strand wrote:Winds is the place

Do you need to protect the rubber parts of the car from marmots and other varmints at the trailhead parking area? If so, is there typically wire mesh netting available like so many of the backcountry trailheads in BC?

This is a precaution the OP may not be familiar with. Marmots et al seem to like the taste of various car fluids and will chew through rubber to get to them. It would be a drag to come out of the CotT and find your brake lines and radiator hoses shredded on your rental car 40 miles from pavement with no cell service.

MD1 wrote:There's always the Winds, although you'll eat most of a day driving and most of a day hiking in. And then there's that pesky rumor that all the climbing in Wyoming is crap.

It is all crap..except for the good places like.....

It is never too hot to go to Lone Peak Cirque. As long as you start hiking by 6 AM you'll have good conditions going up, I meant throwing up.

Anything in upper LCC is game. The road into Albion was gated Sunday, however. If its open when you arrive you should consider Devil's Castle. Black Streak is the classic. Don't do Brian's route. You're probably not up for that much adventure.

Do Hell Raiser to Till Hell Freezes Over on Hellgate. That's probably enough adventure for your whole trip right there. With yarding its within your grade range.

You're not adequately equipped to go to Notch Peak, though the timing is good. Maybe on your next trip.

There are routes in the Uintas that meet your description, but I can't tell you what they are.

If you need advice go to IME. No one else should be trusted, especially anyone who posts here.

dd--you high ? I wanna be at the rock at Lone Peak by 6 this time of year

And,, if you go to IME, don't listen to anything Andy says...nothing

Thanks for the advice. I have some good stuff to work with.

Lone Peak has water at the 2.5 mile mark, which is after you've gained at least half of your elevation.

One year we started at noon to hike to the Cirque on a 100 degree day. It was slow.

Water flows via snow runoff, so fill your bottles up in the evening in the Cirque or you'll have to walk pretty far out to find water.