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Boots for Ama Dablam

Original Post
Jonathan Burton · · Denver, CO · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 0

A buddy and I are going to climb Ama Dablam this spring but I had a question about the Scarpa Inverno boots. They are marketed as high alpine double but some sources said 5000-6000 while other outfitters claimed they are ideal for Ama Dablam. Any experience/recommendations?

chris vultaggio · · The Gunks · Joined Dec 2008 · Points: 535

They are warm but clunky - make sure you get some rock mileage in them. AD has a bunch of technical rock and the fixed lines are far from reliable - recent accidents this year and personally a member of my expedition had a fixed line break on him above camp 1. Fortunately he was backed up on a second line.

Make sure you can climb comfortably in whichever boots you choose.

csproul · · Pittsboro...sort of, NC · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 330

Recommendation: they suck. Do yourself a favor and look into the more current crop of doubles. Spantiks, Barunste, Phantom 6000...I've climbed a bunch in Inverno's and after getting a pair of Spantiks, the difference is night and day. Invernos are clunky and horrible to walk in and while ok for moderate ice, they suck for climbing on rock (which you will be doing on Ama Dablam). My Spantiks excel over my Inverno in virtually every way.

Andy Hansen · · Longmont, CO · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 3,195
Best boots for mtns.

These seem pretty good. Double boots. Double snakes.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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