White chalk in Garden of the Gods

I remember when I visited The garden of the gods they were selling those eco chalk socks. I ended up buying one just because I left all my chalk in Georgia, (kinda did this on purpose, because i didn't want to bring a bag full of white powder on the plane, even in a boy scouts uniform). I not gonna lie, you're probably better off using dust and dirt, then the eco chalk. That stuff sucks, but you still shouldn't use normal chalk. It pisses me off when I see chalk on the small climbs around me. I couldn't imagine seeing that at the GOTG. The beautiful color of the rock is one of the things that make it so cool.

Chase Bowman wrote:I remember when I visited The garden of the gods they were selling those eco chalk socks. I ended up buying one just because I left all my chalk in Georgia, (kinda did this on purpose, because i didn't want to bring a bag full of white powder on the plane, even in a boy scouts uniform). I not gonna lie, you're probably better off using dust and dirt, then the eco chalk. That stuff sucks, but you still shouldn't use normal chalk. It pisses me off when I see chalk on the small climbs around me. I couldn't imagine seeing that at the GOTG. The beautiful color of the rock is one of the things that make it so cool.

Now if we can get those damn falcons to poop brown.

There has always been a small amount of chalk on the snakepit boulders since I started climbing there in '93, nothing as bad as the photos posted above since the only problems you really need chalk was on the Mongoose boulder.

I never saw chalk on the Blowouts or in the Slash since it’s mostly shady and the lower Lyons sandstone was porous and sandy enough that chalk was not needed.

Climbers are stupid and need to be reminded sometimes what is right and wrong in the park. Maybe the park needs to be a bit more proactive and put up a small sign on the trail coming in to the snakepit saying that chalk is off limits and folks will start paying attention.

England wrote: Now if we can get those damn falcons to poop brown.

Actually, they need to poop red on North and South Gateway and sort of grey on Grey Rock. Food coloring?

When I look at the flatirons through my window they mostly just look white. I wish climbers could just stop being so stupid and ignorant instead of Capitalizing our native treasures. Next time when you are usurping rare resources think about how much its all really worth.

Chalk is a cheater to climbing I personally think. I never use chalk just like the good ol climbers way back in the day.

Ya lets stop using rubber too and while we're at it we probably shouldn't wear clothes when we climb, maybe we should just not climb on these beautiful rocks since so many gawking, open-walleted tourists love come and look at them. Am I right?

good pro wrote:Ya lets stop using rubber too and while we're at it we probably shouldn't wear clothes when we climb, maybe we should just not climb on these beautiful rocks since so many gawking, open-walleted tourists love come and look at them. Am I right?

Plus we all know Climbers have the Most toxic poo....
poo bags anyone? always carry some of them

Wow, it is a bummer that so many climbers are choosing to be assholes when a park ranger reminds the community of a rule that has been in place for two(?) decades. There are actually a couple of different alternative chalk solutions, including one red variety that works well enough. Come on, guys! Climbing in the Garden isn't some universal right, it can be taken away.

Thank you, GardenoftheGodsStaff for bringing this to the community's attention instead of just tightening regulations. Maybe as a self-regulating group, we can kindly remind others when we see them using white chalk that part of the natural beauty of the place comes from the red rock, and chalk lines really are ugly.

Threaten access, that'll do it.

Again, this subject probably warrants some real dialog between the climbers and staff. I could see an annual meeting or something to air out stuff like this. Just sayin'.

Stich wrote: Actually, they need to poop red on North and South Gateway and sort of grey on Grey Rock. Food coloring?

Think that'll improve the smell? If so, I'm in favor! :-)

As far as the eco chalk, nope, it's not as good. And yep, it does cost more. But those are the rules. The Garden is a super neat place to climb. If slightly-inferior, slightly-expensive chalk is what it takes to preserve access, it doesn't seem like a particularly difficult decision.

PS: Any guesses how long we should wait after yesterday's rain before the rock will be dry for climbing?

Having climbed over 200 days in the Garden I have witnessed areas where chalk is overused. Most areas have a negligible amount of chalk that the majority of washes away during a quick rain. Believe me, I tried exploring some of the less attempted routes and the climbs look new again in a week. I rarely went to the snake pits as I am a weak at bouldering and my wife did not like my attempts to smoke pot with the CC kids that go there. It is very likely that chalk is overused there. I have used white chalk in the garden the majority of times and only occasionally put sand in it and do not feel I have damaged the rock. Climbing after a rain is the real issue. I have witnessed dozens of holds on classic climbs double in size or be removed completely from the climb!

and now after reading a majority of the posts I feel like the pigeon shit white stains are significantly worse than the chalk in most places. I would dare a non climber to point out holds after an august rain from the path/road.

Also, I believe science states that a dry clean microfiber cloth would be better to wipe your hands on a molecular level the chalk acts like marbles and if both the hand and rock were free of all dust/dirt/oils would be optimum friction
sorry for ranting, I managed to get ahold of the CC kids today :-)

As the Garden staff points out, there has been a specific rule against the use of white chalk in the Garden of the Gods since the master plan in 1993. And it has been a problem since then, increasingly so with the increased climbing traffic at GG. Most climbers, even though they sign the release which clearly states the park rules, are unaware that there is a white chalk ban. It's difficult to enforce a white chalk ban since the park rangers really have better things to do. Really a matter of education.

It would be good too if the visitor center sold colored chalk so folks could pick some up when they sign their permit. As of right now neither of the big shops...REI and Mountain Chalet...sell colored chalk, although I understand that Pure Bouldering and Gearonimo are planning to sell it.

