Lost in the sun/ Crawford notch
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Hi everyone, |
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Fun route, rappelling 7 pitches is a bit of a pain in the ass. It won't be difficult if you are comfortable with slab climbing. I did the route just to the right of Lost in the Sun (A Bit Short maybe?) and placed no more than 15 pieces of pro, including clipping bolts, across all 7 pitches. There are bolts or gear placements in the few spots where you'd want them, the rest of the climb you can just run out because it's quite easy. |
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just like roofing but you don't get paied... |
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This might be a little late but, |
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Really fun climb in a great spot! As far as climbing goes I think it is easier than standared route on whitehorse. Pitch 2 and 3 are 5.5 and the rest is easier. I think finding the approach trail is the hardest part. |
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One of the anchors is broken off on top of pitch 2. There are some 10-15 feet to the right |
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There's actually an undocumented climb between Lost in the Sun and A Bit Short. In fact if you follow directions for Lost you'll probably wind up doing the first two pitches of this route. |
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I haven't done these - but I have done a climb on Mt. Willard (across the way) and those are great! |
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Hey everyone thanks for the info. My buddy and I went up to do the route weekend before last and didn't even make it to the base. We followed the directions to park at the willey's slide parking lot cross the bridge then we tried to find a trail and ended up basically doing the most heinous bushwhacking adventure I've ever been on. We ended up popping out onto the huge rock slide about 1/2 up the slide which was about 1/3 to 1/2 up the slabs themselves. My friend and I decided to turn back it was a very hard decision to make but my buddy didn't feel too comfortable crossing the slide it's a little sketchy and to be honest with you we didn't really have any idea of where we where. I want to hit it up this season for sure but doing a little more research about the climb I guess the best way to find it is to park at the willey slide pull off a little ways down the road and go directly uphill instead of up and way left where we went way up and a little left. Can any of you that has been there back me up on that info? I also read something about getting on the rail road tracks but aren't they on the other side of the road? |
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I park at the Willies Slide pullout, crossing the river right away and then following the river for a couple of minutes. You will cross a small/tiny stream and continue basically in the same direction (not uphill), and the trail starts pretty soon after the small stream crossing. Little later the trail starts working its way uphill and will later turn into a rock/boulder slide (20 feet wide maybe). You follow that slide until the base of the slab. |
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Oakleaf, |
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I have a hard time finding the trail also. It took me 4 attempts to climb this route. The 1st time I found it but had to bail on the 2nd pitch due to my partner not feeling well. The 2nd time came from a diferent approach to tr to avoid the epic bushwhack and ended up on the slab with bore tide, so we climbed that. The 3rd time got in the wrong rock slide and followed that to the top and explored the upper cliffs, (which are horrible rock). The fourth time we found the right climb climb and finally sent it. Coming from the willey house it is a crazy bushwhack. coming from the williey slide parking i think i never went far enough down the river before heading up, but that way seems like a better way to go if you can find the right trail. Good luck, its a great climb in a wonderful spot. |
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Damn Travis I can't imagine what the thrash would be like if you park at the Willey House parking area! Glad you finally got up it. Don't feel bad - I actually got hosed on it a couple times due to wet rock - which I don't like wet slabs no matter how easy! |
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Yeah its a wild thrash going up that way. insanly thick woods with rock slides thrown in for fun. Its an adventure up there. |