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2015 Alpine Rock Conditions

Andy Hansen · · Longmont, CO · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 3,130

I climbed Old Route (Enter the Dragon) on Dragontail Spire for a guides' training. I got a good view of Hallett Peak (no 's). Things seemed relatively dry on the N. Face of Hallett. There was some seeping on the upper 2nd Buttress (Love Route, Better than Love) that could affect the top outs on those routes.

Hallett Peak, North Face 6/18/2015

BirminghamBen · · Birmingham, AL · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 1,620

Alpine Season!!

Tom Fralich · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 0

I'd also be interested in any recent beta for Sharkstooth and The Gash. I'm planning to head there Tues/Wed if the forecast is reasonable.

Gregger Man · · Broomfield, CO · Joined Aug 2004 · Points: 1,759
Tom Fralich wrote:I'd also be interested in any recent beta for Sharkstooth and The Gash. I'm planning to head there Tues/Wed if the forecast is reasonable.
Not the Gash, but nearby.
The base of the Petit has a little more snow than usual for this time of year (top center of photo.)
Sky pond still has ice on part of it, too.

Base of the Petit Grepon, 06/20/15.
Looking down at Lake of Glass 06/20/15. Climber on the Saber if you zoom in.
Andy Hansen · · Longmont, CO · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 3,130

Dry rock on Chasm View Wall. And it appears, in fact, there will be a Diamond season this summer despite what others have said above. Splitter conditions in the Park yesterday... Climbed Directissima on CV Wall.

Lamb's Slide.

Diamante.

Jeff Woodward · · New Haven, CT · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 170

In case it wasn't made clear above, the Petit, Saber, and other alpine rock climbs above Sky Pond are good to go for 2015. It's alpine season, and conditions were fabulous yesterday.

Also, there were 5 parties on the Saber yesterday - maybe more than were on the Petit. I guess people are climbing hard this year!

The Petit and Saber on 6/20/2015.

James Kersey · · Livermore, CO · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 81
Gregger Man wrote: Not the Gash, but nearby. The base of the Petit has a little more snow than usual for this time of year (top center of photo.) Sky pond still has ice on part of it, too.
You were up there this morning? I was on Powell north face snowfields and saw a part of two or three come up behind me near sky pond and then head up that way
James Kersey · · Livermore, CO · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 81
Joe Castellano wrote:Does anybody have info on the trail conditions up to Sky Pond?
Trail is relatively clear up to the split for the gash. Intermittent snow patches from just below the loch up to this point. After this, both towards sky pond and up the gash the snow becomes more prevalent.

The packed snow trail up to lake of glass is quite slick in the wee hours of the morning. The top part of the climb to lake of glass is melted out as is majority of the trail from there to sky pond.

I have no pictures as it was still dark when I went through there.
Eliot Augusto · · Lafayette, CO · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 60

Any guess as to how long Hallett will remain dry this year? I broke my foot and luckily I have only 5 more weeks to go. I really really want to get this in this year.

Joe F. · · Colorado Springs · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 100

Any beta on Sharkstooth?

Gregger Man · · Broomfield, CO · Joined Aug 2004 · Points: 1,759
James Kersey wrote: You were up there this morning? I was on Powell north face snowfields and saw a part of two or three come up behind me near sky pond and then head up that way
(Wrong date on the caption - 06/20/15. I'm still groggy from my nap today.)
Nic Lazz · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 315

Anyone got any new news on Hallet?

Andy Hansen · · Longmont, CO · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 3,130
Nic Lazzareschi wrote:Anyone got any new news on Hallet?
Hallett N. Face looks relatively dry. Rock routes are probably good to go. A bit of wetness at the top of 2nd Buttress around Love/Better Than Love route. See photo above.
KM Klimbin · · Denver, CO · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 20

If anyone has any beta about trail conditions up to Black Lake & Spearhead that would be great. We're looking at heading up there next weekend. thanks

James Kersey · · Livermore, CO · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 81
Gregger Man wrote: (Wrong date on the caption - 06/20/15. I'm still groggy from my nap today.)
Ah, carry on then!
Jason Antin · · Golden, CO · Joined May 2009 · Points: 1,375
Andy Hansen wrote: Hallett N. Face looks relatively dry. Rock routes are probably good to go. A bit of wetness at the top of 2nd Buttress around Love/Better Than Love route. See photo above.
We climbed the Second Buttress Tour on Saturday and it was bone dry.
One of Hallett's best pitches!

Near the top on the "Bolt Pitch" of the Second Buttress Tour.
Scott Bennett · · Western North America · Joined Jan 2008 · Points: 1,265

Climbed Pervertical Sanctuary yesterday (6.21.15), was dry and very warm! Other routes on the left side of the Diamond looked dry also, but can't comment on Casual Route. We were mostly able to stay on rock on Upper Keiners, so no need for axes or 'pons there.

Can't comment on the North Chimney, since we approached by climbing Dreamweaver and traversing over via the Loft, Lamb Slide and Broadway. This was super fun, but did require crampons and an axe.

We descended the N. Face, mostly just walking on soft snow, with two rappels past icy sections.

-Scott

Jones · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 5

Walked past the Gash yesterday and took this photo. Not sure if I got the entire approach in the photo, but this should give you an idea. Shortly after the split to Andrews Glacier after Loch Vale, the snow became pretty continuous up to the glacier.

Sharkstooth, 6/21/2015.

Jason Antin · · Golden, CO · Joined May 2009 · Points: 1,375
Scott Bennett wrote:Climbed Pervertical Sanctuary yesterday (6.21.15), was dry and very warm! Other routes on the left side of the Diamond looked dry also, but can't comment on Casual Route. We were mostly able to stay on rock on Upper Keiners, so no need for axes or 'pons there. Can't comment on the North Chimney, since we approached by climbing Dreamweaver and traversing over via the Loft, Lamb Slide and Broadway. This was super fun, but did require crampons and an axe. We descended the N. Face, mostly just walking on soft snow, with two rappels past icy sections. -Scott
Super Link-Up Scott! We saw you guys out there.

Glacier Gorge ? - Any of you guys been out there in the last few days? Hoping to get on the Spearhead but curious about approach conditions.
weston bierma · · Vail, CO · Joined May 2012 · Points: 35

Conditions on the Petit Grepon were superb and casual yesterday!

Petite Grepon 06/23/2015

Petite Grepon 06/23/2015

Petite Grepon 06/23/2015

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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