2014 - 2015 Utah Region Ice

Was in Maple yesterday (obviously not for ice) and saw one small smear forming in the Middle Fork area but can't remember where exactly.

The road, however, has spots which are pure ice at the end of the day. I would have at least 2 out of 3 of the following: snow tires, chains, salt/sand/ice melt just in case uncontrolled sliding occurs.

Dirt sickle is in great shape.

Did anyone have gone again to either Little Cottonwood or Big Cottonwood in the last couple days ?
The temps seems higher than I wish for in the lower elevations. I wonder if there was any chance of more ice been forming lately.

Think we might do a night lap on the Dirtcicle on our way up to Bozeman. Can't find any beta on the anchor. Instead of searching with my headlamp I figured I'd ask. Anyone?

Stephen Berwanger wrote:Think we might do a night lap on the Dirtcicle on our way up to Bozeman. Can't find any beta on the anchor. Instead of searching with my headlamp I figured I'd ask. Anyone?

Anchor is a couple of steel fence posts pounded into the ground at the top (left side) of the climb. If you don't trust the posts, there's a small tree you can also sling for good measure.

Anyone been to Joe's in the last week? Any Ice to climb? May be heading that way Sunday.

Ice was in great condition at Sundial yesterday. Snowshoes were required past Lake Blanche.

The rambling routes (t-rex and deadbolt) appeared to be in. CCC is extremely aerated and getting detached on the edges, up top it is muddy - literally muddy.

Did all of pitch 1, up to tree, and it took screws (no snowconing).

Be gentle if you head there, and bring some long slings to wrap the pillars for pro - 10' slings. Best of luck. In hind site I would have preferred some rock pro to minimize rope drag and keep the rope more directionally oriented.

UDOT will be conducting artillery fire in the Provo Canyon area on Dec 10 2014 between 10am and 1:30pm. Backcountry closures will be in effect for Slide Canyon, Lost Creek, Bridal Veil, and Bunnell's Fork from 12am until 1:30pm Dec 10 2014. This includes all of the ice climbing areas in Provo Canyon from Canyon Glen Park to Vivian Park. Thanks for helping make it possible for us to sight in the artillery.

matt primomo wrote: Thanks for helping make it possible for us to sight in the artillery.

"Honey I'm leaving for work, love you."
"OK sweetie, blow stuff up for me."
"Will do."

matt primomo wrote:UDOT will be conducting artillery fire in the Provo Canyon area on Dec 10 2014 between 10am and 1:30pm. Backcountry closures will be in effect for Slide Canyon, Lost Creek, Bridal Veil, and Bunnell's Fork from 12am until 1:30pm Dec 10 2014. This includes all of the ice climbing areas in Provo Canyon from Canyon Glen Park to Vivian Park. Thanks for helping make it possible for us to sight in the artillery.

Damn shame, the ice is so good right now!

Only show in town right now. Actually dry and solid ice.

Beehive Ice by Nathan Smith and Andrew Burr covers over 775 ice and mixed climbs in Utah. We will have a limited amount of copies at the end of December. The rest will arrive 2-4 weeks later. If you want to ensure you will have a copy from the first delivery, you can go to:
pullpublishing.com/books-1/…
and pre order a copy or get your name on a list at IME or Mountainworks. IME has a preview copy now and Mountainworks will receive theirs soon. 464 pages of climbs, action photos and Utah history. Essays from some of the most prominent Utah climbers and lots of never before published climbs. Now we just need cold!

Anyone have any idea how conditions are in Southern Utah? Cedar City area or Kanaraville? Don't really want to make the drive up from Vegas if nothing is in. Thanks in advance for any info!

Jared Wicks wrote:Anyone have any idea how conditions are in Southern Utah? Cedar City area or Kanaraville? Don't really want to make the drive up from Vegas if nothing is in. Thanks in advance for any info!

Pulling up the forecast...its mid 50's...and has been. I'd say "nope" without having to look.

Its 47F at Alta right now, at 8000 feet. And, we've been breaking records for warmth, with temp's 20F over normal all week.

Rock climb!

Brian in SLC wrote: Pulling up the forecast...its mid 50's...and has been. I'd say "nope" without having to look. Its 47F at Alta right now, at 8000 feet. And, we've been breaking records for warmth, with temp's 20F over normal all week. Rock climb!

Thanks Brian. I'm hoping this system moving in will bring some colder temps with it. Fingers crossed.

Since there is not a whole lot of ice right now it is time to brush up on the technical skills when it does come back. These have probably been posted somewhere else on MP and argued, discussed and cussed. Anyhow, happy reading.

Ice Climbing Anchor Strength: An In Depth Analysis by J. Marc Beverly, BS-EMS, M_PAS, Certified Guide and Stephen W. Attaway, PhD

hmga.gr/storehouse/word-acr…

Single and Half-Rope Impact Forces by Will Gadd

gravsports.blogspot.com/200…

We climbed Frozen in Time up at Sundial Peak yesterday. Great conditions. The ice is dry, solid, and fat. If you don't mind a moderate approach then this might be your ticket til more routes come in. Oh and if you have skis or snowshoes I'd highly recommend them. We post holed waist deep snow from Lake Blanche to the route.