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Harness: Petzl Sama or Adjama?

Original Post
Luke Utley · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 15

I'm looking at buying a harness and wondered if anyone has any opinions about either the Petzl Sama or Petzl Adjama? Anything would be helpful.

Mike Knight · · Detroit, MI · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 55

I have had the adjama for about three years its still like new and I love it. It has adjustable leg loops for I can use it for pretty much any kind of climbing.

Noah Haber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 78

I'm not sure what kind of "helpful" opinion you are looking for. The two harnesses you listed are identical except for the leg loops (sama fixed, adjama adjustable).

If you think you have a need for adjustable leg loops (weird leg size, might have lots of different layering systems, whatever) get the adjama. If you don't, get the sama. If you don't know, it probably doesn't matter.

Jon Frisby · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 270

I love my Sama but would never trad/alpine/ice climb in it. That's basically the difference

Ken Noyce · · Layton, UT · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 2,648
Luke Utley wrote:I'm looking at buying a harness and wondered if anyone has any opinions about either the Petzl Sama or Petzl Adjama? Anything would be helpful.
They are both good comfortable harnesses, the biggest issue with them is that the rear gear loops suck. If you like to use your rear gear loops frequently i'd get a different harness personally. I use my sama for sport climbing, but if i'm racking up more than just draws i choose one of my other harnesses.
Craig Childre · · Lubbock, TX · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 4,860

If you expect to climb in the cold, where you'll be wearing thicker layers to stay warm. You'll want those adjustable leg loops on the Adjama.

If you rarely climb in those conditions, the fixed leg loops are usually the way to go.

If you are not sure, I would go for the Adjama.

I have both, but only because I picked up an barely used Sama at the flea market with two new quickdraws for $15. SCORE!!!!!

Mark R · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65

I have had a Sama for a few years, picked it up on super sale so no complaints. As others have said, it's fine for sport/TR/indoor but isn't really built for anything else. The lack of adjustable leg loops is annoying and makes it unusable for cold weather or alpine use. I find I get more crotch bulge in it than in my new harness.

Craig Childre · · Lubbock, TX · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 4,860

To address the floppy rear gear loops.

While these loops can be a bit of a pain when you are organizing gear. The stiffer or hardened plastic loops of other harnesses do manage gear better, but if you ever find yourself climbing a chimney section they can be are a real pain. Some avoid such routes, and thus realize no benefit from these floopy rear loops. I like to get on off-widths and chimneys, thus I prefer the flop. All depends on the application.

bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065

i use the old orange sama just fine

one thing ive found is that the lower tie in doesnt last too long, but the newer models have dyneema reinforced points for wear

the rear gear loops are fine for me, i use it for trad and sport

;)

Ken Noyce · · Layton, UT · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 2,648
bearbreeder wrote:i use the old orange sama just fine one thing ive found is that the lower tie in doesnt last too long, but the newer models have dyneema reinforced points for wear the rear gear loops are fine for me, i use it for trad and sport ;)
I'm pretty sure the crapy rear gear loops are a new "feature" not found on the previous models.
bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065
kennoyce wrote: I'm pretty sure the crapy rear gear loops are a new "feature" not found on the previous models.
No the old nylon sama had th same issue

Heres my partner with the old nylon female version ... You can see it has the same well to the back loops

Old style 5.9, malamute, squamish

;)
Ken Noyce · · Layton, UT · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 2,648
bearbreeder wrote: No the old nylon sama had th same issue Heres my partner with the old nylon female version ... You can see it has the same well to the back loops ;)
Okay, i just know the last petzl harness i had prior to the current sama I have didn't have the crapy rear loops, but i bought that thing like 10 years ago so they may have a few iterations of the crapy ones now.
Luke Utley · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 15
bearbreeder wrote:i use the old orange sama just fine one thing ive found is that the lower tie in doesnt last too long, but the newer models have dyneema reinforced points for wear the rear gear loops are fine for me, i use it for trad and sport ;)
How do I know if it's a newer model versus an older model? How can I tell the difference?
Ken Noyce · · Layton, UT · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 2,648
Luke Utley wrote: How do I know if it's a newer model versus an older model? How can I tell the difference?
Just look the harness up on petzl's website, only the current model will be shown. If it is different then you know it's not the current model.
Mike Knight · · Detroit, MI · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 55

goes like this.
the adjama - 3 years old - grey and blue with green belay loop. 2 years old it was black and this year its all blue with grey accents.

the sama - 3 years old. orange and grey with green belay loop. 2 years old - red with greay accents and this year its all orange.

