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Lost in the sun/ Crawford notch

Original Post
oakleaf · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 0

Hi everyone,

I was just wondering who out there has done this climb and if you've done it how was it as far as difficulty? My buddy and I climbed the standard route a few weeks ago and didn't have any problems with the climb, the only part I found even remotely challenging was the pitch above the lunch ledge where I think we did the slabs direct variation where you have to clip the bolt and traverse a little left on the polished area then head on up to the tree belay. Not sure if I'm at all accurate with that description but I've looked at the route on northconwayrockclimbs.com and if you look at the picture of the standard route we climbed the black route right above lunch ledge. Hopefully someone out there has some idea of what I'm talking about. Anyways back to the topic at hand to anyone that has climbed both of these routes how does lost in the sun stack up against standard route as far as enjoyment and difficulty? Thanks to anyone out there that took the time to read this topic and weigh in.

Peace

Jason Antin · · Golden, CO · Joined May 2009 · Points: 1,375
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grubbers · · West Shore · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 0

Fun route, rappelling 7 pitches is a bit of a pain in the ass. It won't be difficult if you are comfortable with slab climbing. I did the route just to the right of Lost in the Sun (A Bit Short maybe?) and placed no more than 15 pieces of pro, including clipping bolts, across all 7 pitches. There are bolts or gear placements in the few spots where you'd want them, the rest of the climb you can just run out because it's quite easy.

Nick Goldsmith · · Pomfret VT · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 440

just like roofing but you don't get paied...

a beach · · northeast · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 426

This might be a little late but,

I went up some combination of lost in the sun and a bit short a week or so ago and thought it was a blast. You can pretty much romp from the base and pick your own line between bolted anchors. We inadvertently ended up on a bit short, if you want to stay 5.5 then make sure you stay left. Definitely bring a puffy jacket for the belays and maybe a windbreaker.

Have fun,

Adam

Travis Dustin · · Mexico Maine · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 1,665

Really fun climb in a great spot! As far as climbing goes I think it is easier than standared route on whitehorse. Pitch 2 and 3 are 5.5 and the rest is easier. I think finding the approach trail is the hardest part.

On top of pitch 7

Travis Dustin · · Mexico Maine · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 1,665

One of the anchors is broken off on top of pitch 2. There are some 10-15 feet to the right

broken anchor on top of 2nd pitch

Mark NH · · 03053 · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 0

There's actually an undocumented climb between Lost in the Sun and A Bit Short. In fact if you follow directions for Lost you'll probably wind up doing the first two pitches of this route.

If you want Lost - it's the lower of the first two bolted belays on the left. Then straight up for the second pitch. If you climb to the higher of the belays you're on the undocumented route. The second pitch is a nice bolted slab and is the crux at 5.6 and which I thought the crux moves were run out from the last bolt. This pitch ends on the same ledge as the Lost pitch. It's actually got two belays with the Lost belay missing a bolt from rockfall (Travis's pics weren't posted when I initially replied).

Haven't done the rest of the undocumented route but I have the beta and it sounds like fun and will go back and do some day.

Approach trail is well marked. Park at Willey's Slide, walk across to birch trees, cross river and you can't miss the trail.

Russ Keane · · Salt Lake · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 392

I haven't done these - but I have done a climb on Mt. Willard (across the way) and those are great!

oakleaf · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 0

Hey everyone thanks for the info. My buddy and I went up to do the route weekend before last and didn't even make it to the base. We followed the directions to park at the willey's slide parking lot cross the bridge then we tried to find a trail and ended up basically doing the most heinous bushwhacking adventure I've ever been on. We ended up popping out onto the huge rock slide about 1/2 up the slide which was about 1/3 to 1/2 up the slabs themselves. My friend and I decided to turn back it was a very hard decision to make but my buddy didn't feel too comfortable crossing the slide it's a little sketchy and to be honest with you we didn't really have any idea of where we where. I want to hit it up this season for sure but doing a little more research about the climb I guess the best way to find it is to park at the willey slide pull off a little ways down the road and go directly uphill instead of up and way left where we went way up and a little left. Can any of you that has been there back me up on that info? I also read something about getting on the rail road tracks but aren't they on the other side of the road?

Ron Birk · · Boston, MA · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 4,263

I park at the Willies Slide pullout, crossing the river right away and then following the river for a couple of minutes. You will cross a small/tiny stream and continue basically in the same direction (not uphill), and the trail starts pretty soon after the small stream crossing. Little later the trail starts working its way uphill and will later turn into a rock/boulder slide (20 feet wide maybe). You follow that slide until the base of the slab.

Mark NH · · 03053 · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 0

Oakleaf,

Sorry to hear about your misadventure. Not sure what happened to you as even the first time I did the route years ago I had no trouble finding the trail.

You park at Willey's Slide (I usually park on the slide side which is southbound 302), look further south down 302 not too far and there is a very evident group of birch trees. Cross the road and find a good spot to cross the river, look for a beaten path that follows the river a bit, cross another small stream crossing (can have water or not) and then you'll see the trail for sure. I can't remember but it might have some surveyors tape too. Follow this which trends uphill until you come to a a scree gully which leads right to the base.

Just saw RB's post - at least we're giving you the same beta!

Travis Dustin · · Mexico Maine · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 1,665

I have a hard time finding the trail also. It took me 4 attempts to climb this route. The 1st time I found it but had to bail on the 2nd pitch due to my partner not feeling well. The 2nd time came from a diferent approach to tr to avoid the epic bushwhack and ended up on the slab with bore tide, so we climbed that. The 3rd time got in the wrong rock slide and followed that to the top and explored the upper cliffs, (which are horrible rock). The fourth time we found the right climb climb and finally sent it. Coming from the willey house it is a crazy bushwhack. coming from the williey slide parking i think i never went far enough down the river before heading up, but that way seems like a better way to go if you can find the right trail. Good luck, its a great climb in a wonderful spot.

Mark NH · · 03053 · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 0

Damn Travis I can't imagine what the thrash would be like if you park at the Willey House parking area! Glad you finally got up it. Don't feel bad - I actually got hosed on it a couple times due to wet rock - which I don't like wet slabs no matter how easy!

Travis Dustin · · Mexico Maine · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 1,665

Yeah its a wild thrash going up that way. insanly thick woods with rock slides thrown in for fun. Its an adventure up there.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
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