That said, it is difficult to find anywhere that sells colored chalk. Google it and the only item that comes up that I can find is Terra Rock Colored Chalk from Terra Firma and their website is down and anywhere that stocks the product lists it as unavailable. Last year I researched making a specific colored chalk that would match the sandstone at both Garden of the Gods and Red Rock Canyon Open Space but didn't have the time to combine and package the ingredients. Maybe that will be a winter project....

That is a cool project Stewart but there is already a solution posted above.
These are the same chalk balls the visitor center sold back in the '90's

Jeff Gicklhorn wrote:Cost effective solution: metoliusclimbing.com/eco_ba…

Maybe some local can step up and donate a bunch of balls to the GOG staff so they can give them out to climbers when they register or the GOG can charge a small fee when climbers register to cover their lack of balls.

It would be interesting to hear why the GOG staff stopped that deal. If no one was buying them then the GOG should make it a requirement to buy one when registering to climb. Self regulation obviously isn't working if the problem is getting worse.

We wanted to address the claim that the chalk washes off after rain- while rain may remove some chalk, it does not do so entirely, nor does it do so uniformly. Chalk on the leeward side of rocks may receive no rain, as will areas of the rock below overhangs. Even if exposed to direct rain, rain may not remove the entire stain- the pictures attached were taken today (10/13), after significant rain 10/9. We also sometimes see periods of weeks or longer between showers, meaning chalk stains (if they were to be removed by rain) would still accumulate/be visible during these times. Regardless, it comes down to a rule that's been in place for decades: white chalk stains the rock, and it is not allowed.

In the last few months we've noted or had complaints (both from climbers and non-climbers) about chalk on numerous popular climbing routes and bouldering areas- this is not a minor issue one or two staff members have taken issue with, but a growing concern amongst numerous staff, volunteers, visitors, and even local climbers we've talked to.

Thanks to those who've responded with enthusiasm, we appreciate your help in protecting our shared resource.

Chalk damage 1b.

Chalk damage 2 b.

Chalk damage 3b.

Chalk damage 4.

goatboy wrote:That is a cool project Stewart but there is already a solution posted above. These are the same chalk balls the visitor center sold back in the '90's Maybe some local can step up and donate a bunch of balls to the GOG staff so they can give them out to climbers when they register or the GOG can charge a small fee when climbers register to cover their lack of balls. It would be interesting to hear why the GOG staff stopped that deal. If no one was buying them then the GOG should make it a requirement to buy one when registering to climb. Self regulation obviously isn't working if the problem is getting worse.

We still have eco-balls for sale at the Visitor and Nature Center- or rather, we were selling them prior to the brief closure for remodeling, and will have them there when it re-opens in November. We've noticed merchandise has been moving a bit as the Visitor and Nature Center undergoes remodeling- we apologize for the inconvenience.

All of the holds pictured have been white for years. I also find it hard to believe local climbers would raise concern about chalked holds, especially those at the snake pits. The chief complaint is obviously the visual cosmetic value of the rocks in the GOG. Why aren't specific routes regulated as no chalk (eg. The ones in plain view of the public trails and walkways.)? The Snake pits is a secluded bouldering area behind tall shrubs and bushes. I don't remember anyone in my past years bouldering there "complaining" about the chalk aside from GOG Rangers and junior Rangers.

I just know local boulderers won't be ditching the white stuff for worse alternatives...

Mean while I'll be 20 minutes uphill from town pasting white chalk on sweet granite lines. Good luck with this.

Alex Hesler wrote:All of the holds pictured have been white for years. I also find it hard to believe local climbers would raise concern about chalked holds, especially those at the snake pits. The chief complaint is obviously the visual cosmetic value of the rocks in the GOG. Why aren't specific routes regulated as no chalk (eg. The ones in plain view of the public trails and walkways.)? The Snake pits is a secluded bouldering area behind tall shrubs and bushes. I don't remember anyone in my past years bouldering there "complaining" about the chalk aside from GOG Rangers and junior Rangers. I just know local boulderers won't be ditching the white stuff for worse alternatives... Mean while I'll be 20 minutes uphill from town pasting white chalk on sweet granite lines. Good luck with this.

Thanks for doing your part to erode a land manager's faith in the climbing community. Is bouldering at a specific V grade really worth creating a potential access issue? As you point out there are other places one can go if chalk is an imperative part of your climbing experience.

Hey, it's just the reality. New climbers all the time. Old stubborn locals who won't change their ways. All using chalk. I never said I wanted to break any of the rules in place, or anyone else to for that matter. That's why I'll be climbing elsewhere...

Anyway if all it takes is stating facts like these and" holds have been white for years" to "erode the faith of a land manager", well, that was easy.

Alex Hesler wrote:Hey, it's just the reality. New climbers all the time. Old stubborn locals who won't change their ways. All using chalk. I never said I wanted to break any of the rules in place, or anyone else to for that matter. That's why I'll be climbing elsewhere... Anyway if all it takes is stating facts like these and" holds have been white for years" to "erode the faith of a land manager", well, that was easy.

Comment fail! Legally you are supposed to register to climb in, "The Garden" so you know the rules...you read(or not) them during registration and choose to ignore them, but signed a paper stating you understood these rules. So if we are, (All using chalk(white)" then you are breaking the rules. By the way nice first posts, it's these type of attitudes that get threads like this started.