J. Serpico · · Saratoga County, NY · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 140

Personally, I'm a big fan of Wild Country Harnesses. I used to love my Petzl harnesses, but lately, I just don't like them.

I had a corax and my wife a calidris for a long time. Now I have a Calidris and my wife a Syncro Ziplock Elite. The Wild Country is a superior harness. I'll be picking one up for myself as soon as the Calidris dies.

Also, I'm not a real thin guy, but a size 2 Calidris is huge on me. Even in thin winter clothing. May end up being my ice harness only.

Good luck finding Wild Country gear in the US.

doligo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 264

I think it's incorrect to assume that fixed leg loops are good only for sport climbing. I personally prefer fixed leg loops for everything, especially crack climbing when you don't have stupid buckles digging into you or catching on the gear. If you think about your adjustable leg loop harnesses, how many times you have cinched it down or loosened it back up? Not very often (at least I almost never do). The only thing adjustable loops are good for is for taking the harness on and off when you are wearing crampons or skis.

Some people like adjustable loops because they're worried about the fit - for example, skinny waist and athletic big legs. Usually manufacturers list the sizing specifics for the leg loops though, plus the fixed loops usually have a stretchy insert to accommodate our anatomical differences. If you decide getting the fixed loops, make sure to measure your legs and your waist to get it right.

Rob D · · Queens, NY · Joined May 2011 · Points: 30
doligo wrote:I think it's incorrect to assume that fixed leg loops are good only for sport climbing. I personally prefer fixed leg loops for everything, especially crack climbing when you don't have stupid buckles digging into you or catching on the gear. If you think about your adjustable leg loop harnesses, how many times you have cinched it down or loosened it back up? Not very often (at least I almost never do). The only thing adjustable loops are good for is for taking the harness on and off when you are wearing crampons or skis. Some people like adjustable loops because they're worried about the fit - for example, skinny waist and athletic big legs. Usually manufacturers list the sizing specifics for the leg loops though, plus the fixed loops usually have a stretchy insert to accommodate our anatomical differences. If you decide getting the fixed loops, make sure to measure your legs and your waist to get it right.
I agree. I have three harnesses, 2 without and one with adjustable leg loops and I prefer the non adjustable in almost every situation.

I have a sama. Fine for indoor, sport, or light cragging. As everyone else has said the gear loops aren't awesome. That said I think someone whose never had good gear loops would probably have no issue with them, it's just those of us that have had them that complain.
Moritz B. · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 185

The two Petzl harnesses you mentioned are both load-baring webbing harnesses. You should also look into laminated constructions or 3D-Vent harnesses.

bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065
Rob D. wrote: As everyone else has said the gear loops aren't awesome. That said I think someone whose never had good gear loops would probably have no issue with them, it's just those of us that have had them that complain.
ive also owned dead bird, BD, etc ... harnesses ....

i dont have any major issues with the petzl gear loops ...remember that Petzl athletes, including some very good ones, use those petzl loops just fine for trad/alpine/ice

one advantage of those gear loops is that the front ones are farther back than some other harnesses ... which means the front gear hangs farther back on the body, interfering less with the movement when facing the rock ... whether this matters or not is a personal reference

ive used both the "good" gear loops of the BD/dead birds and the "poor" ones of the petzl .... its all a matter of preference and habit ... its not what will make or break a climb for me

For the older nylon samas ... This happens after about 1-1.5 years of daily use

Last gen of the nylon (not dyneema) petzl sama

;)
Ray Pinpillage · · West Egg · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 180
doligo wrote:I think it's incorrect to assume that fixed leg loops are good only for sport climbing. I personally prefer fixed leg loops for everything, especially crack climbing when you don't have stupid buckles digging into you or catching on the gear. If you think about your adjustable leg loop harnesses, how many times you have cinched it down or loosened it back up? Not very often (at least I almost never do). The only thing adjustable loops are good for is for taking the harness on and off when you are wearing crampons or skis. Some people like adjustable loops because they're worried about the fit - for example, skinny waist and athletic big legs. Usually manufacturers list the sizing specifics for the leg loops though, plus the fixed loops usually have a stretchy insert to accommodate our anatomical differences. If you decide getting the fixed loops, make sure to measure your legs and your waist to get it right.
I got rid of all of my adjustable harnesses, including my Petzl Adjama. Short of wearing a down suit, I have no need to adjust the leg loops.

My wife climbs in a new Selena (women's Sama) and loves it. One of the best features is the solid ice clipper slots. My only complaint, one which she does not share, is that the harness only has two clipper provisions. I would buy a new new Sama for myself if it had four clipper slots.

The rear loops are soft so they will lay down under a backpack. This is a common design feature in a lot of harnesses and not unique to Petzl.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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