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The 2014-2015 Colorado Ice Conditions Thread

phil wortmann · · Colorado Springs, Co. · Joined Feb 2005 · Points: 1,186
Nodin deSaillan wrote:Any fresh eyes/thoughts on TA?
^ I think TA will only get drier until we get a big storm, if even then. Personally, I think it won't come in this year. Maybe Blind Assumption will come in this Spring?

Blind Luck is a great option if neither are in, and will still get you a pitch or two of ice.
Nodin deSaillan · · Boulder · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 80

^^ thanks Phil!
Martha usually forms a bit later--needs more snow melt. Dutchman is probably fun mixed right now--but may not have the snow to make the lower part of the colouir a pleasant approach. I'm headed up there mañana and will report back unless others have been up more recently.

Alexey Dynkin · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 0
Nodin deSaillan wrote:Martha usually forms a bit later--needs more snow melt. Dutchman is probably fun mixed right now--but may not have the snow to make the lower part of the colouir a pleasant approach. I'm headed up there mañana and will report back unless others have been up more recently.
Thanks - will definitely look forward to it! I'm actually looking at heading up not next weekend but the one after, and it looks like we might get a good bit of precip Thursday through Tuesday, so maybe things will shape up by then...
Kevin Craig · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2002 · Points: 325
phil wortmann wrote: ^ I think TA will only get drier until we get a big storm, if even then. Personally, I think it won't come in this year. Maybe Blind Assumption will come in this Spring? Blind Luck is a great option if neither are in, and will still get you a pitch or two of ice.
Haha, yeah, pretty sure Lincoln won't come in this year either darn it. :(

Oh wait, were you serious?
phil wortmann · · Colorado Springs, Co. · Joined Feb 2005 · Points: 1,186

TA has been fat for the last 2 or 3 winters, but in my experience (10 yrs) I've seen it come in about 50% of the time. Maybe I just showed up at the wrong times.

erik wellborn · · manitou springs · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 355

Is Martha in??

Janette · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 230

Erik, don't think so. Looked at it from afar yesterday. Think it needs more snowmelt to form.

England · · Colorado Springs · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 270

the storm is here!

dreed05 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 100

Anyone been up Quandary and had a look at Claimjumper yet?

D Snyder · · Golden, CO · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 60

Climbed the ice at Peacock Pool yesterday. Good fun! The ice was 1/2"-4" thick and mostly in the 1-2" range. I only toprope soloed the flow right above the pool but a nice 2 pitch WI3ish R/X climb could be had above the pool. Bring some stubbies and small trad gear. Water was still running under the ice and the falling snow significantly softened up the surface so be a bit careful - screws probably wouldn't hold much right now. Other climbs in the area: S Face of Mt Lady Washington including Martha are NOT in, only water flowing over there. Things like the Dutchman, and Loft, would be good right now. Meeker flows (west of Darkstar) probably climbable too. Smear and Alexander's climbable but still forming. Window Pain looked "in" WETF that means.

Peacock Pool ice.

Soft and almost too plastic.

Alexey Dynkin · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 0
D. Snyder wrote:Things like the Dutchman, and Loft, would be good right now.
Very interesting...were you actually able to get a visual? Any photos? How is the approach from Chasm Lake, would it be a miserable scree slog or is there actually decent snow cover?

Thanks!@
D Snyder · · Golden, CO · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 60
Alexey Dynkin wrote:were you actually able to get a visual? Any photos? How is the approach from Chasm Lake, would it be a miserable scree slog or is there actually decent snow cover?
No photos. Walked partway around Chasm Lake to see as much of the Dutchman as possible and the approach was all on talus. The couloir itself looked like much of the ascent could be made on snow and ice but I was pretty far away.

The approach up to the Loft looked similar. I've climbed that before and it looks wider than when I climbed it (it averaged about 4-6" thick then). But again, I did not go up to the base this time.

Not sure how much snow fell yesterday but that would of course complicate the approaches. Vague info I know, hope it helps tho.
Alexey Dynkin · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 0
D. Snyder wrote: No photos. Walked partway around Chasm Lake to see as much of the Dutchman as possible and the approach was all on talus. The couloir itself looked like much of the ascent could be made on snow and ice but I was pretty far away. The approach up to the Loft looked similar. I've climbed that before and it looks wider than when I climbed it (it averaged about 4-6" thick then). But again, I did not go up to the base this time. Not sure how much snow fell yesterday but that would of course complicate the approaches. Vague info I know, hope it helps tho.
Thanks! It does help. I'd be going next weekend anyway, so a lot could change.

Glacier Basin webcam shows only minor snow accumulation up on the divide (the Longs one is only showing clouds), but there might be more coming Sunday-Monday.
Nodin deSaillan · · Boulder · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 80
10/10/14.

The Loft, 10/10/14.

Longs and meeker and detail of the loft from Wednesday.
Ryan Vachon · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2005 · Points: 125
seth0687 · · Fort Collins · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 375

Anyone seen Alexander's chimney? I saw the pic from earlier in the thread...anything more recent?

Seth

Nodin deSaillan · · Boulder · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 80

^Alexander's is good to go. The Eighth route, too.

10/10/14.

seth0687 · · Fort Collins · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 375

Thanks Nodin!! Headin out tonight. Hopefully I'll have great news and more beta photos for ya'll.

Cheers!

Nodin deSaillan · · Boulder · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 80

Every pitch was in with plenty of ice on all steps as of Saturday. Chock stone was thin on the face but went nicely. Looked like ice above the fourth pitch to Broadway, too. We rapped after the fourth pitch. Should be good for y'all mañana. Have fun.

Alexey Dynkin · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 0
Nodin deSaillan wrote:Every pitch was in with plenty of ice on all steps as of Saturday. Chock stone was thin on the face but went nicely. Looked like ice above the fourth pitch to Broadway, too. We rapped after the fourth pitch. Should be good for y'all mañana. Have fun.
Sweet! Did you happen to get a look at the Dutchman by any chance?
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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